Misc: Everything Else Belt Drive Conversion

  • Thread starter Graham Smith
  • Start date
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Graham Smith

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I 'stole' this photograph and question from a group on the dreaded Facebook.

I've invited the person to join our forum and ask here, as I think some on here may be able to help him…

I may need some help here before this is finished. I daren’t go to owner’s club site, half of them would stab me in the neck if they saw what I’m doing. I’m going to need a way to space the primary out and an inch. I wonder if anyone is doing a spacer yet? It’s a 1948 HRD twin by the way.

6HckmT8&tn=I2qqzzkF5neyq-_q&_nc_ht=scontent-lhr8-2.jpg
 

davidd

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
This is a complicated conversion because it has not been developed by a single person, so it is difficult to give an A-Z answer. Pat Manning and another owner have been working on this mod for a few years. The first attempt uses exactly the same components that you are using. They made modifications to allow the primary driveline to be moved in as far as possible.

Twin Newby 1.jpg


The primary cover would need to be moved outwards by more than 1/2". This seemed to be too much as the drive could be moved in further, but not with the original parts.

The second iteration was done by purchasing a larger size engine sprocket that is closer to the stock primary ratio. This allowed the engine sprocket to be flipped around so the offset was on the inside rather than the outside. The larger sprocket allowed the bearing journal to be cleared by the extra space provided by the larger diameter sprocket and the flat side of the sprocket being moved to the outside.

The result was that everything moved further in. The end of the clutch shaft had to be shortened, but the cover fits well with a 1/2" spacer.

Twin Newby 2.jpg


The HRD engine got this second iteration. If you look just above the cap and to the left, you can see the lines of the 1/2" spacer. The stock primary cover fits well and the clutch cover could be replaced by a flat plate because the clutch is well inboard. The baffle on the inside of the cover needs to be removed.

Both engines have been run and shifted while mounted to a jig, so they appear to perform well. I think a 1/2" spacer is near the limit of the extra width that a rider would want.

David
 

BrianR

Forum User
VOC Member
This is a complicated conversion because it has not been developed by a single person, so it is difficult to give an A-Z answer. Pat Manning and another owner have been working on this mod for a few years. The first attempt uses exactly the same components that you are using. They made modifications to allow the primary driveline to be moved in as far as possible.

View attachment 49711

The primary cover would need to be moved outwards by more than 1/2". This seemed to be too much as the drive could be moved in further, but not with the original parts.

The second iteration was done by purchasing a larger size engine sprocket that is closer to the stock primary ratio. This allowed the engine sprocket to be flipped around so the offset was on the inside rather than the outside. The larger sprocket allowed the bearing journal to be cleared by the extra space provided by the larger diameter sprocket and the flat side of the sprocket being moved to the outside.

The result was that everything moved further in. The end of the clutch shaft had to be shortened, but the cover fits well with a 1/2" spacer.

View attachment 49712

The HRD engine got this second iteration. If you look just above the cap and to the left, you can see the lines of the 1/2" spacer. The stock primary cover fits well and the clutch cover could be replaced by a flat plate because the clutch is well inboard. The baffle on the inside of the cover needs to be removed.

Both engines have been run and shifted while mounted to a jig, so they appear to perform well. I think a 1/2" spacer is near the limit of the extra width that a rider would want.
 

BrianR

Forum User
VOC Member
There is no width penalty as 1/2” may be removed from the clutch dome. In fact, because the dome could be replaced with a flat plate as you suggest, the effective width of the engine is reduced with this modification as the clutch dome is the first item to touch the ground when leaned over.
 

BrianR

Forum User
VOC Member
Brilliant, though complex and expensive, solution to a nonexistent problem?
The goal is to make a belt that fits within the standard cover. I’ve seen a few broken cases from chain failure and I feel that a belt would prevent this type of damage. Maybe the failures were due to poor maintenance, but I’m not confident that the Reynolds chains are made to the same standard or even made by Reynolds anymore. Their final drive chains don’t last very long, elven when I buy the best “GP” ones.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Dont forget to have a oil seal on the outside of the main bearing to seal the primary from any oil
 
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