Vincent twin clutch

[stu spalding]

It is not necessary to have a fancy jig to set the depth of thimbles C12. All that is needed is a double diameter mandrel that is snug fit in the bore of shoe carrier C3/2 and a running fit in plate carrier bush C17. This can be easily be turned from a hard plastic such as Delrin. With the assembly in the vice a bar is used between the pins C14 to work the plate carrier C13 back and forth. The thimbles are adjusted to allow the shoes to expand to 6" (assuming that the drum has the standard 5 7/8" ID and has not been skimmed). The idea that the springs have to be set to a specific poundage is a myth. Cheers, Stu.

 

[Bill Thomas]

I agree that the settings we now have, Are not "Set in Stone", But it's nice to have a base setting,
Rather than the factory saying , Leave them as they are !!, I mean 70 years ago, Maybe.
Funny thing is, If you look at some of what people said a long time ago, ie, In " Featured Resources ",
They say the soft one should be hard and the hard one soft !.
We played with one some time ago, And the one that should be soft, Was soo hard, But we ran out of time,
And on the road it wasn't too bad.
On my Bikes, My problem was too much slack, between the thimbles and what they should be touching,
So the shoes were flapping about and snagging on the drum, Some times.
I will get it good, One day ?. Cheers Bill.

 

[stu spalding]

Hi Bill, the only way to get the shoes concentric and not flapping is to adjust the actual lengths of the plungers, adjusting the thimbles will not help here. If the plungers are only slightly short, undercutting the collar will move them in a little. If more is needed a spot of weld on the end of the plunger can be turned down to suit. Cheers, Stu.

 

[Bill Thomas]

As a quick fix for me, I had a few spare tubes, That go inside the 6 springs/9 Pins.
So I cut short bits off and slipped them over the pins, where the thimbles touch.
The thing is to get the tickover slow, To get into gear, But with race spec engines, Not that easy.
But I am being a bit Picky, My Bikes are not too bad.
Cheers Bill.

 

[chankly bore]

No you wont see the washers listed on any clutch drawing, the purpose of them is to ensure that the rear face of the inner pressure plate does not foul the servo shoe mechanism, sometimes, in fact more often than not you will see witness marks on the rear face of the plate if the washers are not used.

I seem to remember they are listed, but not shown, in the series "D" Parts List. Six additional ET98 or ET98/1, I forget which, just magically appear.

 

[stu spalding]

The use of washers under plate C21 shouldn't be neccessary if the pivot nut (C5) bores are OK. One dodge is to recess the groove in the shoe for circlip C39 and put a washer on the other end of pin C9, under the splitpin 69. Grinding the end of pin C9 to just shy of the circlip groove also helps, but at the end of the day it's best to fully reclaim the shoes back to standard. Cheers, Stu.