Battery weak after ride - C Rapide

Howard

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VOC Member
Careful with all this spitting, you'll make the drive belt slip. :)

H


I have a Walkernator on my road comet I think it looks good
You know what they say, if you have room to spit through the middle of a motorcycle, it aint right.
well you cant spit through my Comet with the alternator in place
 

Monkeypants

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Non-VOC Member
Danno, Signal Dynamics makes a tiny self cancelling turn indicator module that will replace your old flasher unit and also give you the self cancelling feature plus hazard lights. It will work with negligible draw LEDS. Cost is about $75.00.

If you are interested in doing a bit more work and adding a bit more expense, Oberon makes some very slick bar end LED indicators that are extremely bright and can even be fitted with bar end mirrors if desired. The bar end indicators are great because they have fore and aft lenses, are mounted at the widest point of the bike which gives great visibility to other motorists. With lighting tho, the biggest saving of power is to add a pilot light to the headlamp and make it an LED type. I have one of these and it is bright enough to limp home in the dark with, should the mainbeam fail. I think it only draws a couple of watts.

Glen
 

danno

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Non-VOC Member
I think it would be easier to keep the indicator pods in place and replace the 4 bulbs with LED equivalents from somewhere like
Autobulbsdirect.
Also replace the pilot light bulb with LED as suggested.
 

clevtrev

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VOC Member
Trevor, you might have been a few kms from shutdown. The Shorai site provides a discharge chart , along with a warning not to go below 12.86 volts. If you are somehow able to maintain a battery above 12.86 volts at all times while running a dead loss system, then it will be fine. Drop below this and get the double whammy, problems on the road and a very expensive junk battery.
I accomplished this very feat last June when coming home from Crawford Bay in South Eastern British Columbia. My Norton charging system failed and after an unknown number of miles , the bike died. The point at which the charging system failed is unkown because it has an idiot light and the idiot in charge of the light did not replace it some time ago when it burned out. So it could have been non functioning when I started the trip, about 1300 kms total. Anyway, the voltage dropped below the critical point for Boyer ignition about 500 kms from home on the return trip. No problem, I have a spare fully charged Li 20pb /eq Battery in the pannier. At this point I still thought 20 pb/eq was the same as a lead acid 20 ah, which is about small car battery size in Lead acid.In reality I had about 6 AH in the Battery, though it did not even seem to go as far as 6 AH ought to.
The Li Battery made it about 40 miles down the road and then it was ignition off time again. I checked the voltage and it wa hovering between 12.5 with no load and limp mode 5volts with lighting load, so fully discharged. Fortunately the Li battery ran out of steam at the top of a several miles long steep hill. I was able to coast right into the little town of Osooyos which sits at the bottom of the long hill. Actually I coasted into the Dairy Queen parking lot, which was ideal. I was able to sit in the airconditioned DQ (very hot day) and slurp ice cream while my friends went down the street to purchase a big lead acid battery for me. They came back with the propersized YTX 14 battery, OE size for the Norton. It ran the bike about 400 kms to home deadloss, andstill had lots of charge left. The Li battery apparently did not like being fully discharged to 12.5 volts, and that was the end of it, it no longer holds a charge.

Glen
A couple of points you do not know. The bike is fitted with a digital voltmeter, and at the end of that trip was reading 13 volts, that included the starter being used as a propulsion unit, when the bike ran out of fuel on a dual carriageway, and to catch up with the accompanying rider the machine had to be pushed a fair way. The starter made an incline a lot easier.
Secondly, the bike also has another battery,,,,,, just in case.
So, two Shorai`s on the bike, still cheaper than a charging system.
 

Monkeypants

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Non-VOC Member
Hi Trevor
Without knowing the type of ignition and lighting draw, it is impossible to know what you are actually drawing from your Shorai batteries. According to the Shorai site, divide the number in the model size designation by 3 to get actual amphours. The Shorai LFX 18 is then a 6 amphour battery, which in lead acid is also a very tiny battery. It should be noted that this 6 amphour capacity is when fully charged to 14.6 volts. If only charged to 13, volts, the Shorai LFX has just 30%of it's full capacity available, so just two amphours.There is nothing magic about the Li batteries , 6 amphours is 6 amphours, two ah is two ah, same as with a lead acid battery. A two AH lead acid battery would be a very tiny battery, but not many would consider installing a battery with such a tiny storage capacity. It is happening all the time with li batteries tho, because people, self included, get fooled by the big number, such as the 18 in the LFX18.

