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So its off to Bungay you go then John - or Beccles, if your name is Len and you get it a bit wrong................
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Sounds like a proper solution IF and its a big IF you have the required equipment and skills. I figure to pay a specialist shop to do that work would cost more than the new part from Draganfly - the chap I use and trust charges $100 per hour for his time PLUS $50 per hour for machine time. OUCH!I knew that this is a critical place requiring a good fit for avoiding wear and any troubles that go with it. So a few months ago I did a LOT of laser welding at my former company on most of the splines in the Rap gearboxes - doing two of them parallel. BIG SNIP..
I could have had new spares from the Spares Co. but honestly I don´t have much confidence in getting that sort of fit I´d like to see - for that money.
A lot of early Burman chainwheels had rubber bushes in them to soften the take up when the clutch is released..My brother-in-laws 250 OK Supreme had them,or should I say did not have them just bolts with 3/4" slop..all the parts were bought from Draganfly motorcycles. It made the hand changes a lot nicer..JohnI am no A expert but it was pointed out to me recently that A box clutches had rubber bushes to reduce the harshness of the drive which brings be me back to the Norton vane clutch perhaps this sprocket hammering was an additional fault of not having the cushion
Yes Series A machines certainly did have the rubber clutch bushes. Six as standard but the number could be varied up to 8. But remember there was no ESA, so these bushes were essential. Available from me if you want them.I am no A expert but it was pointed out to me recently that A box clutches had rubber bushes to reduce the harshness of the drive which brings be me back to the Norton vane clutch perhaps this sprocket hammering was an additional fault of not having the cushion
Hi Martyn - I have gone through 2 Burman gearbox sprockets , just as you describe ( I have done 40,000 miles on the Comet) - both times have left me at opposite ends of the country (Ireland) .Fortunately it hasn't happened on any of our longer trips abroad! . Anyway, I am preparing the Comet for this years international , and I was wondering if there is any way to check the sprocket for "rocking" on the splines without having to strip out the primary side ? The most recent sprocket was a very tight fit , and has about 2,000 miles on it. I cant see any way to avoid taking the primary side off, but its worth asking.With the first to go I suspect that it was of inferior quality - the latter ones were of high quality and cost! I suspect that on a single there is more 'shock' on the primary chain than on a twin - plus we all know how well the ESA does (not) work - and that translates to impact loading on the drive gear splines.
So now at every chance I get I am checking that retaining nut - though there is no way I would go more than 5,000 miles without checking it.
Hi Pete, Problem as you have found is that the drive sprocket PR50-22A is behind the inner primary case T4/2. If you are very agile and flexible (and that is NOT me) you may be able to reach in to that area with a long flat blade screw driver to see if there is any discernible side to side wobble. Come to think of it, if you drained the fuel and oil , using suitable cushioning you could lay the bike on its side to make it a bit easier to gain access - I have NOT tried to do this - just a thought.Hi Martyn - I have gone through 2 Burman gearbox sprockets , just as you describe ( I have done 40,000 miles on the Comet) - both times have left me at opposite ends of the country (Ireland) .Fortunately it hasn't happened on any of our longer trips abroad! . Anyway, I am preparing the Comet for this years international , and I was wondering if there is any way to check the sprocket for "rocking" on the splines without having to strip out the primary side ? The most recent sprocket was a very tight fit , and has about 2,000 miles on it. I cant see any way to avoid taking the primary side off, but its worth asking.
Almost 2 years and 15,000 miles later I have just discovered the burman gearbox drive sprocket was loose AGAIN ! But when I got into it things are much worse than before. This time the nut was secure (I needed to use my impact driver to remove it) but again the sprocket was sloppy and unlike before, the splines on the output shaft - being part of PR50-15BA are damaged. See photo.Thanks Martyn..When you type the part No you gave into the search box it comes up. When I looked at the parts diagram for BA boxes the output gears were shown but not listed in blue, where stock levels and price are found, which is why I assumed they were not in stock..
I was thinking the same as well. Is the nut becoming threadbound before the full pressure of the nut side face is on the sprocket so the nut appears to be fully tight? If you do put a washer in there, then a hardened steel one would be better than mild steel otherwise the washer may creap over time.That is exactly what I was thinking Erik.
I had that problem with Talon replacement sprockets for my Rudge race bike. Original sprockets were thicker at the spline area, so the best I could do with limited facilities was fit a washer between the nut and sprocket.