• Welcome to the website of the Vincent H.R.D. Owners Club.

    Should you have any questions relating to the Vincent H.R.D. Owners Club, or Vincent H.R.D. motorcycles in general, please contact Graham Smith, Hon. Editor and Webmaster by calling 07977 001 025 or please CLICK HERE.

    You are unrecognised, and therefore, only have VERY restricted access to the many features of this website.

    If you have previously registered to use this forum, you should log in now. CLICK HERE.

    If you have never registered to use this website before, please CLICK HERE.

ET: Engine (Twin) Oil Filter Screw Cap


greg brillus

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi there Bill, yes i know what you mean, I'm just trying to help with an engine rebuild of a 1200 Vincent road racing outfit, and the owner is really struggling to come to grips with the costs, given his background is on Triumphs..........I can see myself walking away from the job.
 

Len Matthews

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Not yet Len. Frankly the garage is too cold at the moment for these old bones.

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I will keep all posted as to the outcome.
Hugo
How about applying some heat with a blow torch but be careful not to burn the plug leads!
 

Hugo Myatt

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
EUREKA! We have it!

My salvation came this morning in the shape of Peter Holmes bearing a selection of K1s and a hefty lump hammer. My apologies to Roy. We tried all the K1s including mine except for one. None would fit the hexagon due to excess of crankcase casting. The final K1 had had the periphery relieved in a most artistic manner - a thing of great elegance, if not strength. It fitted but simply distorted on the first tap of the hammer. Back to the box spanner. Utilising a 15inch tommybar (a Series D footrest hanger bolt now defunct due to a sudden lack of trueness) with me holding the box spanner in place whilst Peter applied foot pressure on the end of the bar and suddenly Hey Presto the cap moved. Hurray! No - the threads were not crossed but I have misled you all and myself. It was not Blue Hylomar. It was old fashioned Red Hermatite. I can only imagine that I used up the last of it on the filter cap and told myself that next time I would have to use the Hylomar.

Many thanks to everyone for your advice and consideration. Many thanks, Peter. I am greatly relieved having been imagining all manner of ghastly scenarios.

Long live the club and the forum!

Hugo
 

Sakura

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Red Hermatite There's something better for any application on a motor vehicle.
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Same thing happened when I used a K1 that had been relieved. Destroyed itself. I now use a 1 11/16" socket.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Relived mine works ok excessive force is not required when doing up
I won't modify my Canadian k1 with the corkscrew addition though
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I worry about you chaps. Do you tighten your tappet inspection caps so tight that you cannot get them undone? The oil filter cap has the same spanner, K1, and really should not need more tightening. Eating too much meat, or wearing lederhosen could be the cause of all this testosterone fuelled energy.
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
On my part it is all about space. I can undo the cap easily with the socket but no room for a K1. How did Phil and Phil think about this? Inspection caps are a light "snick" with one finger but the oil cap is two fingers.
 

peter holmes

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Norman, I doubt very much that Hugo is an overtightener, I think that particular threaded component is more susceptible to a reluctance to unscrew due to the taper fit and the joint sealant used, Hugo had used Red Hermatite as he had done so for years, I prefer a light smear of Wellseal on the taper and a few threads also, never had one jam yet and always use a K1 spanner as I do not suffer from the generous crankcase casting problem. The valve caps are a completely different method of sealing as you know, very little tightening torque required and normally very easy to undo.
 

Sakura

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Is a compound actually necessary on the filter cap? I don't use anything and have no leaks.
 

peter holmes

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I guess you could be fortunate, the contact faces are around 70 years old and have had plenty of opportunity for slight damage and surface imperfections, I do prefer to use a smear of Wellseal sealant, sort of lubricates the mating surface and the thread.
 

Sakura

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I guess you could be fortunate, the contact faces are around 70 years old and have had plenty of opportunity for slight damage and surface imperfections, I do prefer to use a smear of Wellseal sealant, sort of lubricates the mating surface and the thread.
Yes, nothing wrong with Wellseal, non setting, as you know and if there is damage to the faces it's good insurance. Considering the oil pressure is negligible, I would have thought the chance of leakage past threads and mating surface is very unlikely and would only use a sealant if there was actually a sign of leakage in use and only if leakage was actually annoying. After all, the filter is hidden behind the cowl. After many years of maintaining plant against schedules, it was obvious that more damage was caused by maintenance work than occurred in service!
 

Top