H: Hubs, Wheels and Tyres Wheel rims rusted

[vibrac]

If you have a copy of the Vintage motorcyclists workshop you will see all about the taveners jig
I have spoken about this before search above for 'taveners'
if the wheel is true then in effect you build a jig to locate hub and rim then take the wheel apart re-chrome the rim add new spokes if required and reassemble on the jig.
Vincent Spares has a wheel painter that paints the rims before they rebuild

 

[Chris Launders]

If you take the complete wheels to any chrome platers I know they will tell you to take them away, it's not their job to take things apart.

The taverners jig is a great help, but be sure to take a couple of good pictures of the wheel in the jig before taking it apart, then you have a reference as to which spokes go where.

As a long time amateur (50 years) wheel builder, Vincent wheels are among the easiest to build, Rawl Plugs are your friend here, they can be inserted in the hole in the flange after the spoke head to keep the spoke in place until you need to fit the next one in the hole, and then refitted once that is in, if not the whole thing can frustratingly fall apart.

Also before stripping you could wrap a bit of coloured insulating tape around each spoke, a different colour for each row, this would then easily show which spokes were in which row and would help you identify every rows position.

Don't be frightened,

 

[danno]

If you take the complete wheels to any chrome platers I know they will tell you to take them away, it's not their job to take things apart.

The taverners jig is a great help, but be sure to take a couple of good pictures of the wheel in the jig before taking it apart, then you have a reference as to which spokes go where.

As a long time amateur (50 years) wheel builder, Vincent wheels are among the easiest to build, Rawl Plugs are your friend here, they can be inserted in the hole in the flange after the spoke head to keep the spoke in place until you need to fit the next one in the hole, and then refitted once that is in, if not the whole thing can frustratingly fall apart.

Also before stripping you could wrap a bit of coloured insulating tape around each spoke, a different colour for each row, this would then easily show which spokes were in which row and would help you identify every rows position.

Don't be frightened,

Thanks.
Had a brief look for Taverners jig. Not sure if it's something you make up or buy.
Years ago I sent my BMW R60/6 front wheel in the post to a wheel specialist to have the drum skimmed.
Might have been Supreme Wheels or Central Wheel Components. Can't recall but I think SWC do wheel rebuilding.

I may have to leave the DIY assembly for now. It'll be in bits for weeks and I also need to do the top end on the BM.
Good for a winter job.
Ideally I'd like them restored and rebuilt. I could take them apart initially, though.
Might try Willis Wheels as a start.

 

[Gary Gittleson]

It's my understanding that professional wheel builders normally just cut the old spokes off to save time. I've always done it myself, so don't know first hand.

 

[oexing]

When dealing with chromed rims that are rusty check for any traces of internal rust under the rolled-over flanges. They might have corroded untill unsafe! My friend had a cathastrophal breakdown of the rear rim of the Ducati 860 GT. The flange was split out by air pressure but I think the inner tube held up for a stop.
I would not be willing to inject any time into a rusted steel rim. Just get a stainless type , cheap or Devon - your choice.

Vic

 

[bmetcalf]

A leaky engine has the benefit of rust-proofing the rear rim (and tyre, too, unfortunately.)

 

[vibrac]

I made my taveners jig on a old piece of kitchen top and 4X2" angle iron on wooden blocks and some coke can strip packers. On a normal wheel you would also locate via the wheel spindle when I did a hub centre steering front wheel (Difazio) I had to locate the whole hub because the spindle was not fixed (which is why you could not use a standard wheel building jig anyway)

 

[robert shennan]

Is there a pic available of the taverners jig?

 

[Michael Vane-Hunt]

 

[danno]

Just get a stainless type , cheap or Devon - your choice.

Hadn't really looked into that or thought there was a cheap option. Good choice available at Devon and Central.
With or without spokes.

Would prefer, for quicker turnaround to have Willis Wheels assemble them. As for painting, I guess it would be good to have it as original rather than bare stainless or chrome.
Also rim size/tyre availability. Perfectly happy with the standard 20" F/19" R Avon Speedmaster setup. As long as classic M/C tyre sizes are still available and continue to be.