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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
V3 clutch drag
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<blockquote data-quote="Oldhaven" data-source="post: 66342" data-attributes="member: 2879"><p>My V3 is one of the very first ones, bought long ago and not used until this year, as are the instructions I quoted, so they cannot be relied on in light of development or experience over the years that has changed the way they are used. I am not even sure the friction plates are the same material now. I would be interested to hear what your instructions recommend, and if they are the same. For my machine,I drilled the chaincase and tapped the holes as the instructions suggest so I can fill and drain any lubricant. The inner chaincase seal is intact and I used a new Cometic gasket with a newly purchased deep club spares dome, so it is quite oil tight. (My old original B dome leaked and was too shallow). I noticed in something Martyn mentioned today in another thread that I may have messed things up by using ATF instead of 10w lightweight oil. I can run the same type of lubricant for the chaincase as the clutch in case the inner chaincase seal leaks by since I used a sealed bearing on the crank mainshaft and I should get no mixing in of engine oil. (So far since the rebuild this is true). I will change to the light oil next year for the spring startup, but still plan to try it as Plan B with the cleaning and 3 hour soak , then run with that residual oil coating for 3000 Kilometers (not miles) before doing it all again. I could be OK with adding oil to the clutch, since I have increased lift, but I won't know unless the empty clutch dome scheme does not work and I change to Plan A. For your use in a parade, does that mean a lot of stop and go?</p><p></p><p>Ron</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Oldhaven, post: 66342, member: 2879"] My V3 is one of the very first ones, bought long ago and not used until this year, as are the instructions I quoted, so they cannot be relied on in light of development or experience over the years that has changed the way they are used. I am not even sure the friction plates are the same material now. I would be interested to hear what your instructions recommend, and if they are the same. For my machine,I drilled the chaincase and tapped the holes as the instructions suggest so I can fill and drain any lubricant. The inner chaincase seal is intact and I used a new Cometic gasket with a newly purchased deep club spares dome, so it is quite oil tight. (My old original B dome leaked and was too shallow). I noticed in something Martyn mentioned today in another thread that I may have messed things up by using ATF instead of 10w lightweight oil. I can run the same type of lubricant for the chaincase as the clutch in case the inner chaincase seal leaks by since I used a sealed bearing on the crank mainshaft and I should get no mixing in of engine oil. (So far since the rebuild this is true). I will change to the light oil next year for the spring startup, but still plan to try it as Plan B with the cleaning and 3 hour soak , then run with that residual oil coating for 3000 Kilometers (not miles) before doing it all again. I could be OK with adding oil to the clutch, since I have increased lift, but I won't know unless the empty clutch dome scheme does not work and I change to Plan A. For your use in a parade, does that mean a lot of stop and go? Ron [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
V3 clutch drag
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