I don’t have a full list of ‘ingredients ‘ used by Bob in the recipe, but think the four main ones were a massive dose of targeted leverage, an accurate jig, three cups of carefully applied heat and two appropriate prayers to the god of metal forging.
Vince Farrell
That was my recipe, though mine lacked the heat additive and the jig was very much ad hoc for one time use. I was praying my feel for metal was good enough to prevent me going too far with the leverage at the point where the entire UFM was bending , so my prayers were heartfelt. It did pretty much work and the steering axis is probably as normal now as any 66 year old Vincent that has been used a lot can be. What I did not address was the stretched out bottom bearing cup. It was a few thousandths wider laterally while being almost the correct ID dimension anterior/posterior. Whatever impact did the damage affected it that way, though I would have thought it would have been more along the AP axis. I imagine the forks were at almost right angles after the impact, judging from the steering stop. I will even have to add material or a mechanically fastened add on to the stop since it is so bent that the forks travel too far to the right, endangering the tank. I suppose heat or welding would shrink the pocket ovalness, but that would require re-machining the pocket. In my case the ovalness was small enough, and the location of the bearing cup correctly centered enough that gap filling loctite is an easy and probably good enough fix. Steve Hamel has a few pictures on his website where he removes and adds on a new bearing pocket at the top of one of these type 1 headstocks, and he used that one to make a few salt flat runs. Just another thing to look for when buying a UFM or headstock.
Ron