Pyluminising the unknown practice....

greg brillus

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Hi all. Ok this is my first effort at posting some photo's on this forum with the help of my better half.....It is about the subject of Pyluminising, which is a process known to Vincent's with black painted crankcases, and I guess may well also have been used on Flashes as well. If I am incorrect on any of the following, I would be more than happy for others to join in and help, but this is my take on it, and it stems from the experience I have had working in Aviation to somewhere near correct. It is a process that involved the dipping of alloy engine parts into a solution which etches into the porous surface in a similar way to how the old anodizing pots and pans used to be years ago. Although the term pyluminised does not exist any more, it is still used in aviation, in a form that uses a solution known as Alodine. This may well be no more than a company name, but it is the only one I know of, and aircraft parts including sheetmetal are prepared by thorough cleaning first, then submerged into a tank of this solution for around 30 to 45 seconds. After which, you remove from the tank and hose off with a jet of water. This process is a corrosion barrier, and given that alloy engine parts on Shadows and similar where not primed with paint as such, perhaps this was the next best thing. It may well have been done to save on the extra thickness a paint etch primer would have created, as we know the original paint was quite thin, and it's quality was very high. The Pyluminised process would have added no extra thickness in any way, and gave the paint something to adhere to. In my photos you will see the two covers I have just paint stripped (literally today) and you can see that the kickstart cover still shows the Pyluminise finish under the original paint. The timing cover has also been stripped, but you can see it's external finish has been either lightly sanded, or possibly sand blasted, and has lost its coating.....It is still however visible on the inside of both covers. You can see around the inspection cap hole on the kickstart cover, that the original finish has been polished away, and you can still see the initials of the previous owner, who had owned this Shadow since 1961.....He stamped most of the major parts in an effort to avoid theft.......Seems even all those years ago, that owners thought their bikes more valuable than most. If anyone else can add to this, that would be great, but I just wanted to show some who may not understand what this mysterious process used by the factory was all about......Cheers........Greg.
 

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Magnetoman

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Whenever anything new has been written about Vincent paint over the past ~20 years (as well as information in KTB, Richardson, and back issues of MPH) I've added it to a notebook. For what it's worth, and making no representation that any of the following is actually correct, here's what has been written about "pyluminisation" that at least sounds authoritative:

Appendix I of KNB
...the following engine parts were "pyluminised" (a chromate anti-corrosion and priming treatment) and enameled black... The original Pinchin & Johnson cycle stove enamel was baked at a temperature of 300 to 320 deg. f (150 to 160 deg. C) for 2 hours ... on alloy and steel parts alike.

R. Brumwell in MPH 231
Pyluminizing. This is an Alkali-Chromate process applicable to aluminum and its alloys and produces an iridescent or uniform grey-black coating. The coating is very much softer than those produced by Anodizing, and although it will increase the resistance of aluminium to corrosion (where there is no risk of damage by abrasion or handling) it is almost invariably used as a base treatment for paint. Treatment is carried out by immersion for 5-10 mins. in the hot, almost boiling solution... The solution is prepared by the addition of 12 ozs. of Pylumin powder per gallon of water... Providing the non-ferrous metal surface has received the Pyluminizing treatment and an adequate thickness of pain is applied under good conditions, the painting of non-ferrous metals presents no particular difficulties. Some types of paint, however, unsuitable for use with aluminium such as Lead containing primers...

Interestingly, the MPH reference implies one could buy "Pylumin" powder at the time. A search of the web for 'pylumin', again without representing any of the following as correct, found the following:

'Bengough and Stuart process (chromic acid) anodizing was applied for protection of seaplane parts. 3% chromic acid at 100 to 115 F. The color of chromic acid anodizing fits the grey to dark grey range. British Patent 223,994 (1924)

Pylumin Process; aluminium immersed in sodium carbonate (7%), sodium
chromate (2.3%), basic chromium carbonate (0.5%) plus sodium hydroxide
(0.5%) solution at 70 C. Resistance coating used as a paint base.


