Starting to put it together again
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Centre of flywheels and lateral centre of weight for a twin engine.
- Thread starter Monkeypants
- Start date
If the bike goes as well as it looks then the locals are going to have to stand by for sonic booms and shock waves. A really nice looking job. Congratulations.
Thanks TT.
For now just a good strong Rapide engine in there. The special engine will probably be next winters project. Most of the parts are here now, but it might be good to get used to the iimproved power to weight ratio in increments.
BTW, I managed to drop a small item in the oil tank twice last week. On both occassions, opened up the bung, gave the tank a blast of compressed air thru the filler neck and out it came thru the bung. Much easier than turning the bike upside down or removing the frame from the engine!
Glen
For now just a good strong Rapide engine in there. The special engine will probably be next winters project. Most of the parts are here now, but it might be good to get used to the iimproved power to weight ratio in increments.
BTW, I managed to drop a small item in the oil tank twice last week. On both occassions, opened up the bung, gave the tank a blast of compressed air thru the filler neck and out it came thru the bung. Much easier than turning the bike upside down or removing the frame from the engine!
Glen
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The electrical turned out to be a lot more work than anticipated. My friend Tony Cording thinks the cowl wiring looks like spaghetti. I didn't take a photo of whats inside the headlight, it looks more like vermicelli with about 60 wires or so, many of them tiny, especially the headlight /tach wiring.
The wire was provided free of charge by another friend whose occupation is building hotrods. He gets wiring kits in prelabelled wire. It is done by ink stamp, every three inches along the insulation. It is generally a bit heavier than needed for the electrical loads on a motorcycle, but very nice stuff. The pieces I used are from his leftovers, offcuts from a foot to maybe ten feet long.
The disconnects are auto stuff too, Pico Weather Pack sealed type. They are a bit bulky but fit the situation, in that I only have about 1/2" height under the seat for the three of the couplers. These couplers are wide but just less than 1/2" thick. There are three additional smaller weather pack couplers tucked in beside the battery, not fully visible in the photo. So the tray slides out for access to fuse boxes and other electrical items then the couplers come away if the tray is to be separated from the bike. The harnesses stay with the bike but the seat pan can be removed easily if needed, just a couple of zip ties to cut and the harnesses come free.
I decided not to do the usual "one fuse does all" British bike wiring job, so there is a bit of a maze of wiring. The larger 8 circuit fuse box is energized with the key switch in the first position, both it and a second six circuit fuse box are energized with the key switch in the second position. This way the ignition is separated from the Alton output, which if connected to a common fuse box will keep the engine alive after the battery is disconnected thru key switch. In other words, you cannot shut the bike off with the key unless these items are separated.
It's a more complicated wiring job than the one or two fuse job would be, but those wiring setups can make you crazy when it comes time to track a problem.
I have one Rapide that kept blowing its single 20 amp fuse. Sometimes it wouldn't blow the fuse, it would drain the battery instead. It has coil ignition so once the battery is dead, you and the bike are probably coming home in the back of a pickup truck.
The previous owner quit riding it because no one was able to track the problem and riding it was a nightmare. Prior to all of this, in about 1984 he had our local expert do a much needed and very extensive stem to stern mechanical redo of the bike from crankpin out, with a gazillion major and minor parts replaced. The bike was also rewired at that time, but the one fuse electrical wiring job was the downfall. When I got the bike it was suggested to me that the Lucas generator was likely the root cause of the problem . I replaced that with a Chinamo and for awhile thought the problem was solved, but it happened again and again. One night while out riding (always close to home and preferably uphill at this point!!)I noticed a spark coming from the headlight switch.
That had been the problem for 20 years, but was intermittent and very difficult to track without separate fuses. Had the headlight circuit been on its own fuse, it would have been a relativley easy find, plus it would not have left the previous owner stranded on the road again and again. So he would have had 20 years of enjoyment from his newly rebuilt bike instead of twenty years and just 550 miles of agony!
The upside is that without the one fuse wiring job and the electrical problem it masked, the previous owner would never have sold me the bike!
Anyway, I'm sure there are improvements that could be made on this wiring job, but I did spend a long time looking at the situation to figure out a good way to do it so that the wire is pretty much out of view and yet things can come apart quickly if necessary.
A couple more small things to do then hope for some good weather next week for a trial run. Final weight is 172 rear 178 front, 350lbs total, helium not yet in the tires Howard, oil in trans only.
I was hopeful for 360dry, so this is great. Not sure why it is 40pounds lighter than a gsxr1000, maybe I have forgotten something?
