E: Engine Verdigris

erik

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I clean carb parts like this with "sandblasting" with plastic pearls. 25-70 /1000 mm and 2bar pressure! It is quasi non abrasive.Erik
 

Brian Thompson

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
I went to great lengths to find some before and after photos with using that Subaru cleaner. I hope you enjoy them.
20200322_120439.jpg
20200322_183246.jpg
 

ClassicBiker

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Brian,
I take it, Subaru cleaner is by the car company of the same name? Did you use it by itself or in an ultra sonic cleaner? The difference between the before and after is astounding.
Steven
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I googled that product name and it seems Oz-centric. One forum link said FWIW that SeaFoam was very similar. I didn't dig farther for technical info.
 

powella

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Thanks to all who replied and special thanks to " ClassicBiker " for explaining how and why the Verdigris happens.
HOWEVER - like all good politicians , who never actually answer any question directly , I would ask for
opinions / answers as to its prevention or total cure. Some thoughts are :
Suggestion 1 Junk all the Brass bits and copy turn in Marine Grade Stainless Steel type 316.

Suggestion 2 Use Admiralty Brass ( D . G . Ships Spec 1942 Navy. )
 

ClassicBiker

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I would not use stainless. While it will never get verdigris on it. I strongly believe it will develop electrolytic corrosion between the stainless and the carb body, causing the stainless pieces to seize to the carb body. When you go to undo them, the carb body will come off the worse. I would be more inclined to do as you suggest and use Admiralty Brass. The 1% tin being there to reduce the likely hood of verdigris developing.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Thanks to all who replied and special thanks to " ClassicBiker " for explaining how and why the Verdigris happens.
HOWEVER - like all good politicians , who never actually answer any question directly , I would ask for
opinions / answers as to its prevention or total cure. Some thoughts are :
Suggestion 1 Junk all the Brass bits and copy turn in Marine Grade Stainless Steel type 316.

Suggestion 2 Use Admiralty Brass ( D . G . Ships Spec 1942 Navy. )
I thought the answer was there don't use petrol with ethanol and if you do drain after a ride session
 

Speedtwin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I tend to run the carbs dry when storing.
I only use super unleaded fuel (High Octane 98 low ethanol content) with added Miller ethanol killer.
Use this in the more modern stuff also as I have seen some horror stuff on some friends machines, fuel lines turning to black gunge internally which were supposedly ethanol resistant.
If I store a bike with fuel in the tank, tank full with pure super unleaded 98 octane or Av gas if I have any floating about.
We are still E10 fuel free more or less in N Ireland our neighbours in Scotland are more and more on the E10.


Caution I had AVgas in my Comet last winter came into the garage very late one night to fetch a torch and thought that's a strange smell.
Floor covered in AVgas by the time I cleaned it up was as high as a kite,bonus!
That's when I decided to wear brightly coloured clothes and change from Ewart taps to modern stainless ball valve taps.

I like to clean my carb bits in the ultrasonic with 10 to 1 carb cleaner solution the only way to prevent fuel separation and the consequences is not to use ethanol fuels drain, dry and clean away the residual fuel.
 

powella

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Alyson ( Superwoman !!! ) is maybe correct in running the float chambers dry , removing the Jets , Needle and float , dry every thing then blow through with air. Seems to be the way to go.
Interesting to read about the Ewarts Petcocks Thanks to all.
 
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