However, one source that sounds like it's probably a completely authoritative description of the process does exist:

UK National Archives
Reference: AVIA 7/2833
Description:
Pylumin process for protection of aluminium
Date: 1936-1938
Held by: The National Archives, Kew
Former reference in its original department: M535

"This record has not been digitised and cannot be downloaded. Request a quotation for a copy to be digitised or printed and sent to you."
 

Chris Launders

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A friend of mine "chromates" his own manx magnesium parts, crankcases, camboxes, hubs etc black, if the solution is fresh (by which I assume he means strong) it will also do alluminium, he is only using about 70 degrees, would this be a similar solution, next time I speak to him I will ask the exact compostion of it.
Chris.
 

Gene Nehring

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Hi Greg,

Would you use something like an alumi-prep and then alodine the items? I wonder if you could use the alumi-prep to clean the oil out the porous aluminum before welding repair say.

I have used the process when repairing corrosion on our De-Havilland Beaver seaplanes. It works very well even for touch ups.
 

Magnetoman

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upload_2014-12-28_11-48-6.png

OK, I hope this works. I found the original patent, made a jpeg of it, and inserted it in this message. However, it's not clear from the 'Preview' whether or not it's going to work as intended when I hit 'Reply'. So, fingers crossed, here goes...
 
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Magnetoman

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Oops, it's larger than intended as well as shows up twice. Sorry. (Duplicate now deleted.)
 
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clevtrev

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Pyluminising, superseded by Alochrom 1200, that now being phased out, Chromic. you know, now Iridite is the preferred one to use. Whereas Py. was an electrolytic process, the other two are purely a clean and dip treatment, but do exactly the same job. Something I get done every week. Ideally the paint process, if necessary, needs to be applied within 30 minutes.
 

greg brillus

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Interesting that it was applied in an electrolytic manner. The colour described is different to what I found under the old paint.....Mine was more of a bronze/ gold colour, which I found is a similar colour to the modern alodine finish I referred to earlier. As Trev said, it is a similar process, but much easier to do with out the use of anodes /electricity and so on. The cleaning of porous castings that are impregnated in oil/carbon is always an issue....I think the use of heat works best.....I give many of my parts to some friends of mine that run an engine reconditioning shop, and get them to put the parts in their HOT tank. This helps remove most of the oil and deposits. The use of top quality modern paints does a fantastic job, trying to keep the coats as thin as possible. The primer we use is quite a bright yellowy green colour, and difficult to cover with one coat of Black, so usually do a thin first coat, then a heavier top coat to finish......And keep the area around the engine number very thin, to keep the numbers visible. Does anyone else have any pictures of parts with the Pylumin finish still visible....? Most parts get sand blasted, and the finish is then lost all together. I do not bother to go to the trouble of alodining these parts, as I feel the paint I am using works well enough.....I haven't to this date, had any issues with paint lifting off, only in one instance where it was constantly exposed to modern petrol.....Now what will handle that....?
 

Magnetoman

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Does anyone else have any pictures of parts with the Pylumin finish still visible....?
Your wish is my command.

I moved to a new house earlier this fall and have spent most of whatever spare time I've had since then getting my garage/workshop fully functional. As a result the following micrographs aren't up to standards. However, they should do. (again, apologies in advance if something goes wrong with attaching images).

I have no way of knowing for sure, but indications are that what remains of the paint on the valve covers is original to my 1950 Black Shadow. What the following four photographs show are successive magnifications of the round chip in the middle of the cover directly below the 'E'. The thickness of the paint is clearly apparent in the third micrograph and it is thick enough that the finite depth of field makes it impossible to simultaneously focus on the top of the paint and the Al underneath (there is a way around this limitation but I didn't take the time to deal with it for this micrograph). The stage of my microscope is calibrated so by focusing on the top, and then on the Al, it's possible to determine the thickness of the paint. It's ~0.0015"-0.002" thick.

I'll probably do more with this sometime in the future after I have my equipment properly set up.
Paint01.jpg
Paint02.jpg
Paint03.jpg
Paint04.jpg
 

Magnetoman

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VOC Member
this is the first valve cover cap that I have seen that went thru the factory process to turn aluminum Vincent parts black.
Thank you for your positive contribution to this discussion. I read Greg's last post on my iPhone as I was about to leave the garage and grabbed the easiest piece to remove.
 
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