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FF: Forks Brampton Coil Over Shocks

Albervin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I have sent my home made coil over shocks (designed by an engineer) to be tested after the great garage disaster. They have come back with a clean bill of health after being tested on a jig and examined for any stress or cracks. I decided to have a couple of replicas made by the suspension manufacturers (IKON) in case I wanted to convert my C Shadow to a B Shadow just for fun. I have now been asked by two people for one. This is a call out for any expression of interest for a coil over shock for a Series B (Single or twin) that is a straight fit with no modifications required. I have used this unit for over twenty years and have had not had a single problem. The spring rate is 130lb which may sound light but in combination with the damper is just perfect. IF you want, you can change the damper oil or even change the spring rate, but with the adjustable pre-load on the spring you probably won't need to. What I am trying to find is a number of units to have made as a job lot to minimise cost per unit. At the moment I have no costing but hopefully that will come in a couple of days. You are not committing to buy but just expressing an interest. I am prepared to take the manufacturing costs on board and then pass on as people want one. I strongly suggest you know the condition of your forks before going down this road. I have three sets of Brampton forks and have had them properly checked out for their integrity. In my opinion they give the ultimate ride comfort on a Vincent short of Series D springs and modified head stem on a C. I use a 21" front wheel and Avon tyres.
 

Jon 99

Website User
VOC Member
I have a rebuilt standard Vincent unit on the rear end.

I have a model b rapide and am interested in the coilover. I note the length looks about 300 mill from the base of the top thread to clevis hole. I have jacked up the bike( wheel off ground) and it measures about 270 mill from under the top mounting to the top of the bottom yoke/ cross member. I can't measure to the headlamp lug because a previous owner chopped it off! I would therefore have to make up a lug and weld it on assuming the material is suitable for welding. It just seems a tad long.
 
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vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I hope the above doesnt mean you are relying on the headlamp lug position as your only bottom security. On my USA unit (which I have displayed on here recently) it only serves to reinforce and secure the plates that hold the unit on the original spring anchor projection.
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I have a model b rapide and am interested in the coilover. I note the length looks about 300 mill from the base of the top thread to clevis hole. I have jacked up the bike( wheel off ground) and it measures about 270 mill from under the top mounting to the top of the bottom yoke/ cross member. I can't measure to the headlamp lug because a previous owner chopped it off! I would therefore have to make up a lug and weld it on assuming the material is suitable for welding. It just seems a tad long.
After twenty years of riding on many types of road it has been wonderful.
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I hope the above doesnt mean you are relying on the headlamp lug position as your only bottom security. On my USA unit (which I have displayed on here recently) it only serves to reinforce and secure the plates that hold the unit on the original spring anchor projection.
All I can say is it has been used for over twenty years and no problems. I think Robert Watson incorporated the extra lower "security" to satisfy the manufacturer. I cannot comment except that after twenty years of crappy Australian roads, dirt, gravel, pot holed and highway; nothing has broken. I guess you could weld a plate inside the lower link if you were that concerned., however I would want an expert welder to do that job. Remember, the spring is only 130lb.
 
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Albervin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I have a model b rapide and am interested in the coilover. I note the length looks about 300 mill from the base of the top thread to clevis hole. I have jacked up the bike( wheel off ground) and it measures about 270 mill from under the top mounting to the top of the bottom yoke/ cross member. I can't measure to the headlamp lug because a previous owner chopped it off! I would therefore have to make up a lug and weld it on assuming the material is suitable for welding. It just seems a tad long.
I would be hesitant to do any welding unless you are an expert. Buy a new link for safety.
 

Jon 99

Website User
VOC Member
I hope the above doesnt mean you are relying on the headlamp lug position as your only bottom security. On my USA unit (which I have displayed on here recently) it only serves to reinforce and secure the plates that hold the unit on the original spring anchor projection.
I agree I don't think I would be happy to rely on just the lug as it was not designed for that purpose, even though it may be well up to the job.
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I had to do a lot of repair work on Brampton castings because most of the tubing was unsafe. I fitted stainless adapters to the castings to beef up incredibly weak parts. All TIG welding was high nickel material for joints that are either very hard or for unknown steel assemblies. You can play extra safe by having pure nickel rods like used on cast iron components, but Brampton items are no brittle cast iron anyway. Jake Robbins did the retubing later.

Vic

P1060632.JPG

P1080251.JPG
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I agree I don't think I would be happy to rely on just the lug as it was not designed for that purpose, even though it may be well up to the job.
The bottom of the damper also rests onto the link. As I have said before, this set-up has been completely without trouble for over twenty years. It has crossed Australia, been on gravel roads, hit big holes and bumps in the road and run over a wayward skateboard. The rims however have been buckled several times due to the roads so if there is a weak "link" it is the wheel rims. Here is a picture of the back side of the unit. Of course it is your choice and I am merely putting this offer forward. If you are in doubt you could buy a link from Mike Breeding who makes his parts from much sturdier metal.
DSC00004.jpeg
 

Jon 99

Website User
VOC Member
The bottom of the damper also rests onto the link. As I have said before, this set-up has been completely without trouble for over twenty years. It has crossed Australia, been on gravel roads, hit big holes and bumps in the road and run over a wayward skateboard. The rims however have been buckled several times due to the roads so if there is a weak "link" it is the wheel rims. Here is a picture of the back side of the unit. Of course it is your choice and I am merely putting this offer forward. If you are in doubt you could buy a link from Mike Breeding who makes his parts from much sturdier metal.
View attachment 37309
Replacing the link would be a good option, but a big job beyond my expertise. Same old story one job leads to another.
 

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