The wire was provided free of charge by another friend whose occupation is building hotrods. He gets wiring kits in prelabelled wire. It is done by ink stamp, every three inches along the insulation. It is generally a bit heavier than needed for the electrical loads on a motorcycle, but very nice stuff. The pieces I used are from his leftovers, offcuts from a foot to maybe ten feet long.
The disconnects are auto stuff too, Pico Weather Pack sealed type. They are a bit bulky but fit the situation, in that I only have about 1/2" height under the seat for the three of the couplers. These couplers are wide but just less than 1/2" thick. There are three additional smaller weather pack couplers tucked in beside the battery, not fully visible in the photo. So the tray slides out for access to fuse boxes and other electrical items then the couplers come away if the tray is to be separated from the bike. The harnesses stay with the bike but the seat pan can be removed easily if needed, just a couple of zip ties to cut and the harnesses come free.
I decided not to do the usual "one fuse does all" British bike wiring job, so there is a bit of a maze of wiring. The larger 8 circuit fuse box is energized with the key switch in the first position, both it and a second six circuit fuse box are energized with the key switch in the second position. This way the ignition is separated from the Alton output, which if connected to a common fuse box will keep the engine alive after the battery is disconnected thru key switch. In other words, you cannot shut the bike off with the key unless these items are separated.
It's a more complicated wiring job than the one or two fuse job would be, but those wiring setups can make you crazy when it comes time to track a problem.
I have one Rapide that kept blowing its single 20 amp fuse. Sometimes it wouldn't blow the fuse, it would drain the battery instead. It has coil ignition so once the battery is dead, you and the bike are probably coming home in the back of a pickup truck.
The previous owner quit riding it because no one was able to track the problem and riding it was a nightmare. Prior to all of this, in about 1984 he had our local expert do a much needed and very extensive stem to stern mechanical redo of the bike from crankpin out, with a gazillion major and minor parts replaced. The bike was also rewired at that time, but the one fuse electrical wiring job was the downfall. When I got the bike it was suggested to me that the Lucas generator was likely the root cause of the problem . I replaced that with a Chinamo and for awhile thought the problem was solved, but it happened again and again. One night while out riding (always close to home and preferably uphill at this point!!)I noticed a spark coming from the headlight switch.
That had been the problem for 20 years, but was intermittent and very difficult to track without separate fuses. Had the headlight circuit been on its own fuse, it would have been a relativley easy find, plus it would not have left the previous owner stranded on the road again and again. So he would have had 20 years of enjoyment from his newly rebuilt bike instead of twenty years and just 550 miles of agony!
The upside is that without the one fuse wiring job and the electrical problem it masked, the previous owner would never have sold me the bike!
Anyway, I'm sure there are improvements that could be made on this wiring job, but I did spend a long time looking at the situation to figure out a good way to do it so that the wire is pretty much out of view and yet things can come apart quickly if necessary.
A couple more small things to do then hope for some good weather next week for a trial run. Final weight is 172 rear 178 front, 350lbs total, helium not yet in the tires Howard, oil in trans only.
I was hopeful for 360dry, so this is great. Not sure why it is 40pounds lighter than a gsxr1000, maybe I have forgotten something?
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Super, At this point I would have to get it off the bench and go for a thrash !! Finished or not. Cheers Bill.
Hello, monkeypants,
they are beautiful, aren´t they? To link yr first introductory explanation with yr last foto, taken fm the rear, it looks to me, that yr rear wheel runs much more offset
to the left, than 9mm? From the pic it looks more than 1in to the left from the centreline. Not so?!?
All the best,
Little Honda
they are beautiful, aren´t they? To link yr first introductory explanation with yr last foto, taken fm the rear, it looks to me, that yr rear wheel runs much more offset
to the left, than 9mm? From the pic it looks more than 1in to the left from the centreline. Not so?!?
All the best,
Little Honda
Yes, the Glenli has always been one of my favourite production motorcycles
At the first post I had only figured the engine case position of a Standard Vincent, hadnt really figured how to do this bike yet. The standard Vincent or Egli has its crankcase joint 9mm or 3/8" to the left of the frame/wheel centreline. The side to side balance point of the engine, depending on exhaust system, is 5/8 to the left of the crankcase joint, so a full inch to the left of the frame centre of a standard bike. In order to get the sprockets to line up, I shifted the engine 1 and 3/16 inches to the right, in relation to a standard bike. This puts the balance point of the engine almost in line with the frame centre. It is just 3/16" to the right of the ideal location for weight balance.
The numbers I would be using became clear in post 56. Up to that point it was all a bit hazy!
Bill, I am eager to get it out there but the weather here has been horribly wet. There is still a rear mudguard and chainguard to mount, but those items can wait, just need a dry day!