If you have a magneto ignition and low draw led pilot light, then almost any battery will work deadloss fo quite awhile. I have done this on a couple of trips when my charging system failed, only this was on a bike with high draw dual point dual coil ignition. Even so, a big lead acid battery would run the bike all day deadloss without problem, generally 500- 600 kms.. I found it was an annoyance having to locate a power source and extension cord for the charger at the end of a long day of riding, and even more annoying to forgo running my heated vest in the interest of conserving battery voltage.
The cost of two Shorai batteries and the special Shorai charger will get you most of the way to the purchase of a new Alton. The new version of the Alton is very good. You dont mention how many years you have been using the Shorai batteries in this way. Until it failed permanently at 18 months, I thought my Li battery great and was looking forward to the manufacturer's claimed life, "up to three times that of lead acid" . I typically see 4 years from a cheap lead acid so this meant 12 years of life from the LI battery! When the battery failed at 18 months it no longer was a cost effective purchase.
Using the starter to propel the bike could prove to be rather costly, especially if you cook a couple of $200 batteries. A charging system and one lead acid battery will suddenly seem very economical. Have a look here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySNbSZTgplA

It might be that running deadloss and using the Shorai charger is the best way to utilize this type of battery on our old bikes. At least this way you know you have full battery capacity after charging, unlike the situation with a charging system that operates in a lower voltage range than Li batteries do.
Itis interesting that the Shorai site now lists a disclaimer on their batteries. They state that the batteries are only compatible with vehicles having a charging system that produces a minimum of 13.1 volts at idle! This excludes amost all of our older motorcycle charging sysems and most of the new ones made for the Vincent as well. The Walkernator might be the only exception. These are just my thoughts after having a rather negative experience with what I thought was a fabulous new technology. After the problems, when I really dug down for hard numbers, it was easy to see why the battery failed. It is not so much a fabulous new technology as it is a fantastic new marketing strategy.
Glen.
 
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timetraveller

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VOC Member
The 'Walkernator' will balance a 130/90 watt headlamp bulb, 6 watt rear light and coil ignition (about one amp averaged out over contacts open and closed) at the tick over on my twin at 1,000 rpm. That is not a very slow tick over. On Comets, because of various restrictions on pulley sizes due to the differences between twins and singles, it will not balance that load until about 1,500 rpm. On Dick Sherwin’s twin during development it would balance three (count them, three!) 60/55 watt headlights plus the ignition, rear light, heated grips and heated gloves and flashing indicators at about 50 mph in top, 2,300 rpm. There is so much available power that there is no need to go for any 'modern' battery, or LED rear lights. It does not look standard and there are those who think that it looks ugly. However, father and son Appleton made their ‘Walkernators’ look very acceptable by the addition of an outrigger consisting of a Lucas horn chromed bezel and a VOC badge. All that I will say in its defense is that nothing on the original bike is modified and if one wanted to revert to standard appearance at some time in the future it is possible with little effort.
 

danno

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Non-VOC Member
Excellent selection of specialty low draw bulbs for British bikes at Paul Goff's site. He is also a Vincent owner, is on the forum now and then and is UK based. http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/ And here is the self cancelling LED compatible Turn indicator module http://www.ebay.com/itm/SIGNAL-DYNA...ELLING-TURN-SIGNAL-MODULE-01501-/151139504521

Thanks.
The unit looks like it works with individual left and right switches whereas I have a single all in one switch (up R / middle off/ down L). It resembles the main/dipped beam switch on the right bar and also there's no more room on that side to fit an extra switch due to the brake lever bracket.
I could fit LED replacements in the indicators and then try and find a suitable flasher unit to work them.
If I also fit an LED pilot light for daytime use I think a lead/acid YTX14-BS as usual would be ok . Just need to use the bike more.
 
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