FF: Forks Brampton Coil Over Shocks

[Robert Watson]

On my setup the pivot was with bushings in the lower mount that sat just proud of the holes and then the bolt went thru the middle and tightened up the bushings leaving the shock to pivot on the bushings. It worked very well except for one know-it-all who made his own and despite being told several times that it has to pivot, locked it all up tight. The works ones were "upside down" so the lower mount was on the rod. after a not very long time the rod snapped off and the front end collapsed. He tried to blame it all on me so I sat him down and said "Look here Brother, I told you 10 times that it had to pivot down there or this would happen. It broke where the rod was stepped down to 3/8 and threaded. We just drilled and tapped the rod and loctited as piece of threaded rod in there. Been that way for a lot of miles since then..... Mostly in the new owners hands!

 

[Oldhaven]

Rather than discussing the Works Peformance conversion here, and risking hijacking a thread where Alyn is trying to assess interest in and describe his version, I will move any further discussion by me to:

Misc: Everything Else - Brampton Coil-Over Damper

Very informative gents. From memory I have a 130 or 140lb spring mounted over a modified Koni. It is mounted onto the headlight stay bracket. My original girder link had a reinforcing plate brazed on but my new (post crash) one does not. Mike Breeding was quite happy to say his links will...

www.vincentownersclub.co.uk

I will just say that his version appears to be a much stronger setup at the bottom end than what I had on my Rapide, and second the fact that this and the Thornton rear made for a very comfortable ride. Next step may be a fully sprung seat

 

[vibrac]

Where's the pivot?????

hiding behind the headlamp stays

 

[Albervin]

I suppose many people can bring up cogent arguments about "poor design" but after twenty years of riding Australian roads of all descriptions the only thing I have ever damaged is two front wheels! The first was when I ran over a wayward skateboard and the second was what I thought was a branch and turned out to be a length of galvanised pipe. Twice I have taken the unit off to check the bushes and put them back because there was minimal wear. I am not in any position to make any valid engineering statements as I am a chemist. What I will say though it is your responsibility to check the integrity of your forks.

 

[ogrilp400]

Thanks for that I will take it all in and digest it. I have NEVER had the bottom link crash into the lower yoke. The clearance at the top of the spring is very small but never hinders movement. All the paint in those areas is undamaged after twenty years.

Just trying to figure this out, can some one explain please? On Bamptons, how does the bottom link (s? There are two) crash into the bottom bracket. I can't see how they meet.

 

[CoreyL]

I'm also interested. I have a B series single with 21" front wheel.

 

[ogrilp400]

Just trying to figure this out, can some one explain please? On Bamptons, how does the bottom link (s? There are two) crash into the bottom bracket. I can't see how they meet.

Anyone?

 

[Robert Watson]

If there is no spring or the rod on a coil over breaks the whole font part of the forks goes up swinging the links to as near as vertical as they can go until the mudguard smacks into the bottom of the steering damper and makes the bike VERY awkward to ride!

 

[Albervin]

Robert, I think Ken is asking about full extension such as when the front end is airborne over a bump or going over Ago's leap.

 

[Robert Watson]

Ok then, on full extension, if the travel is not limited, the back of the rear lower part of the fork tubes about 2 inches down from the top hits the cross piece that on conventional forks would be the lower triple tree.