Kubota Alternator

Peter Holmes

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Vic, your generating device looks very good on the engine, what can you tell us about it, is it something that other clever guys and maybe suppliers could reproduce, if so it looks like you could rewrite the history books, I think Alton dabbled with 3 phase with limited success, but your output figures would solve all charging problems with good looks incorporated, how many components are proprietary or stock off the shelf and what has to be specially manufactured, are you having to slightly modify the crankcases to make sufficient room for the diameter of your device to fit, and what regulator does it use.
Has it had any long term tests yet to weed out any problems and what sort of stresses does it impart onto the primary drive. I am just interested because it looks and reads so good.
 

Bill Cannon

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that's a tidy set up oexing. I have a chopped motor so not an option for me, need to ratify the existing alt' drive, fingers X'd that Bill Cannon has the details of his crank shaft pulley.
Brian, I think I bought it on-line from simplybearings.co.uk. It is 115mm OD. They opened up the centre for me so it would clear the crank nut but looking at their site I'm not sure if they still offer this service, you'll have to enquire. I drilled and tapped the alloy crank pulley with three 1/8 whit fittings.
 

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oexing

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Thanks, guys, I am glad you like the looks of the brushless 3 ph alternator. Below a few more photos from today to clarify some questions. My engines are B type, no separate cradle for dynamo, so I cannot say much about that setup. On B type I had to machine the crankcase a bit for the turned down brushless of now 68 mm diameter, just allright, you cannot go lower for the M 3 mm bolts. 69 mm would be easier but you have to get more clearance on the engine case - but then, not a big deal to do. Some places I just dremeled for clearing the cover and so on.
The homemade motor front cap got extended to reach into the engine case for having an o-ring seal, plus an extra ball bearing right next to the original sprocket to run in the triplex chain. The motor shaft is 14 mm and for exercises I made sort of shock absorber with friction plates but I´d say not so essential with my ESA mod. The rotor mass of the brushless is a lot less than the Miller dynamo so a lot less load on the triplex. The motor has 8 poles so a very smooth load for the chain, no real matter but the effects from the old destructive ESA do matter - so a big plus to have the lighter brushless magnet rotor , photos in one of my older threads here. Also performance numbers from my test jig there to find, results from half an hour runs with more than 200 W quartz bulbs, no heat problems , all below 70 degrees I think. Only component for a bit of heat sink is the three phase rectifier, to mount on a bit of alu or so, not a lot to dissipate. My first try of a typical motorbike brushless alternator regulator was very poor as it heated up the motor and regulator quickly by earthing one or two coil sets when exceeding 14 V so unacceptable ! So then I came upon the 48 V motor plus converter 48V to 13.8 V , from solar power business possibly. That setup was completely satisfying , in all respects and I am very confident it will be allright on the bike as it was perfect in my uncooled workshop test jig.
The motors come in four sizes from 100 W to 400 W , 48 V at 3000 rpm, just different lengths so you can choose what sort of power you really want. Speaking for myself I would not want more than 200 W as no idea about what to do with it, no desire to do night rides anymore. The photos below show the 300 W type on the engine, the other motor is 200 W , for comparing lengths. The China types got hall sensors under the end cap which you can skip in our case so dimensions in the Aliexpress files will be shorter when you do that mod.
I came upon this matter after reading the reports of shreddered Alton plastic gears they had at that time so searched for alternatives. And really the typical motorbike alternators today are brushless 3 phase types , just repositioned magnets and coils: Magnets in the flywheel and coils in the center component but technology is exactly same like in my chosen servo motors. I got such a type of moped alternator for testing after a mate spoke about Yamaha XT and SR miserable alternators/dynamos and put it up in the jig for output load checks. Same rectifier and converter used here and got at least 200 W 14 V from this , so another hopeful mod for XT and SR - well, not my business at this time. I am deep into homemade 4 LS brakes for two B Rapides , still confident to get them operative but a lot of headscratching to come for sure.

Vic
brushless motors:
48 V motors

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brian gains

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I like that set up Bill, my setup has the kubota outboard to the front. I'm sure Mr Renwick ( if he also built the charging system ) had good reason, maybe because it;s a chopped motor.

Is the crankshaft nut right hand or left hand thread, I've not had cause to strip down that far.

Thanks for the lead 'simplybearings.co.uk', however at first peruse they seem to state that their pulleys are now cast iron, don't fancy over coming that sort of inertia. However, bearingboys.co.uk have pulleys in ali', I just have to learn pulley tech' speak to id correct one for my purpose. Also a damn sight cheaper than the cost of billet ali' and turning one up. fingers Xd it doesn't come to that.
 

Chris Launders

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These alternators are used for conversions for Harley Sportsters up to the EVO motors using a new mounting plate and shaft, however being a tight Yorkshireman I've made my own conversion for mine having picked up an alternator for £20 at a jumble just before lockdown.
 

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Bill Cannon

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I like that set up Bill, my setup has the kubota outboard to the front. I'm sure Mr Renwick ( if he also built the charging system ) had good reason, maybe because it;s a chopped motor.

Is the crankshaft nut right hand or left hand thread, I've not had cause to strip down that far.

Thanks for the lead 'simplybearings.co.uk', however at first peruse they seem to state that their pulleys are now cast iron, don't fancy over coming that sort of inertia. However, bearingboys.co.uk have pulleys in ali', I just have to learn pulley tech' speak to id correct one for my purpose. Also a damn sight cheaper than the cost of billet ali' and turning one up. fingers Xd it doesn't come to that.
Brian the crank nut is rh thread. Good luck!
 

Peter Holmes

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VOC Member
Brian, I think I bought it on-line from simplybearings.co.uk. It is 115mm OD. They opened up the centre for me so it would clear the crank nut but looking at their site I'm not sure if they still offer this service, you'll have to enquire. I drilled and tapped the alloy crank pulley with three 1/8 whit fittings.
Bill, I should have paid more attention when in Wagrain, but looking at the photos that accompanied this post, can we presume the gears in dynamo housing recess is your electric start mechanism, if so what are you able to tell us about it. I have searched this forum for any previous posts that you might have made, but am unable to find any information.
 
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