Rattley twin clutch??

[b'knighted]

I detested fighting the straight slotted countersunk screws especially as once the head has started into the countersink a full width screwdriver couldn't be used.

I developed a system to make life easier. First I obtained 2BA countersunk socket head screws but the Allen key that fits them is like a hexagonal hair and was uncomfortable and difficult to use when compressing the springs. The compromise is to insert a long 2BA studs in the centre hole of each group of three and to spin nuts down them ( I use a wooden handled box spanner) Once the C27 plate is pulled down inserting the screws is much easier. The screws spin in without pressure and just need nipping up. It is equally easy to then replace the three long studs with the final Allen screws. The studs and small box spanner take little space in the tool kit and are accompanied by ¼ whit studs to locate primary drive and gaskets and timing chest covers while the screws are inserted.

 

[vince998]

Hi Ian, thanks for the tip.
Extremly usefull at the rear of the timing cover (next to gearbox cover) and rear of primary cover where the gasket has an annoying habit of folding double!!.
Only happened once to me, but just before a rally and the bike was fully packed up, and bloody annoying it was to (just had a shower and was all brill creamed up expecting to jump on the bike and go.) First traffic light i looked down at the road and thought "somebodys got problems". second traffic light i realised it was me!

Using the 3 studs and nuts to compress the springs with the ring, have you noticed if the ring deforms?
I always do each screw up a little at a time to avoid this. (mines full of holes al a swiss cheese. Makes me go faster probably )

 

[b'knighted]

Hi Vince,

I like the avatar which shows the eyes rolling. I assume it is new but if you look back to previous posts to check it is on them all.

When pulling the springs down with the plate you obviously tighten each a little at a time so it stays level(ish). Once they are tight the plate is flat down on all the springs so the countersunk screws do not have to do any of the compression. If your plate is more flexible you could use an extra ring, with six of its holes big enough for the screw heads to pass through, to hold it all flat until six of the screws are in. this would then be removed with the studs.
I had wanted to find countersunk shakeproof washer for the slotted screws but don't feel the need now I know that they are nipped up without fighting th springs.
The wooden handled box spanner is like a screwdriver handle on a hexagonal tube and was in my Knight toolkit already as I also use it as handle for cover screw Allen keys. It lets you apply torque to the short end of the Allen key while using the long ball end in the screw head. It was just lucky that it was 2BA as it’s the only one I've got and is probably as old as the bike.

I find that the little tricks have reduced the amount that I oil my foot rest rubbers.

 

[John Appleton]

Hi Vince, I have been waiting with to hear (or not) the results of your attempts to quieten that rattle. Were you succesful or do you still have a well-investigated noise?

John (or is it Pete?)

 

[Tracey Tilley]

"To overcome the name confusion, the south Wales S.O. has resorted to calling us the "Appleton Brothers" and we have agreed to answer to either John or Pete, whoever she happens to be talking to, as we do when anybody else mixes us up"

That's not true John.
The "Appleton brothers" came from the Severn one year when they were presenting awards.

 

[John Appleton]

OOPS! John

 

[Alan J]

Thank you for the "confusion!!"-I'll go and think about this "thread!'-See you all at "Kettering on Saturday!?

 

[Simon Dinsdale]

Thank you for the "confusion!!"-I'll go and think about this "thread!'-See you all at "Kettering on Saturday!?

Sorry, but this weekend is the East Midlands section rally. Come and support Kim and Andrew.

 

[vince998]

Hi John,
Thanks for asking.
The noise is as you mention "well investigated" but still there.
as far as i can tell, it´s not causing damage/wear, so i´m just enjoying the weather and doing a lot of miles.
After 1500 miles, the clutch internals are still perfectly dry (maybe a bit of oil in there would quieten things down )
Once i get enough time to fiddle, i´ll experiment with spacing the inner primary plate out from the clutch centre, and get back to you.
One thing i have noticed is i can reproduce the noise on a static engine by prodding the kickstarter. Seems to be the driving clutch shoes banging up against the new drum (maybe Russel could tune them to flat C for the future), or the torque arm pins contacting the back of the pressure plate.
As mentioned before, the clutch is working great and only produces a clatter at tickover. Luckily there are no traffic lights around me in a 50 mile radius, so all i have to do is time the roundabouts correctly for a quiet ride

 

[John Appleton]

Keep at it Vince, you would think a noise as loud as that would be dead easy to find-- but obviously not. I think your plan is best...ride it and enjoy it. As we tell our customers "it could be one of three things sir, if we just let it develop a little while longer it will save you a lot of unnecessary expense". (Clever receptionist excuse book page 197).

John