Misc: Charging Systems Chinamo over charging.

[Monkeypants]

I have the same setup on the Rapide John McDougall built for Leo Lee.
I'm out on bit of a tour with it right now, 800 miles or so.
I haven't ridden this bike much in 12 years as it was to be the backup bike for my other Rapide when it was down for repairs. That never materialized so the Leo Lee bike only has 3300 miles since John's resto about 25 years ago
Anyway, it's lovely to ride! 9to 1s and big intake ports working well.

Onto the Chinamo & 12volt JG - the charging system does show a big plus charge when first starting out in the morning then, as it should, drops back to the centre position after ten miles or so when cruising along at 65-70 mph. I'm running with a 60 watt headlight on and coil ignition. Headlight on or off the ammeter works it's way back to the middle after awhile.
I do have a good sized battery fitted, I believe it is 9ah.( Lead acid, sealed)

Glen

 

[john998]

Hello Glen, thanks for the that, my problem is that with the chinamo and two different regulators it never comes back to a low charge no matter how long I ride.
Have now bought a AO regulator that is meant for car use, when fitted and tested I will report back. John.

 

[timetraveller]

With the Walkernators, which use an alternator wherein the output is controlled by modifying the current to the field windings, this symptom has always been due to either a battery which will not come up to 14.3 volts or a broken earth wire to the regulator. This might not be applicable to your bike and I know that you have changed both the battery and regulator but it might be worth while checking the battery volts immediately after a decent length run.

 

[Albervin]

I don't want to hi-jack the post but I am an electrical imbecile. Is it correct that a generator will only show a +ve charge on the ammeter if you are actually using electricity (lights, ignition)? I have a Motobatt on my 6v Rapide. I can run with lights on for quite a while showing -ve charge and then wham!! +4 amps which will then stabilise at +2. My regulator is a little alloy box that can be switched between 6v and 12v. All the gubbins are sealed in epoxy and the Miller generator needed a bit of re-wiring to accomodate it. I think it was purchased in the Netherlands by the previous owner back in the 1990s. I do worry sometimes that it has failed but then it always kicks in eventually. The Motobatt is a sealed gel mat type and my lights are QI front and LED rear. Thanks.

 

[timetraveller]

An 'imbecile', I am trying to work my way up to being an imbecile, might never get there. You might want to check your wiring to the ammeter. One of the chaps who bought a Walkernator had a problem with it in that he was getting a continuous charge. It took some time to sort out the problem but it turned out that he had fitted a Satnav to the bike which was on the whole time and he had wired the feed to this from the wrong side of the ammeter. What was showing on the meter was the current taken by the Satnav. You cant have exactly the same problem in that you get a change from a discharge to a charge but it might be worth while checking whether the charge happens when you turn something on.

 

[Albervin]

Thanks Norman. I think my "issue" is I have a trickle charger on the bike when not in use. I only use my pilot light normally so it takes a while for the battery to signify it needs a charge. At least that is what I THINK is happening. I am about to have the beast re-wired by a professional (electrician/motorcyclist) so hopefully all my fears will be allayed. I do carry a spare Miller smoke re-generator though. At least the generator doesn't whine.

 

[Monkeypants]

Here's my understanding of the ammeter , if wired up correctly-
It measures current (amps) flowing in and out of the battery.
A positive reading on the ammeter means the battery is receiving charge, a negative reading means the battery is being drained.
It is possible to wire the ammeter incorrectly.
I'm sure I've done that at least once in the past. The simplest screw up is to hook it up backwards, but that is immediately obvious on startup.

Side note- It was 7 degrees C yesterday when leaving Wells,B.C., so I plugged in the heated vest.
The first 60 miles was on a windy road thru deer country. We were travelling right at the time when the deer tend to be out feeding and crossing roads.
With that in mind, we cruised along carefully at 50-60 mph. In top gear, with heated vest on, 60 watt H4 headlight on, point coil ignition, the ammeter showed balance (0) or slightly positive all the way.
This was about 130 watts of electrical load for the Chinamo. Very similar output to the Alton. I think the Alton might have a slight advantage at even lower RPM, but it's not a lot. Either one does the job.
Decent!
Too bad the Chinamo factory burned down.

Glen

 

[clevtrev]

Too bad the Chinamo factory burned down.

Was that when the one on test went to overcharge ?

 

[john998]

Hello, Have sent the DVR2 regulator back to the suppliers it is caput. Have now run 2 Chinamos and one Miller in the lathe with a set up to double the lathe max speed to 2500RPH. It turns out that the Chinamo starts out putting at higher revs than the Miller. One Chinamo needed 1920 RPM to produce 12 volts at 2.7 amps and the other 2200 RPM for the same output. The Miller produces the same output at 1520 RPM.
The new AO car regulator was no use as it would not kick in till 55MPH in top gear still with the Chinamo.
So this was replaced with the bike version of the AO, no better, still slow at kicking in and over charging at higher revs.
Have now fitted a Chinese copy of a Lucas RB 108 and it works perfectly, balancing ignition and lighting loads around 45 MPH in top and not over charging.
This must be due to the electrical characteristics of the Chinamo.
I am tempted to refit the Miller with the AO regulator but cannot face the struggle with the sidecar in the way, perhaps this winter? John.

 

[Albervin]

Update on my re-wiring. I have been told I have a K-Tec regulator. After the re-wiring it cuts in at about 1800rpm. The ammeter now sits at +1-2 amps with my 20 watt QH pilot light on. Settles to -1 at idle. This is a 6v system with standard Miller generator. The electrician removed ALL wires and replaced them with larger core wires, in a correct manner. fuse and modern connectors. $250 well spent.