Tank mounting misalignment

Oldhaven

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VOC Member
I don’t have a full list of ‘ingredients ‘ used by Bob in the recipe, but think the four main ones were a massive dose of targeted leverage, an accurate jig, three cups of carefully applied heat and two appropriate prayers to the god of metal forging.

Vince Farrell

That was my recipe, though mine lacked the heat additive and the jig was very much ad hoc for one time use. I was praying my feel for metal was good enough to prevent me going too far with the leverage at the point where the entire UFM was bending , so my prayers were heartfelt. It did pretty much work and the steering axis is probably as normal now as any 66 year old Vincent that has been used a lot can be. What I did not address was the stretched out bottom bearing cup. It was a few thousandths wider laterally while being almost the correct ID dimension anterior/posterior. Whatever impact did the damage affected it that way, though I would have thought it would have been more along the AP axis. I imagine the forks were at almost right angles after the impact, judging from the steering stop. I will even have to add material or a mechanically fastened add on to the stop since it is so bent that the forks travel too far to the right, endangering the tank. I suppose heat or welding would shrink the pocket ovalness, but that would require re-machining the pocket. In my case the ovalness was small enough, and the location of the bearing cup correctly centered enough that gap filling loctite is an easy and probably good enough fix. Steve Hamel has a few pictures on his website where he removes and adds on a new bearing pocket at the top of one of these type 1 headstocks, and he used that one to make a few salt flat runs. Just another thing to look for when buying a UFM or headstock.

Ron
 

Bill Thomas

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VOC Member
I was always told Not to use Heat on Malable iron, If that is what it is, Anyway , It's nice to here Ron's Engine is running after all this time, Cheers Bill.
 

Oldhaven

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VOC Member
I was always told Not to use Heat on Malable iron, If that is what it is, Anyway , It's nice to here Ron's Engine is running after all this time, Cheers Bill.
Thanks for the thought Bill, and you are nearly right, but I am just now getting it finished. Probably another few days. Nice Christmas or New Year present to myself. Then I have to decide whether to try starting in my cellar, since riding is out of the question for 2-3 months, and I can't give it a proper break in until then. I have to find a few hefty fellas at that point to help me get it up the stairs safely.

I didn't feel good about heating the malleable either.

Guess we are off the thread now so enough of that, though this one seems to be a catch all for a lot of things. When I do get mine going, I won't be keeping it a secret, you can bet.

Ron
 

Vince Farrell

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VOC Member
Ever seen a hollow forging ?

Good point Trev, that’ll teach me to reply to posts in the middle of the night, and also take everything written in Know Thy Beast as ‘Gospel’.

See Third edition page 20 heading “The Steering Head Lug and Cylinder Head Brackets”

On Page 21 Ed also says the Type 3 is a malleable iron casting, isn’t that one a forging?

Vince Farrell
 

Tug Wilson

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Non-VOC Member
Good point Trev, that’ll teach me to reply to posts in the middle of the night, and also take everything written in Know Thy Beast as ‘Gospel’.

See Third edition page 20 heading “The Steering Head Lug and Cylinder Head Brackets”

On Page 21 Ed also says the Type 3 is a malleable iron casting, isn’t that one a forging?

Vince Farrell
Vince, have a good xmas and New Year, but why are you up with the lights on?
 
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