Crank Case Inspection
- Thread starter Pushrod Twin
- Start date
Check-out the vincent.com. Big Sid and his mates have written some most useful articles on motor "works". As your gearbox has fixed mountings I assume you are running a belt drive?
And you have to do it soon. Please. Having such an inspection list would be very timely, at least for me. You're guaranteed that at least one person is looking forward to it. And, please don't let the urge to wait until you have created a perfect inspection list deter you from publishing drafts along the way (to which other people can contribute).
Thank you to who ever actioned my request to remove the duplicate picture.
Interesting comments regarding cam bushes. I recently purchased a set of Mk III cams & wheels from Gary Robinson & am not about to disturb his bushes. However, when I start into the Series B set I will review that.
It appears that I will need to look more closely at the idler boss, thank you David. The fact that I have a pre- Series D boss in die cast cases is more confirmation that they are C cases.
Bruce, Vibrac, standard chain & tensioner, I will put up pics of that shortly, be patient!
When i started this there were no belts available which would drive a electrical power generation device in the standard position. Since then there have been a bunch of other solutions with little alternators belt driven back into the primary drive area & recently the device in the magneto position generating electricity & sparks I think from Germany?
Here it is with my version of G50 fitted with hollow dowels around 2 of the through bolts.
. It is 1/2" rather than the original 5/16"? because that was what was lying around the military aviation organisation I was part of & the sheet had to be disposed of because it was water damaged & not suitable for aircraft use, too bad!
Interesting comments regarding cam bushes. I recently purchased a set of Mk III cams & wheels from Gary Robinson & am not about to disturb his bushes. However, when I start into the Series B set I will review that.
It appears that I will need to look more closely at the idler boss, thank you David. The fact that I have a pre- Series D boss in die cast cases is more confirmation that they are C cases.
Bruce, Vibrac, standard chain & tensioner, I will put up pics of that shortly, be patient!
When i started this there were no belts available which would drive a electrical power generation device in the standard position. Since then there have been a bunch of other solutions with little alternators belt driven back into the primary drive area & recently the device in the magneto position generating electricity & sparks I think from Germany?Here it is with my version of G50 fitted with hollow dowels around 2 of the through bolts.
Attachments
Davidd, Is there an easy way to tell which is a D muff ?, Cheers Bill.
Ok, should start this weekend, the alternator drive is almost complete, shaft is made, just need to key it & broach the sprocket boss. Then strip the cases & start with a big scrub followed by a warm up to remove the mains bearings. Then the checking & measuring, will keep you posted.
Just put your fingers on the fins and push.
Whoops wrong button
I looked at the barrels from my engine, the fins left impressions in my fingers when I pushed on the muffs so they must be the better quality ones. They also give the visual impression of being sand cast.
I have pondered the possibility of popping the liners out of the muffs for inspection, but am I being paranoid? The liners appear to be new, they are unmarked & standard bore.
I once honed a barrel assembly for a friends Comet, until I felt the liner turn in the muff! I had scribed a line to indicate the oil hole. When I dropped the muff off in the oven I discovered 3 variable bore diameters, none were concentric with the others, & none were round! It was a one father/son owner bike which had reputedly never been apart previously so the muff boring was presumably factory done. I honed the muff true & nickel plated the liner to get the interference back & although the bike does not do big miles, has never been apart since to my knowledge.
Another interesting thing arose from that, while being helped with the reassembly by much more experienced Vincent experts, it was spotted that the cylinder oil hole was 180 degrees out! It was suggested, of course, that I had assembled it thus, but I pointed to my scribed index mark & so the conclusion was reached that it had been assembled from new with the oil hole on the wrong side & went back together like that again! Just to maintain originality of course!
I have seen pictures of CNC machined, from billet, muffs, are the skirts integral, ie, muff & cylinder one piece of material, with nikasil coating? As a long time Guzzi owner I am a fan of this idea.
When resurrecting a pair of cut cases originality is not a high priority, well non existent really.
The 2 major design criteria for this case rectification were;1, maintain factory dimensions & have enough structural integrity that the engine could be used in a "standard" Egli dimensioned frame or Vincent frame components, (no need for a Norton loop frame)
& 2, have an oil tight chain case with a "standard looking" cover over it.
Here is the result;
They also give the visual impression of being sand cast.I have pondered the possibility of popping the liners out of the muffs for inspection, but am I being paranoid? The liners appear to be new, they are unmarked & standard bore.
I once honed a barrel assembly for a friends Comet, until I felt the liner turn in the muff! I had scribed a line to indicate the oil hole. When I dropped the muff off in the oven I discovered 3 variable bore diameters, none were concentric with the others, & none were round! It was a one father/son owner bike which had reputedly never been apart previously so the muff boring was presumably factory done. I honed the muff true & nickel plated the liner to get the interference back & although the bike does not do big miles, has never been apart since to my knowledge.
Another interesting thing arose from that, while being helped with the reassembly by much more experienced Vincent experts, it was spotted that the cylinder oil hole was 180 degrees out! It was suggested, of course, that I had assembled it thus, but I pointed to my scribed index mark & so the conclusion was reached that it had been assembled from new with the oil hole on the wrong side & went back together like that again! Just to maintain originality of course!
I have seen pictures of CNC machined, from billet, muffs, are the skirts integral, ie, muff & cylinder one piece of material, with nikasil coating? As a long time Guzzi owner I am a fan of this idea.
When resurrecting a pair of cut cases originality is not a high priority, well non existent really.
The 2 major design criteria for this case rectification were;1, maintain factory dimensions & have enough structural integrity that the engine could be used in a "standard" Egli dimensioned frame or Vincent frame components, (no need for a Norton loop frame)
& 2, have an oil tight chain case with a "standard looking" cover over it.
Here is the result;