Ok, with mk 3's you are not building a hot-rod. I guess the bottom line is, the more effort you put in, the more it will return in use. Be lucky, Roy.
Crank Case Inspection
- Thread starter Pushrod Twin
- Start date
I see in TASL that ET234 oil restrictor discs are optional. How does one know if they are required? Run the engine with them fitted until something squeaks then remove them, or run without them watch for smoke??
Lots of metal removed but still little access for a socket.
First you will have to work out how to achieve concentricity on a laser machine. Pity you`re not here, half an hour on the mill, and I could have all three gears done. Hard ? , No problem. Without removing the cams also.Good thinking Batman! I can have that done over in the Fabrication side of the general engineering works, where I am these days, for nix, I am sure the lads who run the cutter would do that for me. But I wont meddle with my nice new cams wheels & MK III's from Gary Robinson.
Thanks for the offer Trev, maybe for the next engine I could post them to you? I know PEI recommended lightening valve trains, in M/C Engineering, to reduce inertia & I do see the benefit. ....................
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Meanwhile, on the mains bearing repair sleeve front; I assembled the bearing "cartridge" per the Good Professor's instructions, then went a step further & assembled the cartridge onto the mains spindle to check clearance with the big end nut, then the ESA to check for clearance between the sprocket & sleeve nut.
I first assembled the 3/4" wide ET92FW inboard bearing ring into the sleeve knowing that the radius was probably different to that which was recommended, which meant that it would sit differently in the sleeve. There was only .5mm, not the 1mm, from the sleeve face to the bearing ring face. Then I made & fitted ET19, bearing spacer/labyrinth outer, to account for the extra bearing ring width & its position, then fitted a polished down E91 ball race & screwed in the locking nut. I measured between the flanges & confirmed the dimension is the same as the machined crank case boss width. I made a dummy ET92FW inner bearing at .7500" to represent the inner bearing ring on the spindle & slipped it onto the crank ahead of ET77, distance piece/ inner labyrinth, then slid the cartridge onto the spindle. Only .012" between he sleeve & BE nut, I hope the crank needs to be moved inwards to centralise the rods! Fortuitously, there is room to move that way, there is a couple of mm between the sprocket & sleeve nut.
I first assembled the 3/4" wide ET92FW inboard bearing ring into the sleeve knowing that the radius was probably different to that which was recommended, which meant that it would sit differently in the sleeve. There was only .5mm, not the 1mm, from the sleeve face to the bearing ring face. Then I made & fitted ET19, bearing spacer/labyrinth outer, to account for the extra bearing ring width & its position, then fitted a polished down E91 ball race & screwed in the locking nut. I measured between the flanges & confirmed the dimension is the same as the machined crank case boss width. I made a dummy ET92FW inner bearing at .7500" to represent the inner bearing ring on the spindle & slipped it onto the crank ahead of ET77, distance piece/ inner labyrinth, then slid the cartridge onto the spindle. Only .012" between he sleeve & BE nut, I hope the crank needs to be moved inwards to centralise the rods! Fortuitously, there is room to move that way, there is a couple of mm between the sprocket & sleeve nut
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Lightened flywheels discussion moved to new thread:
http://www.vincentownersclub.co.uk/index.php?threads/lightened-flywheels.7322/
http://www.vincentownersclub.co.uk/index.php?threads/lightened-flywheels.7322/
I feel this thread is drawing to a close. A week ago I set up the cases & bored & faced the cylinder registers, or bored & decked the barrel throats, if you prefer that terminology. When that was complete I set the timing side crank case half on the mill table, clocked on the mains bearing bore, set the timing cover on with dowels & a couple of screws, then clocked the quill bore. It was only .005" out so I measured the new quill to spindle bore clearance which was .010" I decided that there was enough clearance in the quill thread that it might touch or not touch & .005" was not worth rectifying.
So the inspection phase is well behind us & the machining rectification is complete. There are 4 rings to machine for the pushrod O rings but I regard them as other components, not crank case.
The next phase is assembly, mains bearings & stud farm spindles first, I am waiting for spindles to arrive from V3, followed by engine assembly proper.
I understand that the spindles can be assembled 1 at a time with sleeves over them to set the heights, or all together fitted to a plate. What is regarded as best practice?
When that was complete I set the timing side crank case half on the mill table, clocked on the mains bearing bore, set the timing cover on with dowels & a couple of screws, then clocked the quill bore. It was only .005" out so I measured the new quill to spindle bore clearance which was .010" I decided that there was enough clearance in the quill thread that it might touch or not touch & .005" was not worth rectifying.So the inspection phase is well behind us & the machining rectification is complete. There are 4 rings to machine for the pushrod O rings but I regard them as other components, not crank case.
The next phase is assembly, mains bearings & stud farm spindles first, I am waiting for spindles to arrive from V3, followed by engine assembly proper.
I understand that the spindles can be assembled 1 at a time with sleeves over them to set the heights, or all together fitted to a plate. What is regarded as best practice?
Hi PT,
Nice job! I am faced with a similar task of boring the cylinder registers; so I was curious to know how you determined that the centre of the cylinder register was aligned with the centre-line of the crank?
Peter B
Bristol, UK.
STILL WANTED: Series 'A' Front Frame.
Nice job! I am faced with a similar task of boring the cylinder registers; so I was curious to know how you determined that the centre of the cylinder register was aligned with the centre-line of the crank?
Peter B
Bristol, UK.
STILL WANTED: Series 'A' Front Frame.
At the end of the day, the height of the three ET 162 Hollow spacers dictate the overall height of the steady plate. If the spindle heights mismatch this height when each is correctly shimmed, the steady plate will buckle along it's length, and load the spindles badly. I generally use the two new camshafts to set up the cam spindle depths whilst using the correct shim washers, and allowing a clearance gap of say 0.005 thou end float. I guess a jig that allowed assembly of all the spindles would be nice, but our 65 plus year old engines are not factory new anymore. So I generally install one at a time, using tubular sleeves as required to set up the depths. Once you have the spindles installed, you can set about shimming each follower over each individual cam lobe, ensuring that the face of the follower covers the width of each lobe accurately. You need to do this BEFORE pressing on the cam pinions, so you can easily see what you are doing. This sounds easy, but needs a good variety of shim thicknesses, using good quality hard shim washers, I do not like using stainless ones, as I feel they are too soft, and will tend to cup around the ends of the spindles once the steady plate retaining nuts are fully tightened. Do not be afraid to even take a small bit off the inner ends of the followers with a grinder, if you struggle to align it with the matching lobes, this applies to the spacer tubes as well, and you may find it useful to use whatever AN or British aircraft washers as shims, as these are extremely good quality and come in two thicknesses or more. Pay good attention to setting up the front exhaust follower with the screw in spindle ET 30/3 and shim it as previously described, you may need a small smear of grease to hold the shim washers from falling away. I strongly recommend you install the modified ET 169 feral which uses a valve stem seal arrangement to seal the decompressor rod ET 165 AS where it passes into the timing chest. This is available as a kit, and needs to be installed before you assemble too much in the timing chest, least you pull it all apart again. We can discuss more as you progress through the assembly stage. The throughstuds do need an amount of attention to get the lengths correct, and to seal the necessary ones to avoid annoying oil leaks....this is quite important, Cheers for now........Greg.