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Series D wiring harness

macvette

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
I need a harness for my open series D, not sure if the ones on the VOC spares co are for the open model. Anyone got any suggestions?
 

macvette

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Maybe I should have explained that I bought one a couple of years ago and tried to fit it today. It doesn't fit but I can't remember where I got it VOC or VinParts. It looks to me it's for an enclosed D.
 

macvette

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Is there anyone on the forum who owns an open series D and who would be willing to answer some detailed questions on the wiring such as routing etc.

Regards Mac
 

vince998

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi Macvette,
I could tell you how i´ve done mine, but don´t ask me if its original or not.
The harness i made up years ago but since then there have been a few mods (electronic ignition, relocation of horn, twin fire dynas etc), and hence a relocation of a few wires.
 

Deroberson

Active Website User
VOC Member
http://www.riwire.com/

Hi Mac

This is the only soruce I could find, I bought my harness a little over a year ago, seem to remeber it being a little spendy but what isn't for these machines. I would be glad to send pics as well, as a matter of fact I remember that they send a wiring schematic to reference what they used for the build. All braidind and conections look to be correct for the period as well as wire colors for the schematic.

I will dig it out and see if I can recall any notables, specifically, we D people have a couple of references that refer to postive or negative earth systems. I recall that KTB states that the D wiring diagram specifying a positive earth system was an error.

Any confirmation on this?

Dave
 

Deroberson

Active Website User
VOC Member
Mac

Glad this came up, hopefully I will be at this stage soon.

KTB page 164 refers to the error in the schematic of the horns power supply being interupted by the brake light switch, and that the diagram shows a positive eartch, most Series D had a negative earth (mine upon disasembly was a positive earth, but I do not know if the wiring was original)

Vincent by Richardson, page 183 says the positive terminal is earthed after Frame No. RD12870 (mine is RD12776B)

JP Bickerstaff's, The Original Vincent page 118 refers to the same wiring diagram error as stated in KTB

My harness schematic from Rhode Island Wiring indicates a positve earth, with two seperate leads for the horn and two seprerate leads for stoplight switch, independent of each other, which on paper and in thoery seem correct. My reality maybe very different.

Dave
 

mercurycrest

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi Mac;
My open D has the original wiring harness. Short of disassembling the bike, maybe I can help you. It's pretty brittle, so I don't want to disturb it more than needed.
Cheers, John
 

macvette

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Hi
Thank you all for the replies. My bike came with a really horrble harness but it worked properly. The bike was negative earth and the dip switch was wired through a changeover relay to avoid having the main headlight supply through the dip switch and I'm going to repeat this. I'm wiring up 6V negative earth and using a solid state regulator housed in the original (brass ) regulator housing. The wiring diagram in Vincent motorcycles shows the brake light switch being supplied from the -ve side of the horn whilst the horn is supplied from from the -ve side of the ammeter. This looks ok to me and the new( useless) harness is made up that way. I've more or less made up my mind to make up my own harness . The questions I have are:- Having routed the rear light wiring through the rear mud guard stay, the connectors are just to the rear of the rfm pivot. Is this where they should be or should they be further foward? Where precisely did the original horn go and do you know if anyone supplies them? Approx how long is the braiding at the front of the loom and does it go through the grommet into the headlight? Is it correct to assume that the brake light wires are carried inside the headlight in the main loom and exit through the smaller hole in the headlight shell (the one on the right of the shell looking forward from the seat). Which hole does the dip/horn lead go through in the headlight shell , large or small? Was the original loom cloth braided at the front? Hope someone can help I'm very disappointed with the new loom I bought, the binding tape is coming off and its about six inches too short .
Regards Mac
 
