C: Clutch Multiplate clutch which to buy

[Chris Launders]

That would be great if it is Neil, I had a Rapide 40 years ago with a normal Norton clutch and that was ok, I tried another a couple of years ago when having trouble with my standard clutch but it either dragged or slipped and I was wondering about the diaphragm one.
I've an idea it would need more lift but I have been considering "inventing" another type of mechanism to go inside the gearbox cover to do this.

Chris.

 

[nickthehod]

As a commando owner of 20 years I can assure you the commando boys talk about their clutches almost as much as we do. The biggest issue is to get the stack height correct so the diaphragm spring goes over centre properly and to use a hardened clutch centre. Mine is pretty much standard though well set up and has about 50k miles on it now......

 

[Chris Launders]

I had one on my Dommi for at least 10 years and then on the Norvin for going on 15 years so I've got over the setting up stage, both run belt drives, so dry like the Vincent.

 

[Bill Cannon]

Just out of interest has anyone converted a Commando diaphragm clutch to fit a Vincent twin, the one on my Norvin with Norton box has never given the slightest trouble.

I have a belt drive Commando clutch on my Egli with Vincent gearbox. It has been trouble free for about 15,000 miles.
Had problems with insufficient lift but made a rather ugly "outrigger" bracket to move the pivot point down outside the gearbox cover with a much longer lever. Also the centre splines are not an accurate fit to the Vincent input shaft but this hasn't caused any issues so far. It's a bit heavy in operation but I have only recently learned about the issue with getting the stack height correct so that's something I will look into in the future.
Bill

 

[hadronuk]

I hope someone will test the fix I used for my V2 clutch.

Running in oil caused too much drag and needed strong springs to prevent slip.

Running dry after very, very lightly greasing the friction plates (Ducati owners solution) was better, but still needed strong springs and only ran for 500 miles before the plates became sticky.

Running totally dry after cleaning with MEK gave fantastic grip, so only light springs needed. But after a few miles it grabbed violently. So I dipped the friction plates in a 5% solution of Archoil AR2400 dry lubricant in alcohol, then let them dry.

3000+ miles later I still have a grippy but progressive clutch that is as light as a standard clutch.

However, my V2 clutch appears to be an early version and uses sintered metal friction plates, like the Ducati MHR.
Whether this dry lubricant fix also works for fibre plates needs testing!
For what it's worth, I did try running some loaned fibre friction plates dry after washing them in MEK.
They gave high grip, so light springs could be probably used, but the grabbing was awful.

One additional benefit of the all metal clutch is that there is virtually no wear visible, although it must have done at least 20,000 miles.

 

[bmetcalf]

Does an all new standard clutch cost too much more than these multi plate units? Touch wood, but my standard clutch has been fine for 37 years, with new corks, then a disc, new linings and springs.

 

[greg brillus]

If you add up the cost of all the parts it ends up well over $1500 .......... So the multi's are quite a bit cheaper. Unless you pick up a good second hand one and rebuild it, I think an original type built from new parts is expensive.

 

[Vincent Brake]

I have to confess an error. It transpires that my problem with the V2 was that the clutch hub not was not going fully home. This was because the gearbox mainshaft seems to be the later type with a shoulder for different oil sealing. The recess in my clutch nut is 10 thou smaller than the shoulder and so does not go fully on.If I had a lathe I could correct this but instead use a conveniently sized washer which pushes the hub all the way back perfectly. So the spigot that I have reduced in length now makes that hub useless without a packing!

View attachment 17409 View attachment 17410
So I believe that the component should be checked is the D type clutch nut. This probably explains why I could not get the Vincent clutch oil-tight! The nut on the left is the Videan one for a V3 and suffers the same issue.

Jury is out on the HD plates. They slipped but I was in a hurry and adjustment may have been wrong. I used the old plates.

in Need of a Lathe?

 

[vibrac]

The fault (wrong nut) that Ernie refers to does explain his problem but in my case the centre was correctly located with the correct nut and the cage would still move backwards and thus reduce spring pressure. My temporary fix of 2 washers (=69 thou) twixt chain wheel and outer basket did cure the slip, and subsequent measurement of the spigot on the centre revealed it was 60 thou longer than the drawing. The spigot is now away being sorted and the alphabet twin is retired till the spring and will have to start climbing up the jobs list all over again