Do I need a refresh?

KennyNUT

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Hi Martyn,

Thanks for your effort and support in the above responses.

To point #1, I think this motor is in good shape. Mechanically, I have received comments on its quietness, which is reassuring. On the oil front, I did want to put a multigrade into as, somewhere I read about the detergents dissolving some of "the sludge" that may build up in certain areas of the engine and circulate that to the detriment of all moving parts if a multigrade was added. What would be best, as I don't intend to touch the bottom end? :confused: To be fair what came out the Comet, looked very clean to me and I have been dropping oil out of various bikes for a few years, now. Someone might add that it looks so clean because the 40 wt does not contain detergents, however, part of the oil's job is to clean, as well as protect, lubricate and cool. Anyway, what I saw come out looked like it had a great deal of life left in it. As a top end rebuild, is on the cards, this will be consigned to correct "local oil waste treatment" and fresh oil and filter added to the rebuild list. :)

To point #2, I will work on the connectors when the bike is laid up. Its not a complicated loom, only a bit of a fiddly job, so shouldn't take too long. :rolleyes:

To point #3, I don't honestly believe this bike needs an anti-sump valve, I just thought as the oil was out, this would be a useful time to fit one and avoid any carbon build up in the cylinder and plug from start ups between uses as the bike is not used every day and can be lead up a few weeks between uses, though hopefully, less in 2015. I may skip this bit based on your comment and save that money to treat the kids! :D

To point #4, I thought the bike did have a leak here and there and after nipping up the pushrod covers onto their washers and the inspection caps, all seems good on the top end. The leak on the LHS was the breather dropping oil around/onto the chain and with more regular recent use, that has gone. THE only leak that I am aware of is at the RHS of the bike coming from the brass nut covering the oil pump (?) My plan there was to take that cap off, now the oil is out, put some sealant on the threads (ONLY) and put it back in. My understanding is there is not a gasket or anything on that. So far I haven't touched it as I couldn't even see if it was tight as the main oil feed line runs over the nut, hindering access. (That's the oil line you can see in the picture tied to the exhaust with a nylon tie to ensure all the oil goes into the catch tray).

To point #5, I did not plan to do anything with the breather, though I understand in principle your explanation. If the breather was not working as it should, I suspect my engine would be 100x worse than I describe it to be. This is the first bike that I have owned to leak a little bit of oil, so it probably sounds worse from me than it is. My mates, including my friend Rob who rides his late father's Black Shadow, was not concerned. My 1924 New Imperial runs a total loss system and apart from draining anything from the bottom of the crankcase before I start it, it basically, does not leak oil either. It drips oil into the top end with one tube from the oil tank and through a manual pump (set to a predetermined drip rate into the bronze crank bearings with the other tube). That's it and I recently did a 54 mile trip in the Jimmie Guthrie Memorial Run earlier this summer! Its a super bike to ride and won "The Jimmie Guthrie Memorial Trophy" for best in show!! The excess oil I saw on the LHS (back to the Comet) in point 4 above has all cleared up and only a tiny amount goes onto the chain now, so I believe that to be OK. The bike has sat for 13 days since my last ride out and I put a white towel underneath it. Nothing! Only 2 drips ready to drop. One from the brass nut covering the oil pump and the other was just excess from the breather side and possibly what was left over from the last ride to run down that breather exit pipe.

I think there is a certain peace of mind that comes from knowing your bike better and I am embarking down that path now.

In terms of what I have disconnected, I have seen copper slip on "this and that" and everything appears to be neatly finished, so that my impressions of the bike is that it looks to be a solid bit of kit that was well looked after and not a "superficial lash up". It seems consistent with the last owner being a motorcycle mechanic. I may also have found what x described as metering wires already fitted and neatly done too. I will photograph those to, hopefully, confirm this is what they are later this morning. I can't say that I have not enjoyed my time around the bike so far.

One of my "Velo friends" popped around yesterday and he is quite impressed with some of the "engineering on the bike". He is a fan of Phil Irving and recently lent me "Phil Irving - An autobiography" which I have not yet started!"

Anyway, its time for breakfast, a couple of chores and then back to the Vincent. Will post some images later.

Thanks, again Martyn.

