Here are a couple of pics of what I refer to as the "rear engine plate" complete with the "LH Norton box plate" dowelled & screwed to it then screwed to the back of the cases
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Crank Case Inspection
- Thread starter Pushrod Twin
- Start date
Oh? Why is that Trev, I dont recall reading about problematic idler bosses, and, is there another type? Does the alloy boss expand & loosen the spindle?
I did look fleetingly into the stud farm last night & think that there were a bunch of questions to answer, as well as the obvious & oft discussed looseness of spindles. For an eggsample; which way should the cam spindle oilways point, is their mis-orientation an indication of unsolicited rotation? I know there is plenty written on the subject of breather spindles, I will swat up on that.
Amongst my inspection criteria I will need to ascertain whether the problem of Series D pushrod tube seats applies to C die cast cases & how does one tell? Is it a simple case of turning up a mandrel to fit through the pushrod hole in the head & gauge alignment from where it settles? Mine certainly has casting porosities in the front inlet which I would prefer to remedy with some epoxy such as metalset, but if there is a need to machine & sleeve to re-align, so be it.
Other visual inspections will include a thorough flush of oil ways & confirmation of their efficiency after the barrel studs are fitted.
Here is how it looks with the AMC Gearbox tucked into the LH plate with its locating dowels.
I did look fleetingly into the stud farm last night & think that there were a bunch of questions to answer, as well as the obvious & oft discussed looseness of spindles. For an eggsample; which way should the cam spindle oilways point, is their mis-orientation an indication of unsolicited rotation? I know there is plenty written on the subject of breather spindles, I will swat up on that.
Amongst my inspection criteria I will need to ascertain whether the problem of Series D pushrod tube seats applies to C die cast cases & how does one tell? Is it a simple case of turning up a mandrel to fit through the pushrod hole in the head & gauge alignment from where it settles? Mine certainly has casting porosities in the front inlet which I would prefer to remedy with some epoxy such as metalset, but if there is a need to machine & sleeve to re-align, so be it.
Other visual inspections will include a thorough flush of oil ways & confirmation of their efficiency after the barrel studs are fitted.
Here is how it looks with the AMC Gearbox tucked into the LH plate with its locating dowels.
Bother! I tried to delete the second showing of the gearbox but obviously failed. I should stick to machining, not fafing around with computers! Anybody with the skills who can make the duplicate picture go away is welcome, thanks.
Roy
Roy
Regarding oil holes in the cam spindles; I always face these downwards, pointing away from the middle of the thrust of the two cam followers and pushrods. My reasoning is that if there is any play then it will show up as a slight gap at the bottom into which the low pressure oil feed can obtain entry. Then the rotation of the cam will drag that oil around to the top face where it will do most good. I also always use an extra oilite bush in the long cam as if only the standard two short ones are used then there is always a part of the spindle which remains unworn, contributes nothing to the support of the cam and one ends up with the outer part of the cam spindle worn away. Just my ideas!
The late, great Bert Weisz would put two(?) extra bushes in the middle of the long cam with larger IDs to keep the outer bushes from walking in and allowing the cam to snap, which happened to Glenn Shriver once.
Pushrod, you may have addressed this here already, but how will you adjust the primary chain?
Pushrod, you may have addressed this here already, but how will you adjust the primary chain?
I'm not sure I understand. Why use larger I.D.s for the centre bushes when if one uses the same as the two end ones the camshaft is supported along its whole length. Is there a worry about friction? Oilite bushes are cheap if one buys them from the original manufacturers/suppliers and I keep a stock of long ones which is what I use in the middle of the long camshaft so that there are no gaps and nothing can move inwards.
My Guess is he has joined the great Belt revolution.
Yes, the alloy base will release the spindle. This was fixed on the Series D, which had a one piece boss and spindle, but these are hard to find now. Unless others have had a bad experience, I believe the currently available two piece bosses are just fine. I have run Maughan ones with no problems. The boss material and the fits are the key. In this vein, I was told many years ago that the original Series D die cast muffs are doorstops. The aluminum alloy is not sufficiently resilient to keep an interference fit with the liner.
David