Battery weak after ride - C Rapide

[Monkeypants]

Danno, you are correct , the self cancelling flasher module requires left and right buttons or a single switch that is momentary. I first used it with left and right buttons but found that awkward. Recently I fitted one of Paul Goff's universal turn indicator switches to the left side and did away with the left and right buttons. I made the switch into a momentary version by rotating the pins slightly, then epoxying them into position. As it was, the switch lever would pop into a detent for left or right and stay there until your thumb returned it to centre and off.
Now travel is limited so that the switch doesn't reach the detent position. Instead it will only stay on left or right until released, then an internal spring brings it back to centre and off (momentary) This works perfectly for the self cancelling module and is easy to use.

 

[danno]

As it was, the switch lever would pop into a detent for left or right and stay there until your thumb returned it to centre and off.

That's how I prefer it, having the indicators being able to stay on themselves. I'll check with Paul Goff to see if he has flasher units and if swapping to LED bulbs would be an easy job.
Otherwise I'll just get an LED pilot light, new battery and keep everything as it is.
It's always been ok, I just think the battery hasn't been used enough.

 

[Monkeypants]

With the self cancelling setup the indicators stay on by themselves, only for a predetermined amount of time, 1 second input gives seven flashes, ideal for changing lanes on the fly, two seconds gives 25 flashes, good for turning a corner on a green light, again on the roll, and three seconds of input gives about seventy flashes, good when sitting waiting for a light to turn green.
With the manual on/off indicators I have a real problem in forgetting to cancel the indicators. This is especially dangerous when the left flasher has been inadvertantly left on (right in the UK) and an intersection is encountered. An approaching driver sees the indicator and thinks it is safe to make his left turn (right UK) but I am actually going straight thru. I have nearly bought it a couple of times this way, and of course it was my own fault. The self cancelling module solves this problem
If you don't have this problem of forgetfulness, then the selfcancelling module isn't needed.
Glen

 

[vibrac]

I recently had a day on the new watercooled boxer BMW and horror of horrors the BMW left and right indicator switches with right cancel and time out has gone.
If I was about to spend that sort of money on the thing (I am not the transmission is too harsh) there would have to be some retro fitting in that area I have enough of the jap left hand "fiddle and push" on my trail bikes...

 

[Howard]

I've got a flasher relay for LEDs - just swap that and the bulbs. I took them off my Comet, the bulbs didn't seem to like vibration. pm me if you're interested, I'll drop the flasher and the remaining bulbs in the post.

H

That's how I prefer it, having the indicators being able to stay on themselves. I'll check with Paul Goff to see if he has flasher units and if swapping to LED bulbs would be an easy job.
Otherwise I'll just get an LED pilot light, new battery and keep everything as it is.
It's always been ok, I just think the battery hasn't been used enough.

 

[danno]

danno, is your existing battery topped up with fluid?

Not fully. Have opened the battery and most of the cells were low.
I normally check this more often but says this is unecessary in the instructions on the top. Have topped it up and left it charging on the Optimate but 1 or 2 cells may have gone as they're not bubbling. It reads 12.8 volts having been on overnight.
The battery's just over 2 years old.

The Shorai batteries look impressive but having read your info on using them with older ignition systems I'll probably get a Yuasa YTX14-BS as the bike has always had these since being rebuilt.
I was advised here some time ago that a 14ah battery is needed for the electric start but the above is 12ah and can't seem to find a 14ah one, only the Motobatt.
I use the kick mostly as I need the practice but electric start is handy on the odd occasion.

 

[bmetcalf]

Starting on p.10, this has case dimensions and might be useful:
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/2012_yuasa_apps_specs.pdf

 

[danno]

Ok thanks
Dan

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

Not fully. Have opened the battery and most of the cells were low.
I normally check this more often but says this is unecessary in the instructions on the top. Have topped it up and left it charging on the Optimate but 1 or 2 cells may have gone as they're not bubbling. It reads 12.8 volts having been on overnight.
The battery's just over 2 years old.

The Shorai batteries look impressive but having read your info on using them with older ignition systems I'll probably get a Yuasa YTX14-BS as the bike has always had these since being rebuilt.
I was advised here some time ago that a 14ah battery is needed for the electric start but the above is 12ah and can't seem to find a 14ah one, only the Motobatt.
I use the kick mostly as I need the practice but electric start is handy on the odd occasion.

I have had a SHORAI on my Comet for the last 2 years and 14,000 miles and its still going strong with NO PROBLEMS. The big advantages for me is that it cannot leak and it can be installed in any position. I have it standing on its end inside a dummy EXIDE case. Works a treat.

I am running the ORIGINAL Miller generator with a solid state voltage regulator from Paul Goff that delivers a nominal 13.5 volts , negative earth, output.

Take Care - if you use a Optimate or any form of charger that incorporates a de-sulphinate mode it will destroy a SHORAI or any brand of Li-I battery for that matter - You must use the Shorai specific charger. So much for not being compatible with "older" charging systems.

Martyn

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

I was advised here some time ago that a 14ah battery is needed for the electric start but the above is 12ah and can't seem to find a 14ah one, only the Motobatt.
I use the kick mostly as I need the practice but electric start is handy on the odd occasion.

SHORAI have 14AH & 18AH units that fits inside a dummy EXIDE case with room to spare. If you are happy to have the SHORAI installed without the use of a dummy case then SHORAI are available up to 36AH