Glen
At the first post I had only figured the engine case position of a Standard Vincent, hadnt really figured how to do this bike yet. The standard Vincent or Egli has its crankcase joint 9mm or 3/8" to the left of the frame/wheel centreline. The side to side balance point of the engine, depending on exhaust system, is 5/8 to the left of the crankcase joint, so a full inch to the left of the frame centre of a standard bike. In order to get the sprockets to line up, I shifted the engine 1 and 3/16 inches to the right, in relation to a standard bike. This puts the balance point of the engine almost in line with the frame centre. It is just 3/16" to the right of the ideal location for weight balance.
The numbers I would be using became clear in post 56. Up to that point it was all a bit hazy!
Bill, I am eager to get it out there but the weather here has been horribly wet. There is still a rear mudguard and chainguard to mount, but those items can wait, just need a dry day!
Glen
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Took it out for a first run today. The roads dried off and I had just a short time, but it was a very pleasant 50 miles or so.
The 1360 engine is definitely not a requirement. With this Shadow tuned Rapide engine in there it just flies.
The handling can best be described as taught. It takes very little effort to go round corners quickly.
As long as you are moving at 50 mph or more, which happens very quickly after releasing the clutch. it is a supremely comfortable ride. Below 50 there is a little weight on the wrists.
I haven't got the back brake functioning just yet, but the front is more than enough. If desired, it's easy enough to lift the back wheel in the air when stopping. Why does my Vincent with the good stoppers lock the front wheel but not lift the back tire whereas this bike will lift the back tire without locking the front wheel? I guess the answer must be in the increased traction of the front tire, lighter weight of the bike and some geometry thrown in.
I was totally unsure what to expect regarding vibration. By removing 110 pounds of material will there be less to soak up the vibes or will it, hopefully, be about the same? This engine in the Vincent cycle parts was pretty smooth to about 70 mph then got a little shaky around 75 but got better again at 80. Whether at 60 mph or 80 or in between, the mirrors shook on the highway. It wasn't so awful that you could not see what was happening behind, but the mirrors were not dead still like they are on the rubber mounted Commando 850.
For some strange reason, in this frame, there is virtually no vibration at any speed I have taken it to so far. If anything it is even smoother than the Commando.
Perhaps it is because the frame is quite stiff. Anyway, it adds to the comfort level of the ride.
It needs a few things fettled and then I can envision putting a lot of miles on it. It really does fit like a tailored suit.
Glen
The 1360 engine is definitely not a requirement. With this Shadow tuned Rapide engine in there it just flies.
The handling can best be described as taught. It takes very little effort to go round corners quickly.
As long as you are moving at 50 mph or more, which happens very quickly after releasing the clutch. it is a supremely comfortable ride. Below 50 there is a little weight on the wrists.
I haven't got the back brake functioning just yet, but the front is more than enough. If desired, it's easy enough to lift the back wheel in the air when stopping. Why does my Vincent with the good stoppers lock the front wheel but not lift the back tire whereas this bike will lift the back tire without locking the front wheel? I guess the answer must be in the increased traction of the front tire, lighter weight of the bike and some geometry thrown in.
I was totally unsure what to expect regarding vibration. By removing 110 pounds of material will there be less to soak up the vibes or will it, hopefully, be about the same? This engine in the Vincent cycle parts was pretty smooth to about 70 mph then got a little shaky around 75 but got better again at 80. Whether at 60 mph or 80 or in between, the mirrors shook on the highway. It wasn't so awful that you could not see what was happening behind, but the mirrors were not dead still like they are on the rubber mounted Commando 850.
For some strange reason, in this frame, there is virtually no vibration at any speed I have taken it to so far. If anything it is even smoother than the Commando.
Perhaps it is because the frame is quite stiff. Anyway, it adds to the comfort level of the ride.
It needs a few things fettled and then I can envision putting a lot of miles on it. It really does fit like a tailored suit.
Glen
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Glen,
Congratulations! Your road test sounds very similar to some of the descriptions offered by early road testers of the Eli-Vincent. At the time the Egli was quite controversial, but you can see why those who rode them like Peter Gerrish and Allan Lancaster were taken with them.
David
Congratulations! Your road test sounds very similar to some of the descriptions offered by early road testers of the Eli-Vincent. At the time the Egli was quite controversial, but you can see why those who rode them like Peter Gerrish and Allan Lancaster were taken with them.
David
Congratulations Glen! You beat me to the first test run! I could of course blame an almost continous downpoor on rain since new year, for not getting it out.. Good to hear it worked out well, but get that rear brake working... remember there are to many hours soaked into it to have an accident due to missing brakes!
Regards Dag
Regards Dag