I do wish some of you guys lived a little closer! :)
 

nkt267

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I do wish some of you guys lived a little closer! :)
On the scale of things I'm just round the corner compared to Martyn..If you're in Suffolk drop in..
Seriously this is where the Club and Forum excel. You may get slightly different advice from many people on how to put right the things you're not sure about,BUT we have all learnt from long experience with Vincents (Comets in my case).
You also have great advice from the likes of Trevor and others who are very skilled engineers in there own right..We are there to help you as is you're nearest section..John
 

greg brillus

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
That's an excellent overview of your Comet Martyn, you sure have gone through and learnt a lot.....the outcome has been that you now are rewarded with a Top machine in perfect running condition. It must be said that these same issues apply to all engines, and to keep any classic machine oil tight is not an easy thing to do full stop. I feel that no matter what opinions others have, A Vincent has a breather that is way too small for the capacities they are. But if the engine is correctly put together and beaded in with some care, then the standard breather will work ok. The relationship between the alloy Muff, the liner and the cylinder head joints are one part that needs very careful attention, especially the gap on the heads broad face to be checked before the head and barrel are torqued down to the correct figure. If these are overlooked, the usual remedy of tightening the head bolts down further will almost certainly result in distortion of the liner/barrel......The rings will not seal correctly, and/or the piston/s may on a hot day grab at the points where the hold down studs pass through the assembly......No breather will fix this problem....like all these things, doing it right is the only way, and not hard to achieve. That's what these forums are for. Cheers......Greg.
 

Howard

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
You've stirred a few comments, Kenny. My two pennorth on the anti-sumping valve - when it works it stops a bit of smoke on start-up, and takes a bit less effort on the kickstart. When it sticks (and some do) you end up with a bill for new pistons/rebore (and possibly more), and, as happened to a friend earlier in the year, you can have the embarrassment and pain of having to hitch a lift on the pillion on an Egli. Always been an easy choice for me.

H
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
For rolling away my UFM, I installed one of these at the rear of the UFM to disconnect the wiring.

11147955.1.jpg


It is polarized and has screw terminals for the wiring.
 

KennyNUT

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Howard,

I hope I have stirred a few comments in a good way.

This is only my second thread that I have ever started and on both occasions, I have been blown away by the great comments, enthusiasm and support and from my earlier thread even met a new friend, Rob who lives locally who called to try and help, and now visits me from time to time on his Black Shadow. I may even have experienced some humour. :D And then there is the Spares Co. All these things are what I think keeps the Vincent scene thriving. Did I mention the bikes!!!!!, Of course, those too. And there are so many publications. And none of this would ever happen without people, the owners, the engineers, the authors, the experimentalists, the curious, ..... well the list goes on and on.

Ok so back to why I logged back on today. A couple of hours ago saw me continue with the removal of the head and barrel. I didn't remove the piston, and I will get to that. (Sorry to those who have done this a hundred times, but this is my first , so I hope you excuse my excitement and curiosity).

So:

1. Off came the retaining nuts by loosening the lock nuts and out came the pushrods and then I pushed the pushrod covers down gently and square to the o-ring glands going into the timing chest, due to their splayed angle. They needed to be clear of the head before lifting it off.
2. I pulled gently on the head and whilst it rocked ever so slightly it didn't come up by more than a millimetre (ahem about a 1/16").
3. 5 gentle taps with the rubber mallet onto a block of wood across the fins on all four sides and it gave very nicely. So off it came.
4. The exhaust was fully removed and the same approach with the barrel as in step 3 and it came out beautifully from the crankcase to reveal what I believe to be close to a brand new piston and rings. And a modern one, too. I will go through all those historical receipts again! The base gasket came too, of course.
5. All removed parts were put in a labelled box.
6. The head, after being photographed and now minus spark plug and oil line bolts/washers was wrapped up in newspaper as was the liner and carefully double boxed up with polystyrene chippings, ready to ship off to Simon Linford.

Before packing everything up and tidying up, I called my Velo friend over as I was keen to show the liner and piston to get a second opinion. I had also formed an educated guess on the head and was keen to share some thoughts.

Of course, as per day one (Saturday), I video'd and photographed what I found.

Some example images below:

L1020792.jpg

This was pretty much my start point for today. Quick question - are these the metering wires that have
been highlighted in earlier replies ? They run through a very fine hole in the locknut that is below
the oil bolt that I replaced (so I did not loose it), next to the inspection cap. There is wire on both inlet
and exhaust valves.

L1020797.jpg

Ok, heads off, followed by a liner that just glided off the crankcase.
Gunge at the base seems to be heavy grease (clean with no grit).

L1020800.jpg

Ok, barrel and liner is out to reveal what I believe to be a near new piston
and very modern looking rings. Its so new looking, that maybe the
500 miles on the speedometer is a reflection of when that was replaced??
Never mentioned at the time of sale!

L1020801.jpg

That's the piston as it came out. I have not cleaned it in any way.
I was surprised that there is no carbon build up at all. There is fresh soot
on the inside of the exhaust that I removed.

P1050140.jpg

I am no expert but the VOC stamp indicates a new piston?

P1050141.jpg

And on the other side. Ok so you want to see the thrust side don't you?