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mercurycrest

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi Mac.
On my bike the big hole is the only one with wires entering. The hole on the upper right is for the speedo trip reset. The loom has a plastic sheath/jacket starting under the tank. the wires to the brake switch come from under the tank inside a small plastic sheath/jacket. The dip switch wiring is in it's own plastic sheath/jacket and goes into the big hole too. The horn is mounted on the headstock under the tank. You should obtain a D Spares List Book. If I remember, it shows horn location, etc.
Hope this helps, John
 

macvette

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Hi John
Please don't dismantle anything on my behalf. If you could just look at how it is set up wrt the questions I'm asking, that will be good enough.
Regards Mac
 

macvette

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Hi John,
Sorry didn't realise you had made two posts. I have the spares list and it has a drawing but doesn't show the horn in situ, however, my headstock has two tapped holes which I think must be for the horn. My headlight has two grommet holes in addition to the speedo trip reset, the main one and one below that. I checked my photos that I took before stripping the bike and although the harness was not original, the brake light wires exit the headlight shell through the second smaller grommet and done properly it will look very neat. Once again, thanks for the replies but please, don't disturb anything on you bike if you can't anwer by just looking
Regards Mac
 

mercurycrest

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi Mac;
I just realized the first Illustration in KTB is of the D UFM. It shows the horn and how it's mounted. On my bike the cloth sheathing is only on the area covered by the tank and seat. The wires to the tail light died in the mid Seventies and I replaced them with a more modern automotive wire. My original Red Dot Ammeter melted about that time too, so I highly recomend a fuse in the Battery to Ground wire. Dave Hills had some new faces made up and I discovered that the ammeter on an (at least my 1987 one) Indian Enfield has a proper size ammeter with a window for the lamp to shine through and the needle in the proper location. They're inexpensive too. Nice looking Sting Ray in your picture. Is it a 63 or 64. & which engine? They're even fairly rare in the States.
Cheers, John
 

macvette

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Hi John,
Just looked in KTB and found the illustration although I didn't find a wiring diagram. There is a wiring diag. in the spares list (mo 108) and this shows the horn and stoplight wired as I described before. I'll take you advice on fusing. When you say that the sheathing is only under the tank and seat, does this mean that you have a bunch of wires going through the main grommet rather than a single sheated bunch?
The corvette is a 63 Split window which I've had for 20 years. I got it when I was working in Canada and I'm the 3rd owner. I shipped it to Belgium when I went there after Canada and drove it home when I left Belgium for Thailand. It's the 340 hp version, engine balanced and blueprinted in the factory, 4 speed close ratio box with a Positraction 3.70 rear end. The engine is the same as the fuel injected cars but has a Carter ABF instead of fuel injection. 1500 were made like this. It's nos matching and has 70,000 miles. If I knew how to put an image in this message for you, I would.
Regards Mac
 

mercurycrest

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
When you say that the sheathing is only under the tank and seat, does this mean that you have a bunch of wires going through the main grommet rather than a single sheated bunch?

Hi Mac,
No, The Cloth is only under the tank and seat.Where the wires go to anything exposed they have black plastic sheathing. I'm still trying to wrap my brain around blasting at speed down one of those narrow Brit. pathways they call roads at speed in a car that steers on the left and is nearly irreplaceable. Sounds like great fun!
Cheers, John
 

macvette

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
I wish I was doing it on my Vincent but the engine has been away now three years. Maybe this year!
I know it's not a Vincent topic but I'll post a couple of photos in the gallery. I'm a member of the Teesside Yesteryear Motor Club www.tymc.org.uk . It's a very active club with about 300 members evenly split between bikes and cars with quite a few members in both camps. There are least 6 Vincent twins in there. During the summer there are runs every Monday evening again a mixture of bikes and cars and the club organises some of the best know gatherings in the Northeast in support of the great North air ambulance. I live in N.Yorks which has some of the best biking roads in the uk and although some aren't suitable for the Corvette, there is a good selection that is although you can't beat riding them on a bike. Any hoo the Vette gets it's legs stretched on a regular basis and whilst keeping up with moden traffic isn't a problem, with drum brakes stopping is. I get quite a kick out of baiting modern sports cars with the straight line acceleration. Regards Mac
 

piggywig

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Mac,
I have a D spares catalogue of 50's vintage that depicts wiring diagram for open & closed models, also a detail of wiring harness make-up showing where various wires leave the main harness, all complete with fixed price list (obviously before inflation was invented)! If of any help it can be scanned and emailed or alternatively the relevant pages can be unclipped and mailed for you to copy.
Col.
 

macvette

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Hi Col,
That would be tremendous. If you can scan and email I can deal with that, wouldn't like to see the pages lost in the post.
Regards Mac
 
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