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Plywood seat base


alan1961

New Website User
VOC Member
Hi, has anyone got a copy of the drawing with the dims for the plywood seat base please?
The one in the 'Know thy Beast' I have shows it being about 4ft long :(
Thanks in anticipation
 

Marcus Bowden

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Aluminum I used in 1965 whilst in HMD Devonport, as my original was getting a little tired and breaking up round the edges, now it's the mainstay of my pannier system.
 

Oldhaven

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I would use any dimensioned drawing as a guide only or for placing the supports. I found when I redid mine that seat foams vary a bit and you can end up either an oversize or undersized plywood base in length, width or shape. Oversize plywood will create an unsightly and possibly uncomfortable ledge and wear spots . Undersize will not support the foam and cover correctly.
 

Robert Watson

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Plus I think these days (At least in this part of the world) you would be hard pressed to even find any plywood that wasn't constructed with waterproof glue, which is the reason for spec'ing marine plywood!
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
If you are going to make a new base then use a product like Penetrol to seal the surfaces. Drill all the holes then brush at least two coats (wet on wet). I then painted the base in black paint as per original. Also it is a good idea to sand any sharp edges around the perimeter. Do not be tempted to use staples either, they are just a lazy and ugly fix.
 

Kester_Marsh

New Website User
VOC Member
I have noticed that at least one supplier is offering "Feriridax" badges that are complete with rivets, where are they supposed to be fitted to the seat ?
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I am putting together a long seat. From when I had my standard seat reupholstered in 1987, my recollection is that the internal stiffening angles were 1/2" on each side. Is that correct?

Also, It seems like making them longer to reach the same spot relative to the back of the seat is a good idea.
 

Dave61

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Aluminum I used in 1965 whilst in HMD Devonport, as my original was getting a little tired and breaking up round the edges, now it's the mainstay of my pannier system.
Hi Marcus,
What thickness Aluminium did you use ?
Cheers
Dave
 

MSVH Y3

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I used 1/4 inch plate as suggested by John McDougal. Powder coated. Works well.
 

MSVH Y3

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
On the Comet seat I did not use the angle braces. I believe John said they were not necessary. On the second seat for the twin I just got a seat kit from the Sares Co. and used that. Another benefit, you can fix the cover on properly. No more finding big tacks falling out and coming to rest on the RFM.
 

Marcus Bowden

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
1/4" of best quality admiralty aluminium made during the week, then in on Saturday mornings to get things out with a note of authority from the apprentice training centre foreman Ben Stevens, all my pannier system is mounted onto it and the last hole on each side of the footrest plates, note angle of support tubes is the same as rear lifting handle and old seat stays still being utilised as dampers which was well used in NZ when Armstrong damper failed, what a side stand too, a pad that would not sink into a fresh Cow pad with a pin locking it into position and rear stand that my 80 + year old wife can use to put me and all the luggage secure with me of cause using front brake and body jerks, then able to climb off when all is safely secured.
Things we think of so we can still use them although not yet strong enough to take it off the side stand.

28469
 

davidd

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I did not take dimensions when I did this seat, but the photos should be of some use.
Stock Seat 1.jpg

Stock Seat 2.jpg

Stock Seat 3.jpg
You may notice in the full seat base photos that four of the nuts are painted black. They are SS nuts tacked on to the angle. I did this for the four nuts that accept the bolts for the tool box mount. It seemed to me that you did not want these nuts floating free inside the seat as the might not line up easily if you remount or change the toolbox.
Stock Seat 6.jpg

Stock Seat 9.jpg
I make sure the foam sits flat because it makes it easier to cover. This seat is still in service after 20 years, so there have been no issues.
Seat Cover 2.jpg

The "Feridax" was often painted on, but the medallion goes in the same place. The original "pebble" style of vinyl is difficult to find.

David
 

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