P1050142.jpg

The marks that you see here half way down the piston skirt are light refractive marks
marks and are so light that they cannot be felt either by the pad of my finger
nor with my nail. The most prominent marks are the circular machining!

P1050139.jpg

This is the front of the piston (please excuse the spark plug cable that is a
little in the way). Only bedding in around the skirt of the piston, again only visible under flash photography
and the lighter mark that you can see (RHS) is just a reflection of the fluorescent tube in my garage.
Ok so what does the liner look like?

P1050121.jpg

So straight to it this time! The thrust side (oil hole left of centre) shows a few vertical back marks, but again that is all
they are. They cannot be felt by the finger or the nail. And prominent are the honing marks.
The top end (furthest away) at the head end is so clean, no marks.

P1050121.jpg

And opposite the oil hole, so the front side of the barrel. Again, light refractive marks.
No physical marking can be felt. That darker mark is not a ridge. It cannot be felt at all.
Confirmed with a second opinion.


P1050124.jpg

And finally...... the head. Again, I am no expert but the valve seat on the exhaust valve side does not
look so good, especially at the side closer to the spark plug. The seat for the inlet by comparison looks so
much better. The only other thing that occurs to me that was mentioned in an earlier reply was to
replace the springs. This may be a coincidence but when the head was lying on this side, oil was
weeping in through the valve seat from the top side. Could the springs be weak as well in combination with the carbon
build up and possibly damaged valve seat to prevent sealing of the combustion chamber? I cannot test that and will
happily agree to replacing them, anyway, just in case they are very tired.

So, my non-expert diagnosis is piston and barrel are fine and totally serviceable, bordering on new. My Velo friend
who dismantles and rebuilds bikes and has parts laser scanned etc agrees 100% with the liner condition and the piston.
I will send the barrel to Simon Linford, anyway, to have it double checked by measurement and keep the piston on the
con rod for now unless it is requested. The other giveaway on the newness of the piston, in case anyone asks was the dot matrix stamping
on the piston crown indicating a series of numbers and the compression of 7.3:1, together with the letters "Exh" to indicate the orientation of the piston (which is correct)!!

The head - I believe this is where all my problems lie. I am sure any psychiatrists amongst you will understand that sentiment in a slightly different way!

So its time to take a break from the computer. Hope you enjoyed today's instalment and I have not upset anyone with my lack of engineering prowess, misuse of terms or descriptions. I just describe things as I see them.
have a great night, if in the Northern hemisphere or "good morning" to those in the Southern hemisphere.

Cheers, Kenny.

 

davidd

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
It looks quite good! I would seal the crank case to cylinder base joint. It looks like someone put some oil on the cylinder and/or rings during assembly. I am not sure they bedded in. A deglaze and a new set of rings should work.

David
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Ken, may I suggest a new OP33 with an O ring. Much easier to fit and remove than using a sealant. I think the spares company has them in stock.
 

Martyn Goodwin

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Wow Ken! Great to see that you have well and truly embarked on your Vincent adventure. You simply cannot take too many photos - when it comes to reassembly and or subsequent review you will be glad you did. Likewise it is impossible to over label any parts you remove from the bike. We have all been there, done that and wished we had done better.

I recommend you fit the full set of upgraded seals to your Comet that are available from V3 - see the advert in the back of most editions of MPH. Of course, no matter what you think of the base gasket you removed - fit a new one. Judicious of a sealant like Loctite 510 is also highly recommended on both the primary side cases and also the timing side case - if you disturb them. The good part of 510 is that any excess that's on the inside of the motor does NOT set into a rock hard mass that's just waiting to break free and play havoc with the oilways.

Not sure if I mentioned earlier - my Comet was a massive smoker not long after I purchased it: The issue was that even though a "head job" had been done on it , the valve guides had not been installed correctly nor had the upper and lower valve guides been honed into alignment - for my Comet it meant new seats, new valves, new guides and new springs. I added valve stem seals just to complete the set! Hope you have better luck.

One final recommendation - you may want to keep all of the receipts for the parts and the work you have done on your Comet - but do not fall into the trap of maintaining a running total of the amount spent - Ignorance in this case is bliss.

Martyn
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Further to what Martyn has said. I have just bought a set of gaskets from the Chicago section and wow! They are a sandwich gasket with nitrile over aluminium and are used without sealant. They are said to be re-usable many times and I would believe it. Not cheap but I reckon they will pay for themselves over the years. The V3 seals for banjos, rocker caps and oil feed bolts are the easiest answer to stopping the annoying little leaks and seeps that spoil the look of the engine and waste our time in cleaning it all up. After 30 years of Vincent ownership I am still learning stuff.
 
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