H: Hubs, Wheels and Tyres Buying Tyres for a Rapide

stu spalding

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Only difference is the 90/90 BT 45 on the front, instead of the avon.
I,ve tried both Roadrider and BT45 and found the BT45 to be the better of the two. I understand that the BT45 has been superseded by the BT46 but I have no experience of this. Cheers, Stu.
 

Marcus Bowden

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All my bikes have 21" fronts some WM1 up to WM4 except the "D's" and all rears are 18" from WM3 to WM5 the "A"rap has 21"front and back on WM4's 18 to 20 PSI up front and 25 psi rear for more comfortable ride. and all tires are Avon Trial Riders. a lot more tread especially on the 18" rears.
 

TouringGodet

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For the Touring spec setup of 19" front, 18" rear, I have 100/90 on the front, and 110/90 on the rear. The chain guard indentation in the rear mudguard, I have to bend it out, just below the RFM pivot, to keep the tire from rubbing.

I believe 100/90 is the closest modern equivalent to the original 350 tire width designation, while 120/90 is the closest modern equivalent to the old 400 tire width. But I haven't dared try to fit a 120/90 to either of my Vincents, one with 19 rear rim, one with 18 rear.

I believe 90/90 is close to the old 325 tire width, while 80/90 would be closest to the 300 width.
 
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danno

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The rims I just re-tyred had 4 holes per rim. One for the valve stem, two for the rim locks and one for a balance weight. I made 3 little button head alloy bushings and pushed them in from the inside of the rim, with and appropriate bit of filing to come close to the contour of the rim and set them in there with black silicone and then covered with the rim tape. You can barely see them sitting there between the spokes. Certainly much less so that rim lock and weight bolts.

I have run modern tyres without the rim locks or weight bolts and have never (in almost 40 years and mileage well into 6 figures) had a tyre slip on a rim.
Thanks.
I’ve fitted the tyre without first blocking the hole but have covered it for now with insulating tape.
Eventually will find a blanking grommet to push in from the outside.
 

danno

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The chain guard indentation in the rear mudguard, I have to bend it out, just below the RFM pivot, to keep the tire from rubbing.
That’s the reason I’ve stuck with the Avon Safety Mileage MKii 3.25/3.50 S19.
There’s around 5mm of clearance.
 

Texas John

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<< SNIP >> I made 3 little button head alloy bushings and pushed them in from the inside of the rim, with and appropriate bit of filing to come close to the contour of the rim and set them in there with black silicone and then covered with the rim tape. You can barely see them sitting there between the spokes. Certainly much less so that rim lock and weight bolts.
Have you tried your wheels at speed yet? 60 MPH is about 800 RPM for the wheel. There will be significant centrifugal force on those alloy bushings in your rim holes with only tire air pressure, a bit of silicone seal/glue, and the rim tape to hold them in place and keep them from moving into the tube area.
 

BigEd

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Have you tried your wheels at speed yet? 60 MPH is about 800 RPM for the wheel. There will be significant centrifugal force on those alloy bushings in your rim holes with only tire air pressure, a bit of silicone seal/glue, and the rim tape to hold them in place and keep them from moving into the tube area.
I maybe not looking at it the same way as you but surely the centrifugal force will be outwards pushing the buttons harder into the rim.
 

Robert Watson

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OK.
First, Big Ed. The button heads are inside the rim so Texas John is correct, in that the forces would tend to push the buttons into the rim. I will also tell you the first one I did stuck out too far so after a couple of days I decided to take it out and change it for a shorter one. Had to beat the (*&&^ out of it to remove it, So NO I have absolutely no concern whatsoever....

PS, I'm not the first person who has done this.
 

Whiteshadow15

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Was very pleased with the fitment, Buchanans was a pleasure to work with.
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