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Quaife/Surtees overshifting

Monkeypants

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VOC Member
My Quaife five speed new install is overshifting consistently. This cannot be adjusted out as there is too much travel in the mechanism. There is no mention of this problem in the instructions that came with the gearkit.
I checked with John Mcdougall, who installed a Quaife in his Black Shadow about the same time I purchased my kit from Surtees Sports Power. John purchased his kit thru Kemps. His bike also overshifted with the Quaife, or rather would have, except a separate sheet detailing the use of two small parts dealt with the problem.
The parts are a ring that fits over the centre peg of the G49 and a new larger diameter stop pin for G66.
I have checked with Quaife and waited for a response, however the lady who takes all calls does not know anything about this and forgot to take my question up with someone who might.
In searching the internet I did find an old MPH article that discusses use of the small alloy ring and the new, larger diameter stop pin for G66. Clearly these parts are needed for my setup. I am thinking the easiest might be to make them. Does anyone have dimensions for them, or even just the diameter.
I suspect that the extra instruction sheet and two little parts that were missing from my kit but present in John's kit may be something that Kemp's have learned to include but Surtees has not.

Glen
 
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Monkeypants

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VOC Member
Sorry, I should have written " I have checked with Surtees Sports Power" I think they will eventually get back to me with some sort of info, however days are going by and the bike is apart because of the shifting problem. I am itching to get it back on the road to complete the break-in.
Feel like a 14 year old kid on this. They do not seem to comprehend the serious nature :D of the situation.
Glen
 
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vibrac

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VOC Member
I have never heard of a ring and bigger pin but like many others my quaife worked out of the box better than stock
quaife or not if you are not using a kick start I would recommend modifying G61 by bending the ears flat and brazing 2 X 1/4" Bsf nuts on edge to it and then using 2 cap screws to control the throw of the arm exactly. (see 40 years on) I am told this gets in the way of the kick start spring but as my quaife was on a racer I have no experience of that
 

Monkeypants

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VOC Member
Hi Tim. Unfortunately it is a kickstart bike so that mod is out, although it sounds like a good one. The g61 on this bike will need the ears doubled up for thickness to the inside. John Mcdougall tells me that he also brazed some tiny gussets onto the ears on his Shadow in order to keep them from bending.
The adjustable idea is nice, since the g 61 itself is adjustable and may not always stay in the same location, meaning the position of the ears would need to be changed if the centralizer is moved. This doesn't occur with the stock setup, nor will it with my thickened up and gussetted affair. I might ponder the possibility of using the brazed on nut method and see if clearance can still be found for the KS spring.
I went ahead and made a couple of aluminium sleeves at .50" OD as a guess, put things back together and the bike now shifts nicely. It will be interesting to see what the Surtees information is on this.
Glen
 

Vincent Brake

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VOC Member
Gents, to adjust my stnrd box I have one of those new billet alu G49 milled out on the throw ( that is around the spring pin), and then taped it with 6 mm to take up 2 setscrews, limiting the travel of arm G66, could this help here?
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hi Tim. Unfortunately it is a kickstart bike so that mod is out, although it sounds like a good one. The g61 on this bike will need the ears doubled up for thickness to the inside. John Mcdougall tells me that he also brazed some tiny gussets onto the ears on his Shadow in order to keep them from bending.
The adjustable idea is nice, since the g 61 itself is adjustable and may not always stay in the same location, meaning the position of the ears would need to be changed if the centralizer is moved. This doesn't occur with the stock setup, nor will it with my thickened up and gussetted affair. I might ponder the possibility of using the brazed on nut method and see if clearance can still be found for the KS spring.
I went ahead and made a couple of aluminium sleeves at .50" OD as a guess, put things back together and the bike now shifts nicely. It will be interesting to see what the Surtees information is on this.
Glen
Yes let me know, as when I get the next 5 speed it will be for a road bike. advantage of the "nuts" route is than each side can adjust independent of the other (apart from the quality what I like about the 5 speed is not the 5th speed but the higher bottom gear)
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Gents, to adjust my stnrd box I have one of those new billet alu G49 milled out on the throw ( that is around the spring pin), and then taped it with 6 mm to take up 2 setscrews, limiting the travel of arm G66, could this help here?
Its an idea but leverage is low that near the pivot of lever and a small movement there is a lot at the far end better to control at the end where adjustment can be more precise, I would think -still let us know
 

greg brillus

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VOC Member
On a similar but different note......I have one of Terry Princes 5 speeds in the racer, and I am finding it difficult to find neutral both when stationary and whilst moving. The clutch is a Bob Newby multi plate, and seems to be freeing off ok, that is that it doesn't seem to be dragging. Has anyone noticed if the dogs on the 5 speed gears have a backgrind on them.....? If I move the shift lever or select gears using the gear indicator lever (without the engine running), it shifts nicely from 1st to neutral then 2nd and back down again without any issues. I am using Morris MLR 40 castor oil in the gearbox, and the engine (Your favorite Tim...!!) Any thoughts or ideas anyone..? Or is it because it is all still new, and needs more run in time. Cheers .......Greg.
 
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