Front Spring Box Removal

[clevtrev]

Never put the top bolt in last, Just think of where it will go if you get it wrong.

 

[deejay499]

I do much the same as davidd, except I use ratchet straps and if possible have someone steady the bike off the stand and even push down on the bars.(not needed when you have a chair on!) The reason David says about turning the forks onto opposite lock is that nothing is in the way should you still have a bit of tension on the unit, but remember it will try and spring backwards to the horizontal. I have used this method with sidecar springs with inners and an extra bit of heavy spring at the bottom, so it takes a bit of nerve to take the bolt out!
Elf and safety at all times, Dave

 

[Hugo Myatt]

One way to make the job easier is to take the two nuts holding the damper eyebolts off, thus allowing the forks to extend further when you put the bike on the front stands.

Only remove the damper with the springs under compression (say on the rear stand on level ground) or the mudguard will graunch against the front engine plates. I always remove the front mudguard and stays and then use the windlass method. Using a double length of nylon rope and a half knot tightened at the top of the springbox shoulder to stop it shifting and the two ends wound figure of eight around the axle tommy bar. A tube extension on the tommy bar makes it easier.

 

[Albervin]

Nobody has mentioned removing the tank just in case it goes pear shaped......

 

[davidd]

I believe there should be symmetry in all things so I think that Vincent maintenance should harbor as many exciting moments as riding. I do think that YoungJohn should know that the damper limits the suspension travel for the Girdraulic, which is why the fork moves further without it. However, I do not remove anything and I have done this a few times. I changed springs for others on three separate occasions at the Colorado Rally, so I prefer it to be a ten or fifteen minute job. You definitely need a ratchet strap for side car springing! All of my springs now have no preload, so I just jack the bike up and there is no tension on the box – even the side car spring. This does not upset the symmetry equation as it eliminated some very exciting handling and braking issues.

David

 

[timetraveller]

Hi David, could you explain what you have done to prevent your springs having preload? Thanks.

 

[davidd]

I decided that it was important for proper handling to be able to adjust the front ride height. I used the Brampton as a general guide and concluded that I could make a spring with a much higher load rating that started at zero pounds, just like the Brampton. I had three different front springs made at a length of 14 inches. The 14 inch length allows for mounting at full extension without compressing the spring, much like the Brampton, and I chose load ratings that were also similar. So, for the lightest spring I selected 75 pounds per inch, the intermediate was 110 and the heavy spring was 130. By mixing the springs I could achieve the intermediate ratings if necessary. When compared to the Brampton this would mead 150 pounds per inch for the lightest and 260 for the heaviest. I chose the 75 pounders for my racer, but this light spring has also been used by Comet owners who have been stuck using the too heavy twin springs for solo work. There are about thirty Vincents using these springs in the U.S. for the past five years and all of the reports have been favorable.

David

 

[vibrac]

Hate to be untechnical but 1/2 of broom handle was the recomended tuning for racing a twin and it works OK on Bens racer too ( I think I went down to 3/8)
Of course like anyone who wants the best I now run a brampton fork luckily with the added attraction of a 'California damper' (Dont ask they are not made anymore)

 

[davidd]

Tim,

I think that it is good to be un-technical if you can get away with it. I failed. The height of the springs caused the previous owner to lose control momentarily and ride off the track. When I rode the bike it developed a speed wobble while braking on the straightaway. To add to this Carleton Palmer with his Flash on the same straight under braking lost control and had to run straight off the course. All of this bad behavior went away with the short springs. In Carleton’s case, he had previously put in the “broomsticks” and removed them at my suggestion. After doing so he said it “transformed the handling.” That being said, I would never argue with your success. The set ups that we were using along with the track conditions were aggravating the issue and your set up is not. That is a good thing because I suffered with injuries for quite a while. The injuries were a major factor in my decision to redesign the springs. This was quite compelling for me, but I do see that it is not as compelling for anyone else. I feel much more confident on the bike even if it is the placebo effect.

By the way, I hope Ben is recovering well from his injuries.

David

 

[Bill Thomas]

Hello David, So what are you saying? That your bike was bad because the springs were too strong, And the forks were topping out ? I thought it was the other way, when the trail was silly, i.e. when the springs were too weak. Eddie Stevens used to say always use inner springs to stop this. I am not having a Pop at you, I have had my own problems, Just interested. Cheers Bill.