Wet Multiplate Tips, Please

Howard

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I’m running a modified BSA A65 clutch dry (since the Slater clutch gave up many many moons ago). It’s ok but it doesn’t like punishment and it tends to be more of an on/off switch. It’s not been a real problem, until the wife decided to start coming out for a spin with me. The extra load and trying to start gently has shown up the clutch’s short comings and I think the only answer is to run it in oil.
Before I start making my own mistakes, I’d be grateful for any pointers from anyone who’s fitted a wet multiplate.
Has anyone just put oil in the clutch housing, or is it always joint oil supply with the primary drive?
I’ve seen primary chain covers with the back of the clutch housing machined out. Is this the only/best way, or will a few holes suffice?
What oil level is needed? The chaincase oil level looks a bit too low for a wet clutch.
H
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I have a std. clutch, but I believe a few easily plugged holes are sufficient. One up high as a breather back to the primary case might be good. The cover will have to be made leak tight and removing it will be messy. If you have a small hole drilled into the clutch cavity to drain oil out that made it past the seals (like I have) that will need plugging.
 

John Cone

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
As Bruce says you will need to plug the 1/16 drain hole in the bottom of the outer cover and possibly just by leaving the seal out of the primary cover should allow oil in to the clutch to lubricate.
 

ernie

VOC Assistant Secretary
VOC Member
My advice Howard, for what it's worth, is to try oiling the plates first before you go the whole wet clutch thing.
 

John Appleton

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Howard, I had a mutiplate clutch which was found to need oil to stop "grab" and "screeching" (you can get arrested for causing that to happen). Fortunately I decided to just add oil to the clutch housing, rather than drill holes all over the place. I say fortunately as it proved to be a very fine line between slip and grab, and I completely cured my clutch problems when I decided that most of my woes were self inflicted and refitted the standard clutch and one of the five ear steel primary plates.
My advice would be to try an egg-cup full of oil to see if you are happy with the results. A smear of the dreaded silicone sealer on the cover works a treat, and you are in a position to go back to the start if you are not satisfied.

John.
 

Howard

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Ah yes, the famous Grab and Screechin - I think they supplied bodies to Burke and Hare.
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H
 

hooterman

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I’m running a modified BSA A65 clutch dry (since the Slater clutch gave up many many moons ago). It’s ok but it doesn’t like punishment and it tends to be more of an on/off switch. It’s not been a real problem, until the wife decided to start coming out for a spin with me. The extra load and trying to start gently has shown up the clutch’s short comings and I think the only answer is to run it in oil.
Before I start making my own mistakes, I’d be grateful for any pointers from anyone who’s fitted a wet multiplate.
Has anyone just put oil in the clutch housing, or is it always joint oil supply with the primary drive?
I’ve seen primary chain covers with the back of the clutch housing machined out. Is this the only/best way, or will a few holes suffice?
What oil level is needed? The chaincase oil level looks a bit too low for a wet clutch.
H

Carefull Howard "Wife Extra Load" Brave Man


hooterman (Tony)
 

Roger Lord

Forum User
VOC Member
Hi
I am running a Suzuki GS550 clutch in oil on my Rapide I found that by leaving out the oil seal and drilling a few hole between the primary drive and the clutch at the 5 and 7 "0" clock to set a level and a couple at the 12 "0"clock position to feed a supply of oil is enough, this allows the oil to drain,prevents the clutch from filling up. If you just use your normal primary drive oil level you should have oil in the area, I would suggest a fairly thin oil. Any other holes in the clutch dome/area will have to be closed off or sealed
Any oil in the clutch at start will be flung out once the engine is running and will be lubricated and cooled by the oil mist in the primary drive/clutch areas


Roger Lord
 

Howard

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Thanks all.
I think I know where to start - why did I drill all those cooling holes in the clutch cover all those years ago????:mad:

H

ps Tony - You were right. The wife read my post and she's not speaking to me............... anyone want a cheap intercom?;-)
 

Mark Fisher

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
I run a videan multiplate clutch in my egli and it is OK but really needs a bit more lift (neutral very hard to find), is there a way of acheiving this?
thanks
mark
 
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