Ignition Timing & modern Fuel

Monkeypants

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
So they will start at 3 degrees ATDC but with difficulty. Add to this 1360 cc s and 10.4 to one cr, I suspect the 3 degree ATDC will not be a workable option in my case.
Some Vincent owners have opted for programable ignitions, however the one bike I am familiar with that has it fitted has already had two system failures requiring replacement. The Pazon fixed setup seemed to offer a greater chance of reliability, they do have a lot of happy customers.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Hello Glen, Use a "D" distributor and put a thin plastic tube over the shaft, To stop the bob weights closing too much, Cheers Bill.
 

derek

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I was very interested in the Comet Pazon SMART FIRE graph, I was sold a Pazon SURE FIRE ignition for my Comet! This has a steady gradual curve from zero to fully advanced at 20deg! How can you check the fully retard position statically, as you can only set at full advance by sighting the dot? As there is a lost spark (it fires every revolution) do you have to set a modern strobe at the two stroke setting for both revs and degrees of advance? When set at full advance, I have problems with starting a slow tick over (idling).
 

chankly bore

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Wasted Spark?

How is your ignition driven, has your triggering device got two diametrically opposite sensors? Mine is driven by a standard 48 tooth magneto pinion which rotates at half engine speed. Where is the "wasted spark"? Mine was fitted set to T.D.C. using the indicator light on the ignition unit. Just by the way, I got a twin spark coil from Motobins (B.M.W. parts) in the U.K. considerably cheaper than anywhere else in the world, identical to the Pazon part. As that incredibly erudite gentleman "Magnetoman" postulates variation in the theoretical advance curve do to variable (and probably Oriental) componentry my Comet on Steroids is going to be timed on the "suck it and see" principle. Wish me luck, folks!
 
Last edited:

derek

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
My ignition is as standard and at half engine speed, the trigger unit does have diametrically opposed coils and this is were you get the wasted spark, as it fires as the rotor magnets pass each position ie. at compression and at the end of exhaust stroke. There is no indicator light on thePazon sure fire it is set at full advance position viewing a red spot on the rotor through the correct hole in the trigger plate which can be turned to adjust. It is also stated that the coil should be 3 ohm resistance on primary windings, yet the coil supplied is 5.4 ohms? When set as above you can not verify the static retarded position and with only 20 degrees of advance ???
 

Monkeypants

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Derek, have you sent an email to Andy at Pazon with your questions? It might be good to get the info right from the horse's mouth, especially since you are experiencing some problems with the unit. I found him to be most helpful.

Glen
 

Black Flash

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Regarding bending the ears on ATD baseplate.
I do not like the idea of bending as we have all seen broken off ears over the years. I have not felt the need yet to change something regarding the advance range but I use a lot of heat shrink in my business. so why not fitting a few layers of heat shrink , one after another until you have received the desired advance range.
if only small adjustments (2 or 3 degrees) are needed this material should be totally sufficient and also provide some kind of a cushioning effect when the ears are hit by their counterpart.
just my two pennies worth
Bernd
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
If it wears through, the pieces could block an oil passage. Periodic inspection could guard against that, though. Maybe different colors of heat shrink, so that if a layer had fallen off, it would be obvious?
 

Martyn Goodwin

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
If it wears through, the pieces could block an oil passage. Periodic inspection could guard against that, though. Maybe different colors of heat shrink, so that if a layer had fallen off, it would be obvious?
So a quick inspection shows a layer has fallen off. Then what? A total tear down just in case. I figure I would rather take the risk with a tweek bend of the ATD ears.

M
 
Top