Misc: Carburettors Fabricating New Cables for MkI 928 With Amal 313 Dual Throttle

Cyborg

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Would like specific procedure for soldering the brass hollow fitting to a Vincent Spares HB5AS throttle cable please.
I have all the general instructions - make a "bird cage" end, clean all, flux all, dip in solder pot for 10 seconds, let air cool, file to fit.

Dipping in solder pot will not work for this fitting.
I am looking for the specifics on this hollow brass drilled fitting please.

What is the mechanical prep prior to solder?

View attachment 56458
Why can’t you dip it in solder?
 

Cyborg

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I consider that pretty much normal. I just did one this morning. I dipped it in the solder pot. Sometimes if you’re quick and lucky you can wipe some of the excess off, but not really a problem to clean it off once solidified. A small file that isn’t too coarse, really good lighting and a pair of reading glasses depending on how good your eyesight is. Gently file the solder until the brass just reappears. The area around the cable is where you have to be careful, but the solder is pretty soft compared to the cable strands. It helps if you have a small vise to hold the nipple and then clean up one side at a time. Just don’t dip it in any farther than necessary. It’s fiddly work, but I actually don’t mind doing it.
I compared those throttle cable measurements you posted to the ones I got with my carbs. Mine are a fair amount longer, but I’m a ways away from fitting them to confirm the lengths are ok. They were on Lighting manifolds, but that alone doesn’t account for all the extra length. Maybe he had apehangers.
 

chankly bore

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I've never understood the fashion for dual throttle cables. The original set-up allows for handlebar movement without affecting the throttle position provided the 1/8" or thereabouts slack is allowed for at the twistgrip. Try this: set the throttle slides open at, say, 5/8" and put the handlebars straight ahead. Pass a drill bit in to just touch the slides, then move the handlebars lock to lock. I'll bet you see a difference in the slide position. It is bound to happen because of the difference in cable lengths and curvature. With the original junction box this cannot happen. I must be getting old and grumpy!
 

Cyborg

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I've never understood the fashion for dual throttle cables. The original set-up allows for handlebar movement without affecting the throttle position provided the 1/8" or thereabouts slack is allowed for at the twistgrip. Try this: set the throttle slides open at, say, 5/8" and put the handlebars straight ahead. Pass a drill bit in to just touch the slides, then move the handlebars lock to lock. I'll bet you see a difference in the slide position. It is bound to happen because of the difference in cable lengths and curvature. With the original junction box this cannot happen. I must be getting old and grumpy!
If it helps to soothe your soul, my carbs came with duel cables, but I’m switching it to a single with the junction…..and you’re not really that old.
 

craig

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Yes, The Amal dual pull 313 has been a go to for me. Smooth cable runs, easy balance capability. I do own several junction box cable sets and have saved them for historical reasons. Cant think of the last time I needed lock to lock handlebar movement at 70mph or 60 mph or 50 mph or 40 mph or 30 mph or 20 mph, but maybe at 15, 10 or less. I ride every day on extremely curvey, hilly roads.
Dual throttle is simply the best choice for me.

Amal313open.jpg

20230212_BSDualCable.jpg
 
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Cyborg

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That brass tit with the hole in it isn’t something I’ve seen used before. To me it looks more difficult to solder on properly. You’d need to (or should) separate the cable strands in the hole Y/N? I would prefer using a normal throttle cable one that is solid and has the counterbore for the bird nest. The bird nest is better because then you aren’t relying on the solder to hold it together. The solder just maintains the shape of the bird nest and glues everything in place.
Don’t tell clanky bore, but I considered using a duel pull like that one because it was in the bin and in good shape. I opted for the single pull because it is a throttle that was more appropriate for my project. I actually never thought about what he described there, but it does make sense to me. Probably more evident when maneuvering tight corners at slow speed?
I don’t think there is an idle stop on there. Just a stop for WOT and a friction doodad.
 

craig

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I don't know what the official fab instruction for HB5AS Vincent throttle cables might be, i would like to know.
This hollow brass throttle end fitting comes as standard with each HB5AS throttle/air cable, no options.
The cable length issue happens with all MC cables when lock to lock, start the bike, let the bars go full stop and the idle may change.
Honda 90 or Vincent.
Possibly running sloppy throttle cables is the answer.

idle stop is built in
full pull stop is nice
Yes, friction is there as well.
 

andrew peters

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Performance Indian website, Jim Mosher sells manifold kits for Vincent and has some hand drawn sheets on this subject of fitting 900 series Amal to Vincents.

Has anyone used these manifolds or dimension sheets?

http://www.performanceindian.com/VinManIn.html

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I got Jim’s manifolds and cable instructions, also his drawings for fuel lines worked out well.. everything he made for me and his instructions were very good and accurate.. I have Amal Premiere 932… I haven’t got around to opening my heads to match the manifolds, yet, although I may be a little overcarbed with MK 1 cams anyway, I may yet polish the ports a little but I think they already have had some work, the ports do seem pretty smooth now but I’ve nothing to compare it too.. although I’ve made many many mods to my bike I try to keep it on the road most of the time, once I’ve disassembled it to much I’ll miss riding it.. I need the bike for The Quail in May and Cambria in September
 

chankly bore

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Rider's Handbook, tenth edition, page 21. "Provided that there is perceptible slack in the throttle cable, the amount of throttle opening provided for slow running is controlled by the throttle stops," This is presumably true for a Honda and any other machine except possibly a Velocette Thruxton. Perhaps I am guilty of largess in positing 1/8", but that's why there is, or should be, a cable adjuster, HB2AS nearby. As an aside, my daily ride for 20 years, a Guzzi Mille GT, had a junction box; an earlier Italian romance, a Ducati GT 750 had twin pull throttles, and it was much harder to keep the two pots playing in the same sandpit for long. So, yes, running "sloppy" throttle cables is the answer, sort of. Like a lot of things on a Vincent, suck it and see! I didn't mean for this last bit to go BOLD, I'm not getting grumpier, honestly!
 
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