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maybe too much grease greg??
H: Hubs, Wheels and Tyres brakes
- Thread starter erik
- Start date
Funny you say that...........And yet the factory stuck grease nipples in places you would have to near empty your grease gun to get grease where you want it. I personally like how the Nilos seals work so long as the sharp edge just kisses the side face of the outer bearing. I think the first one I did had metric bearings and this caused me all sorts of grief.............We all learn as we go.........Cheers..........Greg.
Press fit in the outer hub, they do run close to the bearing inner race but they don't actually touch. As Vincent said, perhaps don't get carried away over greasing the bearings, just pack the inners as per normal, a nice smear in the outers and assemble, wipe the excess away. I try the new hollow axle between the fork blades first to see how much of a gap is left, then split the difference shared between each brake plate and shim the plates out so the forks don't pull in when the solid axle is finally tightened. Try each actual brake plate up to its position inside the fork blades to make sure nothing interferes or binds up as this will cause grief when you finally install the wheel/brake assembly.
There are many Vincent owners who are skilled machinists & mechanics...I am neither.
I have greased the bearings, tapped the seals into place so that they are flush with the hub, not rubbing on the bearings, but there is still too much end float on the hollow axle for the thin washers to take up...nearly 3/16" to my eye..How are the bearings to be retained in place?
I have greased the bearings, tapped the seals into place so that they are flush with the hub, not rubbing on the bearings, but there is still too much end float on the hollow axle for the thin washers to take up...nearly 3/16" to my eye..How are the bearings to be retained in place?
It sounds like your bearing combination is wrong. You either need different inner roller races or else you will need to continue shimming the bearings you have to remove all the side play in the hollow axle. If you have the instruction sheets that come with the VSM brake kit, it shows pictures of three set ups using different bearings, look closely at the pictures and the part numbers of the bearings, and you will see they all affect how the hollow axle and the brake plates end up. It is a little confusing because the bearings look the same, but they differ by the depth with which the inner and outer races end up when assembled to the hub/axle combination. The problem that arises is that the brake plates can end up further out than they should be, and this leaves part of the shoe lining surface overhanging the drum which causes a ridge as the linings ware, it will still work but it is not ideal. Cheers and good luck...........Greg.
Bob my handsome, just been doing hubs & bearings as I prepping up some wheels as brother is treating us to a set of Vincent Speet brake 2LS. Sounds as if you've fitted narrow imperial bearings, Ian Savage VOCSC put me right as there are spacers which can be installed behind the outer race. But I have a lathe or three so put the hollow axle between centers and reduced the shoulders by 0.080" about 2mm each end, then all it required was 0.010" one side and 0.018" the other. There are two imperial sizes that will fit Vin hubs & RFM's, It is better to get the wide bearingss, Hang on a minute I'll get the numbers,::-
Wide brgs SKF outer 6K-09196 inner 09074/////// narrow type TIMKEN 09067..09195..99401, sorry took so long, got distracted by a BS dripping oil.
bananaman.
Wide brgs SKF outer 6K-09196 inner 09074/////// narrow type TIMKEN 09067..09195..99401, sorry took so long, got distracted by a BS dripping oil.
bananaman.