Comet Inspection/Repair after 10,000miles

[Martyn Goodwin]

Howard,

I don't think that will work. I mentioned that I have a bench engine. It is mismatched Comet cases with half a flywheel and main shaft so I can degree cams. I have very weak springs in the valves so it does not want to move much, but I think the stock intake spring will want to close and the exhaust spring will want to close also by resisting the cam ramp and it will want to reverse.

David

I do not have the luxury of a bench engine. During my last rebuild - as a temporary measure I fitted a piston WITHOUT any rings and I replaced the valve springs - both inners and outers - with just the 3rd inners from a lightning which are very soft. It was with this setup that I gathered my cam data and also used to set up my valve timing.

Once I was happy with the valve timing , off with the head and in with the proper piston with rings and then refit the proper valve springs. Yes it was a bit of work, but I believe, well worth it.

Martyn

 

[Bill Thomas]

Hello Craig, My Brother Ron and me have Just been playing with a Comet engine, On your post number 61, You sent a nice exploded view of the Comet timing gears, I think it was a repeat of what is in some books, We think the breather is going the wrong way ?.
I also found a new way , For Me !!, Of holding the Crank still while doing up the Shocker nut and the half time pinion nut, From the Motor trade, An oil filter mole grip which has a length of chain on the end, Clamped round the bit with springs in, PD3 ? and a bit of wood under it, Holds it solid, I think it would also work on a twin. Cheers Bill.

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

H

In my experience the Series D type ESA will not fit on the Comet (Not on my Comet anyway.) The shock absorber spring plate PD5/2 is too wide and prevents the outer chaincase cover from being fitted. I found out the hard way.

Here is how I secured the ESA nut on my Comet. The holes I drilled in PD5 are 1/16 inch and I used the 'dimples' as a guide to ensure they are not under the springs. You can also see the flats on put into PD7 so I could drill, again 1/16 for the lock wire. No need for a rattle gun - I put an alloy bar through from the timing case side , passing through the holes in the flywheel then use a long ring spanner to gently tighten PD7 till I feel it bottom. Then apply the lock wires.

 

[vibrac]

A nice length of quality washing line down the plug hole on the right stroke has always been my way of locking engine up for tightening

 

[Bill Thomas]

But don't tell the Wife !! Cheers Bill.

 

[Sakura]

This is my way of locking the ESA on a twin

 

[Bill Thomas]

I need more info', I am old !!, Cheers Bill.