Ignition Timing & modern Fuel

chankly bore

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Nope, a bit of insulating tape around the centre bolt taper then screw back in so the keyway is still holding the points assembly and then the clip goes on the head of the tapered bolt. I have even seen one excessively indolent owner use the live terminal of his rear brake switch as an indicator light. We're a resourceful lot out here in the scrub!
 

Monkeypants

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"Tuning for Speed" page 156, fifth edition. Very sophisticated static timing device shown. with a bit of nadgery you use the bike's own battery and the bulb from the speedometer. cost: one pair of crocodile clips, or in Florida, alligator clips, plus about five feet of old wire from your last rebuild. Why do all you blokes want to spend money unnecessarily? Perhaps we could have yellow shrink wrap for camshaft failure and red for big-end?
I use the multimeter set for resistance measurement or continuity for this. They cost next to nothing these days, there are always two or three of these in the shop and one in the bike toolkit, probably the most useful item in there.
Glen
 

Magnetoman

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...with a bit of nadgery you use the bike's own battery and the bulb from the speedometer...
I use the multimeter set for resistance measurement or continuity for this...
The potential problem of both of the above techniques comes from the fact they require the mounting bolt to be removed from the unit in order to measure the resistance. Otherwise you are trying to see the difference between 0 Ohms and 0.5 Ohms (which isn't even possible with the bulb and quite frustrating, if not borderline impossible, with anything but a good ohmmeter).

The advantage of using an LCR meter or buzz box is both work with the unit locked on the taper. No matter what, you fiddle with the timing as much as you want with it loose on the taper and then tighten it down. With an ohmmeter or buzz box all you can do when you tighten the mounting bolt is pray that nothing changes as a result. Since you can't measure it after the fact, you then have to pray again that your first prayer was answered. However, with an LCR meter you are easily able to confirm that the timing hasn't changed as a result of tightening the mounting bolt (or, see that it has and thus are able to deal with it).
 

Monkeypants

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No taper on my setups, one is converted Norton dual points, the other D Distributor. The Digital Ohmeter works great for finding the points opening location. It will show that continuity has been broken a few degrees before even the thinnest feeler gauge will slide in. That is as fussy as one needs to be with this setup, probably moreso in fact. Setting the points to a predetermined advance setting by any method is just an approximation of what the individual motor requires for timing.. The actual optimal setting is found by power testing on a hill and fine tuning from there.
Glen
 
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Magnetoman

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No taper on my setups, one is converted Norton dual points, the other D Distributor...
Ah, sorry, I was assuming a magneto. With a coil/points system an ohmmeter is all that anyone needs (or a light bulb and battery for really "old school" timing).

As you say, an ohmmeter (points/coil) or LCR meter (magneto) will get the points to open at precisely the value you want. The more fundamental problem is knowing what that value should be given the variety of fuel blends at different stations at different times of the year.
 

Gerry Clarke

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Have manual magneto A/R on Rapide with slack wire advance. Timing set the old fashioned way with rod through dummy plug. Nominal full advance is 34/35 degrees. Seems to work just fine. Starts on half retard then advance it fully right away. Never pinks on full advance and the low compression motor runs smoothly. A pleasure to ride.

Gerry
 

Bazlerker

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Aircraft Tool Supply sells the MAGNETO SYNCHRONIZER (SINGLE DELUXE) for $42.95.. Details were discussed in MPH a while ago..
 

Chris Launders

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I'm running a HD adv/ret with twin points and twin plug heads on my Norvin at 25 degrees BTDC fully advanced, this means it is probably firing about 10-12 ATDC retarded. Should I restrict the throw on the adv/ret, if so will it start and tick over better, it sometimes takes a couple of kicks to start and the tickover has to be a little higher than my BTH fired twin.
Chris.
 

vibrac

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I think the greatest thing about the BT-H mag is that steel rod that locks the mag at the correct position so you can time it to your figure, so simple so easy compared to all that taper tightning rigmarole and allowance for drive train movement.
Its just amazing that it was never thought of before on coil or mag but then we are talking about the design department of the Lucas Prince of Darkness empire. designers of that pressed steel whirley gig of wear the ATD
 
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