No Newton Metre on Torque Wrench

ClassicBiker

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I have a couple of the beam type torque wrenches and well as the click type. I always unscrew the click type after I am finished using them as I don't believe leaving them set at any particular setting does them any good. My beam types have been around forever, one belonged to my late father. I noticed quite sometime ago that they had taken a "set". I used to compensate for that "set" but decided that wasn't really a good idea. If, and it's a big if, I use them I don't compensate for the "set" I just torque to the desired amount, knowing it is under torqued. Better that than strip a thread or damage something irreplaceable.
Really it shouldn't be to difficult to fabricate a tool to check that the click type does so when it is supposed to and the beam type are reading accurately.
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danno

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Non-VOC Member
Hello Danno

The choice of torque wrench manufacturer is far more simple than the choice of supplier as many are rebranded.

In general, I would avoid most shiny silver wrenches! These include Sealey/Premier, Draper (sometimes a shiny silver torque wrench repainted black), Teng (a shiny silver torque wrench repainted red and dull silver), GS and Lidl etc. They tend to drift out of calibration quite easily with moderate to high use and the measurement values have more variation. They are also often batch calibrated when manufactured and it is completely possibleu for these to be inaccurate from new! The shiny silver torque wrench you have pictured, I cannot see clearly as I only have telephone screen but it looks like a Britool design (possibly rebranded or unbranded)...so out of the shiny silver options it's got potential for being ok or at least saved by calibration.

Snap-On an exception to the shiny silver options but your "not too pricey" would rule these out. I find them in general reliable when tested and accurate throughout the range even with very high useage.

Britool AVT EVT HVT style. I find these awkward to adjust for frequent use, especially the larger sizes. Most do not have a ratchet style head so are also not the easiest to get the correct positioning. They tend to read high at the low end of the scale and low at the high end of the scale. They do not drift out of calibration as easily as the shiny silver category even with high use.

Norbar are a great option with many rebranded options available. They are now (since around 2018) owned by Snap On. Rebrands include Sykes Pickavant Motorq range and Halfords among others. They have a good level of accuracy and are generally reliable even with high use.

So Halfords is a great option for a reliable, not too pricey torque wrench, especially if you can obtain a "Trade card". They also come with a lifetime warranty (excluding calibration). I prefer the previous models that Halfords released rather than the new range (rebranded Norbar professional range).

There are of course other brands and manufacturers including my favourite Stahlwille, beautifully made, very simple to adjust and highly accurate...but not cheap.

Other general thoughts about torque wrenches.

Make sure that the wrench is working well within it scale limits. They tend to become less accurate at the extremes of the scale, particularly with the cheaper brands.

Exercise the wrench a few times before use particularly with the cheaper brands or if infrequently used. For example a shiny silver torque wrench may read 10% out on the first pull, 5% out on the second pull and 3% out on the third..and then the readings will be more consistent thereafter.

Wind your torque wrench off after use, just to the end of the numerical scale to release spring tension, no need to keep winding until it meets the stop as this can do more harm than good.
Thanks.
Yes I noticed many cheap torque wrenches are similar.
This article on testing doesn’t rate them highly:

The Wiesemann I linked to earlier looks easy to adjust and has Nm and Ft/lbs.
Next up the price range would be a Halfords one at £85.
I don’t know how accurate my old wrench is but I’m reluctant to apply 10 kg/m (105 Nm) to the RS wheel nuts with it.
Seems very tight.
I’ve left them at 6 kg/m for now.
 
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dapleb

Forum User
Non-VOC Member
The auto express article is testing a Norbar (rebranded as Halfords) and Britool (rebranded as Kennedy) against the shiny silver torque wrench in various disguises (rebranded as Sealey, Draper, TriTorq etc etc).

The TriTorq has the same internals as the shiny silvers but hidden in a triangular body!! Not even close to Norbar quality! I am amazed at the price they are suggesting for TriTorq!

I really wouldn't suggest a shiny silver unless it has an Individual calibration certificate or you find a method of checking the calibration yourself.

As Bill mentions sometimes its down to experience and feel. I have a vast array of torque wrenches but still do up items like oil filter housing (non Vincent) using feel. Other times it's essential and needs to be accurate (otherwise worse than useless).
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Now this is a Torque Wrench !,
Must be more than 50 years old !,
When the number lines up ,
I shout CLICK :) .

On a Vin' , I only use one on Cylinder head nuts.
 

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