H: Hubs, Wheels and Tyres brakes

chankly bore

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Just to either throw more light, or confuse you further. My SKF Automotive catalogue of 1985 says that you can interchange 09067 and 09074 cones with 09194, 09195 and 09196 cups. 09194 has a greater radius on the outer "inside" face. I would not feel happy about swapping about between manufacturers, though." Know thy Beast" covers the various bearings in the "Wheels" chapter. Be manly, bear up and play the game, Bob!
 

Bazlerker

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The new bearings ( cones & cups ) are identical to the old ones and are also the ones spec'd by Mr.Speet. The old cups came out easily - with a line of weld, the new ones inserted easily by freezing them first.
 

Albervin

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The new bearings ( cones & cups ) are identical to the old ones and are also the ones spec'd by Mr.Speet. The old cups came out easily - with a line of weld, the new ones inserted easily by freezing them first.
Three months ago that would have meant putting them on the door step.
 

Bazlerker

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I have finally returned to my brakes project...this morning I carefully shimmed the bearings so that the axle has almost zero end float with the bearings fully home. After some cursing & delicate work with a mallet I installed the brass seals...only to find that with the seals flush with the outer face of the hub the hollow axle is locked solid, refuses to rotate.. I assume that I either have to machine the seals very slightly to allow the bearing to protrude without fouling, or not press the seals in quite so much..or...is it possible that shimming the bearings on the axle is not required, allowing the axle some end float?

Anyone?
 
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Bazlerker

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The front fender stay fouls the speedo drive...I guess I'll flatten the stay to clear it. R.Watson kindly dug a few B.S.F bolts out of his shop supplies to supply me with ones to use with spacers for the rear stays, and next week Ill get my brake lever perch brazed up after I stupidly tried to tap the brass with a fine tap...Next time Ill use a coarse tap.
 
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