a better way to wire the headlights

[Bazlerker]

Back when our bikes were 6 volts, and the power coming from the generator was relatively feeble switching what voltage there was through the small contacts on the handlebar mounted switch was acceptable.. Now that we are using alternators and 12 volts we should consider a superior method of switching from high beam to low beam - use a relay to do the hard work..Here is a link to a solution - I have no commercial interest in this product.. I pass the info along only because I am frantically making every effort that I can to achieve sainthood..

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/VStrom/vstrom.html#h4dual

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

With a move from 6 to 12 volts I would have thought that the current flowing (as opposed to voltage) would be the about half of what it was with 6 volts, given the same load. So those "old fashioned" switches with the robust connectors and terminals should be able to cope. The big issue with modern switch blocks is that they use puny, very low rated contacts, thus their need for extra relays etc. Just my thoughts.

 

[timetraveller]

The heating effect of a current passing through a resistance is the current (amps) squared times the resistance (ohms). Suppose that one had a six volt, forty eight watt head light bulb then that would take eight amps. Going up to a twelve volt system and a sixty watt bulb would drop the current down to five amps. Eight squared is sixty four and five squared is twenty five so with regards to heating in wires and switches etc. there is less than half the effect with the twelve volt system when compared with the earlier six volt system. For those using a ‘Walkernator’ on a twin I recommend using a 130/90 head light bulb. That takes just under eleven amps, which when squared gives one hundred and twenty one, that is roughly double the heating that would have occurred with the old forty eight watt system. When Dick Sherwin and I developed the system the heating in wires and switches was one thing that I checked very carefully but so far I have never been able to detect any heating in any wires or switches in the system. Of course, if you have poor connections or worn through wiring you will get problems. The old style dip switches in particular are one place that I would be careful with.

 

[Howard]

I think Martyn's right. I just swapped to 12 volt with a cheap multi-purpose switch, that had wires you'd need a magnifying glass to see. I've used a small relay from Ebay. 5 connections, an earth, a positive from the dip switch, a positive from the ammeter, a lead to the main beam and one to the dip beam. Switching the positive from the switch on and off (use either the main or dip) changes the relay between main and dip. Jobs a good un, without all that wire, and fits in a 6 1/2" headlamp. H

 

[macvette]

I think Martyn's right. I just swapped to 12 volt with a cheap multi-purpose switch, that had wires you'd need a magnifying glass to see. I've used a small relay from Ebay. 5 connections, an earth, a positive from the dip switch, a positive from the ammeter, a lead to the main beam and one to the dip beam. Switching the positive from the switch on and off (use either the main or dip) changes the relay between main and dip. Jobs a good un, without all that wire, and fits in a 6 1/2" headlamp. H

.
Hi,
When I rewired my D during the rebuild, keeping it at 6 volts, I used a 6 volt relay from a VW beetle and quartz bulbs. Works great. I had normal bulbs with this set up before I fitted the qh bulbs and the improvement in fitting the relay was marked. The quartz bulbs provided an additional boost.

Regards Mac

 

[Bazlerker]

The increase in brightness when using a relay is proof of decreased resistance in the system. I have purchased several items from Eastern Beaver for my Vstrom..all are very well made and reasonably priced.

 

[Monkeypants]

As I have added self cancelling indicators, a heated vest plug in, a powered GPS dock and extra brake light to my Rapide, I now have a ton of wiring. It would be nice to start anew and use a small circuit board. The old way with one fuse for everything was perhaps OK on the original bikes which had very little in the way of wiring.
Now with all these circuits a problem can be very hard to trace. I have added a couple of switches and fuses, but it still remains that if the horn , tailight, brakelight, headlight, speedo light, ignition, charging wire and a few others go to ground, the main fuse pops and everything stops, the head scratching begins.

Has anyone come up with a small fuse panel that would fit in a hidden or nearly hidden location?
For the Glenli I ended up with 12 circuits, two six place boards, all tucked out of view and out of the weather under the rear cowl.
Even a single six place board would be a big improvement, but I have not come up with a good location.
Has anyone found a way to tuck in a circuit board in a good dry, hidden location? It also needs to be easily accessible.
I'm considering making a bit larger battery box with some sort of little door that hinges down, the circuit board being mounted on the door.

Glen

 

[vibrac]

Was there a fuse in the original factory wiring?
I cannot remember any

 

[Monkeypants]

Good question. I have one bike that was restored locally here, I look to it as an example as it has far less add ons than my Oz Rapide, although I have since added a Chinamo and a 12 volt JG regulator to the package. This bike came to me with all black wiring and one twenty amp glass fuse on the ground wire. The previous owner had spent big$
having a total end to end mechanical resto of this bike done, but left the old Lucas E3L in place.The bike has a D distributor for ignition. After all of the agony of going thru the costly rebuild , he still had electrical problems with the bike. On nearly every ride he attempted, the battery would go flat, usually after blowing the fuse once or twice.
In the end, he rode the bike just 550 miles in twenty years, at which point I bought it from him. The fellow who had done the resto work suggested I replace the generator, which I did. Interestingly, I found a couple of large invoices for electrical investigation work the Previous owner had done. They could not find any problem with the bikes electrical and the Lucas generstor checked out OK.
I thougt I had the problem solved with the Chinamo, but it wasn't long before the old gremlin appeared. I finally found the problem on a night ride. I could see sparks flashing around the headlight switch , which wa a Lucas pattern replacement item.
It occurred to me that a few circuit fuses would have made it very clear that this intermittent problem was in the headlight circuit. Then the previous owner might have enjoyed riding the bike for twenty years instead of sadly bringing it home in the back of a pickup truck each time!.

 

[Bazlerker]

I have just installed a PC-8 fusebox from Eastern Beaver in my Vstrom...it has switched as well as unswitched circuits..