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Series A Rocker Oil Feed Adjusters

A_HRD

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Very much a long shot, I know; but over the years, some people have made themselves rocker oil-feed adjusters
(that screw in to the cam box) comprising a tapered needle and locknut - enabling flow adjustment to be made externally while the engine is running. Clearly, a much better solution to the original set-up where you have to remove the feed-pipe to make adjustments - probably multiple times for each rocker until it's correct.

So my question is, does anyone have any such devices on the shelf, doing nothing, which could be swapped for appropriate beer tokens? I'll need four - but even 2 would help!

Peter B
 

Vincent Brake

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
A short cut Peter.

You have a drawing?
Gives me something to divert from other thoughts....

Cheers
 

A_HRD

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi Vincent,

Thank You for your interest.
I've just done a 'quick and dirty' sketch to give you an idea.
The original was a two-piece item with the taper needle inside pointing down!
The vertical heights and the 1/8" BSP threads are particularly important. So is the 0.525" hex.
Material is brass.
Your ideas for a good way of sealing the taper needle would be welcomed.

Just say if you don't want to be involved...

Peter B

P1090164.jpg
 
Last edited:

A_HRD

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Bruce,
Maybe that would be the easiest solution, if available.
Others ideas welcome too.
Peter B
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
If I have understood it properly then a flat bottomed recess to take an 'o' ring which is proud by five thou and then the lock nut traps that 'o' ring and compresses it. You would not even see it.
 

Robert Watson

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VOC Member
Peter, later today I will dig out the solution that was put on my A twin back in the day, which I didn't find and figure out what they were until I had made all new bits in SS !!!!!!
 

A_HRD

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
If I have understood it properly then a flat bottomed recess to take an 'o' ring which is proud by five thou and then the lock nut traps that 'o' ring and compresses it. You would not even see it.
Yes indeed, and it would be easier to machine the locknut - especially if it were one hex size up...
Peter B
 

Robert Watson

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I looked for the ones that came on my A to no avail. There were a bit like a banjo bolt in that the oil lines came out at 90 degrees to what is standard and had needle adjusters in the vertical position going straight down where the banjo bolt normally goes. Also all the pictures I have from back in the day either don't show that side or show the originals.
 

A_HRD

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Thank you for taking the time to search, Robert! Tomorrow go and look for something entirely different; you're sure to find the oil widget thingies...

Meanwhile, let's wait and see what Vincent B thinks about making a few....

Peter B
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
It´s not my business but cannot see how an o-ring might seal the threads of the adjusting screw. You´d have to squeeze the o-ring out of shape extremely for it to enter the depth of the thread completely. Instead I´d take a short bit of teflon tape on the screw at the inner end so the nut will compress the lot so no oil creeps along the thread.

Vic
 

vin998

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VOC Member
VOC Forum Moderator
On my Shadow I had an annoying oil leak on the primary chain adjuster, coming down the threads and it is just the same setup as the suggested A adjuster with a threaded locknut. I tried every type of seal and none worked as the oil was coming down the threads, but I did eventually seal it with teflon tape just how Vic suggests, with tape around the exposed adjuster and then the locknut run up to position and tightened which forces the tape into the threads.

Simon
 

Robert Watson

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VOC Member
Well it isn't tomorrow but I was digging in the depths of the shelves and found the tin with OIL PUMP PARTS written on it and lo and behold.

So here are a couple of pictures. As I said the oil lines come out horizontal and then made an S curve up to the rocker spindles.

Any questions just ask.


20200703_105653.jpg20200703_105746.jpg

Robert
 

Marcus Bowden

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
My rocker oil feeds are on maximum all the time and I have a reasonable indication with visual sight glasses (plastic tubes) to each rocker. The original metering screws have been removed but there is primus stove pricker hole metering the flow. The pump body drilling has been used to fix a plastic tube to that is before the rocker orifice that is 0.6 mm diameter so it indicates pump pressure. The plastic pipe is extended to the handlebars where it is plugged off, later to be fitted with a clear volumes container so it should fill and keep a visual reading, at the moment of startup it rises to about mid tank level but drops to engine top-level, when warm. difficult to observe. Hence the reason my "B" has a gauge at the handlebars that registers 14.7 psi. (1.0 bar), with the slightly bigger Honda pump now fitted that feeds the cam rail with a control valve to adjust pressure with surplus going to B/end as the temperature fluctuates also double start Pickador pump. PCV did mention in one of his wrightings that he should have kept the gear pump.
last tappet adjustment was when I had my stainless pipes made by Chris Knibbs NZ before that was early 2016, then 2500 miles Route 66 then about the same in Tasmania and then 1200 doing NZ riders rally 2017, prior to the NZ national annual Chris K had my pipes off as it's only necessary for the front inlet to adjust tappet. then it was insignificant to record, so I consider it's very good and ready to go again when Vincent wants to pick it up? Haven't cleaned it as the oily patina keeps it in good condition, but my "B" is ready to go as it was fitted with new plugs oil change and a wash off & polish, see my shoes in the timing cover.
bananaman


IMG_2349 2.jpeg
OIL PIPES ALTERED SO I COULD FIT SECOND PLUG, ROCKER PIN HEXAGON REDUCE
SO A SMALL SPANNER WILL FIT MORE EASILY 1/8th BSP BANJO BOLTS WITH 3/8"A/F

IMG_2351.jpeg


PLASTIC TUBE UP BETWEEN CABLES & PLUGGED OFF

IMG_2352.jpeg
"B" CONSUL WITH TURNING BANANA AMP & VOLTMETER PLUS THE PRESSURE GAUGE SAME CAMS FOR OVER 300K

IMG_2348.jpeg

SAME CARB JET FITTED BUT CAN BE SHUT OFF WITH VALVE, BALL BEARING REMOVED AS IF HONDA PUMP FAILS THE BALL WILL LIFT AND SUPPLY A DRIBBLE TO THE CAMS ! ! NOTICE THAT POLISH ? DON'T NORMALLY GET IT HAT GOOD.

IMG_2353.jpeg
 

Marcus Bowden

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Peter my handsome, it's not everyone that think of these weird and wonderful ideas but it works for me, and I'm itching to get the "A" Comet back from Bill Parr and complete it as there I have made a plain floating bush B/E and increased the oil supply pump capacity by half as much again by deepening the case and fitting 3/16" wide gears. reducing the orifice to rocker spindles so will have to fit some kind of seal to the oil quill but can anyone tell me what pressure can be generated from centrifugal force whilst it's sucking oil along the main shaft to the B/E.?
 

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