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E: Engine Comet Mongrel


Chris Launders

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VOC Member
Yes, the diaphragm spring wants to be pretty much flat, not dished in much, they do different thickness pressure plates to help with this but I too have an extra plain plate in.
 

Bill Cannon

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VOC Member
Yes, the diaphragm spring wants to be pretty much flat, not dished in much, they do different thickness pressure plates to help with this but I too have an extra plain plate in.
I also made a thin shim of the appropriate diameter to place under the diaphragm retaining circlip to take up any excess play in the plate stack.
Bill
 

Jez Nemeth

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VOC Member
Also playing with clutches on my Comet, leaning towards a commando one, and minor dremelling. Just going back a bit on the thread about gearbox oil leakage onto plates -Not have thought an awful lot of pressure in these old boxes, even when fully sealed with modern gasket sealants, oil weep is much less likely to occur along the rod providing the tiny breather hole in the inspection cap is clear, certainly the case using an AMC box, Atlas unit. Presume Burman would have a similar small easily blocked little breather hole. No need for sealed nut if wear is within tolerances -Easily overlooked, but cheaply sorted with a 1p paperclip!
 
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Cyborg

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VOC Member
Got the "seal" and lifter in the mail today. Definitely less lift and more linear, so will make life easier.

Special thanks to Genedn for donating a pipe to the cause. Just need to modify it and well in the sensor bung.

Clutch lifter arm.jpgM:S seal.jpgM:S Seal 2.jpg
 

Chris Launders

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VOC Member
I have one of the seals on my Norvin but have been having oil ingress problems on my Dominators belt drive Commando clutch and didn't want to pay the price this time, so I made my own, a standard nut with a washer having a 1/4 clearance hole brazed on concentrically, then cut a 1/4" thick rubber disc to fit inside the nut and punched a 1/4 hole in it (which always comes out smaller, then Loctited the nut onto the shaft just nipping the rubber, 200 miles so far and no leakage, a friend then suggested turning the end of the shaft and fitting a suitable size valve stem oil seal !!
Another useful trick with the Norton box, Araldite a suitable size Dowty seal on the end of the sleeve gear where the mainshaft emerges, the one I've used still allows the sprocket to come off over it.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
I have a lathe and a drawer full of seals/O-rings/etc , so no excuse for not making my own... other than I want to get this thing finished and ride it before I croak. I have a spare clutch arm too, so should have just ground one down. My grandfather who came from the Isle of Lewis is probably turning in his grave.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
Installed the lifter arm and it reduced the effort by a substantial amount. Total lift went from .143" to .080". That is still way more than necessary, so the ramp could be modified to reduce effort further as I slowly biodegrade.... but all good for now.

Clutch pressure plate travel.jpg
 
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Black Flash

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VOC Member
Hello cyborg,
I have a similar problem with my Norton box. Do you have a sketch of the new lever that you can email to me?
Your help will be highly appreciated.
Bernd
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
Hello cyborg,
I have a similar problem with my Norton box. Do you have a sketch of the new lever that you can email to me?
Your help will be highly appreciated.
Bernd
If you go back to post #460 there are 3 links that have information and drawings of the lever. You need this one.... part number 04-0029 In my case both the pre Commando and Commando levers had two holes.

clutch lever pre commando.jpg
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
With my setup, currently there isn't room for a valve stem seal. Barely enough room for the o-ring setup. I would have to shim the clutch over and make a longer pushrod. Will have to do that if I decide to add a radial roller at some point. In fact its so close that I should go back in there and add a shim anyway, so I don't run out of adjustment if and when the plates wear. Didn't have any 6mm rod so ground down the end of 1/4" to fit the o-ring.

Clutch pushrod sizing 2.jpg

Clutch pushrod sizing.jpg
 
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Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I just measured mine and the BCS seal will add .100" to the end of the mainshaft, so if you have 1/8" of rod stickout you are OK.
After my last post about clearance in there, I measured what is remaining after the addition of the seal and there is roughly .050" That means once the plates bed in and wear a total of .050" the pressure plate will come in contact with the seal (O-ring) carrier and the springs will no longer be able to exert any force on the clutch pack. I find this odd, because the seal , as you stated, only takes up .100". My clutch is already shimmed out farther than the stock Commando clutch because of the way that the splines are machined on the Newby clutch. It required more than the usual about of shims to fill the gap between the cupped locating washer and the hub. I could run it the way it is and keep an eye on it, but the adjuster (shown in the photo) isn't all the way through the plate yet and it should be... given that its an alloy plate. I could shorten the pushrod, but the stickup is only .148" and to get the adjuster so it uses all of the thread on the pressure plate, the rod would have to be shortened by .132" which gets the o-ring right at the bullet nose portion of the rod. So..... off with the clutch again and will add another shim or two.
I'm not sure anyone else has any interest in this, but it'll give you a few more things to check before applying the blue locktite to the hub nut. Did you buy a pre commando lever yet?

Pressure Plate clearance.jpg
 

Oldhaven

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Being a very visual sort of person this sort of makes sense and I appreciate the heads up but the clutch is out of the bike now and I will have to put it together and stare at it for a while to really understand. Right now however we have sold the house with a one month closing date and I am boxing up all our earthly posessions and 40 years worth of interesting stuff I can't part with. The Comet is on hold for at least 6 weeks, but I can check that out when we get to our interim digs while waiting for a house to be built. I'll try to get time to buy a pre commando lever, just in case I need it, so thanks for the work done on that subject.

Ron
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
I find that with even having the bits in front of me that I have to stare at it for a while before it sinks in. Its like using a thinner gasket and tightening down an inspection cap to make more clearance for the rocker...... it can hurt your head thinking about it.
 

Bill Thomas

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VOC Member
Being a very visual sort of person this sort of makes sense and I appreciate the heads up but the clutch is out of the bike now and I will have to put it together and stare at it for a while to really understand. Right now however we have sold the house with a one month closing date and I am boxing up all our earthly posessions and 40 years worth of interesting stuff I can't part with. The Comet is on hold for at least 6 weeks, but I can check that out when we get to our interim digs while waiting for a house to be built. I'll try to get time to buy a pre commando lever, just in case I need it, so thanks for the work done on that subject.
Ron,
I think with 6 weeks off, You will still be 6 years in front of me !.
Are you taking your Pet Moose with you ?, The one you showed me in your garden.
Good Luck with the Move. Cheers Bill.
 

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Cyborg

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VOC Member
At the risk of insulting the “D” tribe... having them rise up, grab their pitchforks and head my way... that frame looks weird to me.
 
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Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Wondering if all y’all would say a little prayer or light a candle for me.

7EB7CFB6-5AB7-4543-BE8A-518AE5D8D76E.jpeg4D254C9F-160D-4E66-B324-D51D6A2F963B.jpeg
 

Bill Thomas

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VOC Member
At the risk of insulting the “D” tribe... having them rise up, grab their pitchforks and head my way... that frame looks weird to me.
Maybe because it needs another tube , When used on a Comet, Although I have rode it without, But cracks showed in the F106.
Super when used with a Twin, This frame was my Special, From 1975 ish, Road raced and sprinted it, With good results.
Today, Started to make the other tube for the Comet.
 

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