C: Clutch Multiplate clutch which to buy

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I have fitted two club clutches with over 25k miles on one and 5k miles on the other. No problems when fitted properly to the mainshaft with correct clearence (ie as little as possible). I did find a dished plain plate helped stop a slight grabbing tendency on the first one. The second one never needed it.
This clutch is from a relatively new batch as I made clear so of course earlier batches are ok
 

Martyn Goodwin

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Non-VOC Member
Yep i ve done all in all about 70 K Km on them and still know shit, and dicipline makes it going on trying new ideas, (as is writing in a notebook) et all.
Now trying your idea about that thinner oil (diesel EP), i hope the followers dont clapper out...:rolleyes:
Followers are easy to replace. Now big ends and mains are much harder - I KNOW!
 

chankly bore

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Non-VOC Member
Yes that pretty much sums it up. You look at their ideas and you see signs of brilliance, and signs of a cash strapped company who struggled the whole way. I've been working part time and now full time on these bikes for about 10 years now, which some would say is just an apprenticeship. But everyday i come across things that still surprise me. Still over the years there have been many a varied machine I have worked on, and almost all older machinery, and there are far worse machines to work on than a Vincent. I've just finished repairing probably the worst set of twin cases I've ever seen, Had a customer bring his bike in, very hard to start and backfiring.........Changed the worn ATD springs...........fixed and back on the road, now I have a 48 Rapide come in after the owner hit a real bad patch of road, buckled both rims, split the rear rim..........120 mm crack along the rim, worst still..........the Brampton's are buggered too, both bent and twisted...........:eek:.
Yeah, you've got to remember that Britain didn't get a Marshall plan, and everything was made on pre-war machine tools that were near clapped out after 6 years of making hard bits of metal to throw at the Hun. I remember an apocryphal tale that illustrates this; when A.J.S. moved from the Plumstead Works, they suddenly found they couldn't bore crankcases in line any more, they asked a retired employee who hadn't made the move. "Ah", he said, "you've not taken the piece of wood"-which was what they used to lever things into line. As I said, apocryphal, but if you read about post-war British industry, close to the truth, and the reason for "selective fit" components. Try explaining selective fit to a Toyota employee.Recommended reading, "The machine that changed the World". by James P. Womack, et.al. I'll go back to reading poetry now.
 

Black Flash

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VOC Member
Thank you very much for all the tips, hints and opinions still coming in. I keep phoning my friend and telling him. It is a pity that he cannot write and speak English and therefore is a bit shy.
He told me during our last conversation that he had just returned from the Manx grand prix and how much he liked it.
He also told me that he saw a few club members but didn't address them as he thought his English was not sufficient enough.
Bernd
 

Little Honda

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Non-VOC Member
The subject is What multi-plate to buy not what clutch to buy
And as I said in my case it must be nice to have a multi-plate that drags, first get it to grip....
Try Ernst Hegeler´s Norton-type clutch, and you can forget any issues. It´s in his Lightning since years
without trouble. I have it in my Norvin and no trouble ever since. Neville Higgins has it, as well, ask him.
The original clutch is fine, if you operate it, as intended. Correctly assembled, it will work for years with
no trouble, but: It cannot interrupt at high revs. All your gains in acceleration are lost, when trying to change
gear. This is the only advantage of multiplate.
 

ernie

VOC Assistant Secretary
VOC Member
I have to confess an error. It transpires that my problem with the V2 was that the clutch hub not was not going fully home. This was because the gearbox mainshaft seems to be the later type with a shoulder for different oil sealing. The recess in my clutch nut is 10 thou smaller than the shoulder and so does not go fully on.If I had a lathe I could correct this but instead use a conveniently sized washer which pushes the hub all the way back perfectly. So the spigot that I have reduced in length now makes that hub useless without a packing!

IMG_2254.JPG
IMG_2255.JPG

So I believe that the component should be checked is the D type clutch nut. This probably explains why I could not get the Vincent clutch oil-tight! The nut on the left is the Videan one for a V3 and suffers the same issue.

Jury is out on the HD plates. They slipped but I was in a hurry and adjustment may have been wrong. I used the old plates.
 
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Chris Launders

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VOC Member
Just out of interest has anyone converted a Commando diaphragm clutch to fit a Vincent twin, the one on my Norvin with Norton box has never given the slightest trouble.
 

Comet Rider

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VOC Member
Hi Chris,
My recently purchased Rapide has a "Slater" Norton clutch, whilst I haven't looked yet, it does feel like a diaphragm clutch.
I will be taking a look next weekend, and can take a couple of pic's for you

Neil
 
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