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E: Engine Comet Mongrel


Chris Launders

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I have also previously converted an AMC box to the Dollshead/Laydown/Manx worm type lifter which is even lighter, it requires another cable boss welding on the housing but inside all that is required is to turn the OD of the brass worm outer until it fits in the roller/pillar retaining ring and braze Iit into the ring and make a spacer to replace the roller/pillar flange. Look at a Laydown or Manx box as to where the new cable boss wants to be.

As to oil on the clutch that's what I've been suffering from with my Atlas just now, it has a Commando clutch and belt drive and has been getting gear oil on the plates which then stick together making gearchanges horrible, last night I attempted my own seal solution (being from Yorkshire I hate spending when I don't have to)

So I got a spare clutch nut and brazed a washer on with a 1/4" clearance hole in it, got a piece of 1/4" rubber and punched a 1/4" hole in it (of course being rubber the hole is smaller than 1/4") trimmed this until it fitted the nut and then fitted to the mainshaft end with Loctite so it was just nipping the rubber, the future will tell whether this has worked, if not I shall have to buy one, Norvil do them for the Commando and Dommi as they're not the same.
 
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Oldhaven

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
British Cycle supply has the clutch pushrod seal and I will be using one from them on my project. They ship this part out of Canada even though their main warehouse is at Limestone in Maine. That may help you with shipping.
This page has a lot of good information about its use, though I see Martyn has already referenced it.

And thanks for the good information on the lifter lever since I know what to look for if my lever effort is too much. I am also using a Commando gearbox that had a diaphragm clutch with a Newby clutch.
 
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Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I seem to have strayed onto a Norton Forum. I'll get the hang of computers one day. Cheers, Stu.
Consider yourself lucky you have been spared most of the frame discussions. You would need to poke the unwatch button or risk ocular trauma.

I did wonder about this thread belonging in the everything else section, but this thing started innocently enough when I mumbled something to Robert about having a set of cases and two crank halves. He offered me a crank pin for cheap and the rest is history. I now suspect he was setting me up.
 
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Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
British Cycle supply has the clutch pushrod seal and I will be using one from them on my project. They ship this part out of Canada even though their main warehouse is at Limestone in Maine. That may help you with shipping.
This page has a lot of good information about its use, though I see Martyn has already referenced it.

And thanks for the good information on the lifter lever since I know what to look for if my lever effort is too much. I am also using a Commando gearbox that had a diaphragm clutch with a Newby clutch.
I've been wondering about one of those pushrod seals. I don't currently have much room between the end of the mainshaft and the Newby adjuster. The pushrod doesn't have a lot of stickout. I could shim the clutch out if necessary, but may just take a stab at making a seal holder. There is already a shim in there because the hub doesn't sit all the way home on the splines. I could PM you a photo so as not to cause any of that ocular trauma I was referring to. Do they have a smartass emoji?
 

Oldhaven

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I just measured mine and the BCS seal will add .100" to the end of the mainshaft, so if you have 1/8" of rod stickout you are OK.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I dont get this push rod seal angle
I have used a lot of amc (dommie) boxes many on belt drives and some not in the prime of life I have yet to see anything coming out of the push rod ole onto the clutch'
NB on some instalations I have added a new entry point for the clutch cable as the bottom of the F106 tie got in the way of a nice run fortunately the Norton lever swivels to align

26999
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I called BCS and ordered the seal. Bugs me to buy stuff I can make, but want to ride this eyesore. Thought about PM ing Stu a frame photo with the vin tag clearly displayed and see if I could turn him into a pillar of salt.
They also have the Atlas/Dommi lever 04-0029
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I dont get this push rod seal angle
Before I knew there was a seal kit available, I wondered if anything would find its way through there. I don't recall any issues with the other Nortons, but they were either wet clutch or a dolls head with dry clutch that was unlikely to build any pressure. There seems to be lots of chatter on the inter webs about them and seems like its relatively common. I was just going to run it as is, but ordered the kit just to avoid any further drama in the clutch releasing department.
 

Chris Launders

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I've never had an issue of oil leaking out into the clutch and creating a problem before, but I have now, and I've only been using it 35 years !!
Perhaps it's because I've stopped it all leaking out fairly rapidly, it didn't happen until about 500 miles after I rebuilt the box.
A friend of mine just suggested machining the end of the shaft to take a valve stem oil seal of the right size.
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I suppose the other thing is size matters. On the BCS site it states: " It has been reported that after market clutch rods are being repoped in 1/4" material. The original factory rods are 6mm. The seal is designed for 6mm rods only."

I have 1/4" rod in there now, but have some not quite 6mm, but close lying around. Could anneal the 1/4 and turn it down so the seal has a nice surface to do its job.

Anyway the point being maybe 1/4 instead 6mm cuts down on the oil getting through in some cases?
 

Oldhaven

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
NB on some instalations I have added a new entry point for the clutch cable as the bottom of the F106 tie got in the way of a nice run fortunately the Norton lever swivels to align
Vibrac,
Don't I recall that you didn't weld that new cable entry, but used some sort of metal epoxy to put a new bit on? I have the same problem.
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Tim Kirker had to do something similar with his Seeley. I looked through the five articles in Whitakerpedia, but didn't find any details. Maybe in 10YO?

Edit: Page 293 of 40YO.
 
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vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Vibrac,
Don't I recall that you didn't weld that new cable entry, but used some sort of metal epoxy to put a new bit on? I have the same problem.
Yep Ben used that alloy soldering stick a small piece of alloy gnd a gas can burner I thought he was mad but he had patience kept it all clean then it suddenly flows and makes a fine job I won't say he is mad again after it was done he happily drilled and tapped a hole for the cable
 

ericg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
At least we aren't having to endure talk about H(no R)Ds.
But still some Japanese stuff though!
Anyway, if you add a plain plate to your Commando clutch basket it will improve operation dramatically. It's a well known trick.
Eric
 

Bill Cannon

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
But still some Japanese stuff though!
Anyway, if you add a plain plate to your Commando clutch basket it will improve operation dramatically. It's a well known trick.
Eric
Yes I did that recently to mine and it made a significant difference.
Bill
 

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