Well I finally got the garage up to working temps with the thermal jumpsuit
on and so I installed all the new 6Vdc H4 quarts halogen head light bits
on/into my 52 shadow
I did discover a few things...The relay kit takes the main power directly
from the battery bypassing the toggle switch and the bikes wiring and uses
heavy gauge thin strand braded wire and low resistance automotive relays.
The harness then is wired to the bike wiring to allow the stock toggle to go
from high beam to low. It all works fanatically. The hella 7 inch reflector
and lens fits perfectly and casts a solid beam of white light as it should.
The discovery came when I found that the Ammeter of course did not register
the headlight's Amps as now it was no longer using the stock wiring. With
the bike running at 3-4K RPM the Ammeter showed 6-8 amps (full range)
charge...I did ponder a creative way to wire in the stock Ammeter but my
weak E+M training did not provide a successful wiring solution..
So, any body out there care to instruct me on the best way, if possible to
add the headlight load to the stock Ammeter? The relay kit came from
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html and I used
the H4 Single Headlight Weatherproof Relay Kit.
In a completely unrelated exercise, while running the bike up to operating
temp with the chokes off I found I had a bit of popping from the rear carb
when the RPMs were coming down. There would be one or two pops with
associated smoke coming from the rear carb intake.
The temp in the garage was about 50F and the fuel in the carbs 32mm MK1's
with 210 jets is about 2 months old. My thoughts range from, not really at
operating temp, incorrect air mixture or cable adjustment , excess fuel in
the cylinder allowing for combustion of the fuel on exhaust stroke or old
gas to an evil curse...
All of this is a guess really as I can not ride the bike due to ice, snow
and salt so we are not really testing at operational conditions but WTH I
though I would ask...What do you all think..It is only at the rear
cylinder..Why the pops?
Engine felt strong and ran smoothly at idle, loud but smooth for a Vincent
as far as I know..(I do not know much about Vincents)
Thanks all...
Cheers,
Eric
on and so I installed all the new 6Vdc H4 quarts halogen head light bits
on/into my 52 shadow
I did discover a few things...The relay kit takes the main power directly
from the battery bypassing the toggle switch and the bikes wiring and uses
heavy gauge thin strand braded wire and low resistance automotive relays.
The harness then is wired to the bike wiring to allow the stock toggle to go
from high beam to low. It all works fanatically. The hella 7 inch reflector
and lens fits perfectly and casts a solid beam of white light as it should.
The discovery came when I found that the Ammeter of course did not register
the headlight's Amps as now it was no longer using the stock wiring. With
the bike running at 3-4K RPM the Ammeter showed 6-8 amps (full range)
charge...I did ponder a creative way to wire in the stock Ammeter but my
weak E+M training did not provide a successful wiring solution..
So, any body out there care to instruct me on the best way, if possible to
add the headlight load to the stock Ammeter? The relay kit came from
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html and I used
the H4 Single Headlight Weatherproof Relay Kit.
In a completely unrelated exercise, while running the bike up to operating
temp with the chokes off I found I had a bit of popping from the rear carb
when the RPMs were coming down. There would be one or two pops with
associated smoke coming from the rear carb intake.
The temp in the garage was about 50F and the fuel in the carbs 32mm MK1's
with 210 jets is about 2 months old. My thoughts range from, not really at
operating temp, incorrect air mixture or cable adjustment , excess fuel in
the cylinder allowing for combustion of the fuel on exhaust stroke or old
gas to an evil curse...
All of this is a guess really as I can not ride the bike due to ice, snow
and salt so we are not really testing at operational conditions but WTH I
though I would ask...What do you all think..It is only at the rear
cylinder..Why the pops?
Engine felt strong and ran smoothly at idle, loud but smooth for a Vincent
as far as I know..(I do not know much about Vincents)
Thanks all...
Cheers,
Eric