I'm assembling my brakes...... I feel your pain!
H: Hubs, Wheels and Tyres brakes
- Thread starter erik
- Start date
I'm assembling my brakes...... I feel your pain!
Bugger blast...... +1. Laced the wheel... installed the tire, ( because I thought it would be easier to do without the drums in the way).... installed the drums and then went to install the brake plates. Hmmm.. something isn't right here. Turns out the shiny new stainless spoke flanges don't sit flush on the hub. Remove tire, unlace wheel... start over. Lesson learned.
Does it need the spacers they are making now ?. Cheers Bill.
BRAKE DRUM SPACER SS 0.020" thick.
If the brake drum cannot be pulled up against the
spoke flange due to spokes hitting the back of the drum
H55 VOCSC web site
Crap..I better check mine
Its not the spokes interfering with the drum, I'm ok there and I checked that when I bolted the drums on. It's the recess/radius in the new stainless spoke flange that won't allow the flange to sit flush on the hub. Disassembled the wheel and skimmed the edge of the hub flange, so now the spoke flange will butt squarely up against the hub. Just in the process of re-lacing the wheel.
Just purchased SS spoke flanges from VOCSC for brother Harvey's new front wheel and they fitted OK on a new billet made hub, presuming the flanges are pressed out with the same press they should be all the same, had to dismantle one hub as lacing up to the upper drum (wheel laid horizontal with spacers under rim for central alignment) spokes unable to be entered between drum and flange, flanges removed and measured for the amount of dishing, with large diameter face down on surface plate and vernier depth taken from hub hole to surface plate , varies from 10.5 to 14.0 mm after measuring several sets of zinc plated steel ones.
On 18" rims with cross 4 pattern the angle of the flange could do with a little more taper as it is hitting the side of the flange and one has to spring the spoke into alignment to fit nipple. also putting flats on the spoke head which I've done previously.
drives on bananas
better still three wheels completed spoke ends nicely ground off,, struggled fitting new tubes & tyres (bloody strength failing) then realized hadn't fitted rim tape (duck tape two turns) all off again in the morning, bugger & blast again here.
On 18" rims with cross 4 pattern the angle of the flange could do with a little more taper as it is hitting the side of the flange and one has to spring the spoke into alignment to fit nipple. also putting flats on the spoke head which I've done previously.
drives on bananas
better still three wheels completed spoke ends nicely ground off,, struggled fitting new tubes & tyres (bloody strength failing) then realized hadn't fitted rim tape (duck tape two turns) all off again in the morning, bugger & blast again here.
The problem I have is installing the stainless flange on an original hub. As for you being unable to fit the spokes between the drum and flange....are you sure the distance between the flange and drum hasn't been reduced because the flange isn't home all the way on the hub? Could you get some spokes to fit through (as in the flange and drum are not running true because the flange is cockeyed) I originally thought mine were ok. Maybe peek into those 5 bolt holes that hold the drum on and see if there is any gap between the flange and hub. Hopefully not, because it's a triple bugger blast removing the tire and disassembling the wheel trimming things and reassembling everything.
Hi Greg,
I have metric bearings front n rear on my Comet and use NILOS seals. The standard NILOS seal for a 30204 is perfect for the rear axle but NOT for the front. There is no available NILOS seal that will work at the front without modification.
For the front you need a NILOS seal for a 30303 bearing but you will find the centre hole at 17mm is too small to go over the axle. You need to enlarge the central hole in the seal but it MUST remain central, and not off centre. The solution I came up with was to hold the seal GENTLY in a (borrowed) lathe running at the slowest speed possible then use a Dremel or die grinder with a small stone and use that to slowely enlarge the central hole till its a snug fit over the axle.
Worked a treat for me. Remember to fill the back of the NILOS seal with grease - to catch and hold any fine metal particles that are created over the first few hours of running as the NILOS creates its sealing groove on the face of the fixed bearing cone.
Lot of good info nn NILOS can be found here http://www.skf.com/binary/30-228382/950-710-Nilos_08.pdf
Martyn