The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Wheel bearing extraction
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="davidd" data-source="post: 111756" data-attributes="member: 1177"><p>I have always believed that the best way to remove bearing races is with a TIG welder. If you can locate someone to do that it will be relatively easy. The welder runs a bead around the inside of the bearing race. Neatness is not important. Often as the hub heats up it will release the bearing. This is due to the fact that the weld bead, as it cools in place will make the diameter of the race smaller. The race will often knock out with light taps from a punch when the bead is done and the hub is still warm. It should also tap out easily when the whole unit is cool.</p><p></p><p>I often weld in a piece of scrap so I can tap straight down with a steel rod. I do this after welding the bead on the race.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]29461[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]29462[/ATTACH]</p><p>There is no flame or spatter with TIG.</p><p></p><p>David</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="davidd, post: 111756, member: 1177"] I have always believed that the best way to remove bearing races is with a TIG welder. If you can locate someone to do that it will be relatively easy. The welder runs a bead around the inside of the bearing race. Neatness is not important. Often as the hub heats up it will release the bearing. This is due to the fact that the weld bead, as it cools in place will make the diameter of the race smaller. The race will often knock out with light taps from a punch when the bead is done and the hub is still warm. It should also tap out easily when the whole unit is cool. I often weld in a piece of scrap so I can tap straight down with a steel rod. I do this after welding the bead on the race. [ATTACH type="full"]29461[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]29462[/ATTACH] There is no flame or spatter with TIG. David [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
What was Mr Vincent's Christian Name?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Wheel bearing extraction
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top