The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
V3 clutch drag
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Oldhaven" data-source="post: 66229" data-attributes="member: 2879"><p>I put the bike away for the winter today after a short run. The clutch is behaving itself nicely, at least for the few miles I did. I ran it without oil in the housing, but the plates were quite wet from the summer it ran in oil. Here is a condensed version of the instructions V3 version 2.01 for the clutch plates:</p><p></p><p>"The V3 clutch is designed to be run in oil and to be maintenance free.......However....the V3 clutch can be run dry like the Vincent unit. The disadvantage of this is that periodic maintenance at 3000 km intervals is recommended. This involves dismantling the V3 clutch, washing the plates in petrol or similar solvent, and then soaking them in Shell Advance Lightweight Gear Oil 10W/SAE10 (or equivalent for at least 3 hours prior to reassembly."</p><p></p><p>I suppose much has been learned since this was written last century, but I think I will try it anyway. For my mileage this will just be an annual maintenance thing.</p><p></p><p>Other things to note from work before I put it together;</p><p></p><p>The tabs on the plates were not very consistent in size. They varied in distance across the tab from .525 to .519, though the majority of them were around .520 to .521. I "blueprinted" them all with a file, as Greg suggests, and settled on .520 as the target. I found that one stroke of a sharp file was equal to a .001 reduction, so this was pretty easy. (I did not figure out how to add material with a file....) I then stoned all the tabs to remove any sharp edges or the remains of the shearing marks from when they were made. This did improve the slide fit, at least they went in quite nicely by hand.</p><p></p><p>The plates again lifted unevenly when I reassembled the clutch, despite my previous work. I carefully swapped springs around, but still got some cocking and eventually had to add three washers under each of three springs to get even lift. I may order a new set of springs this winter, since I probably have the heavy original type, and I think there may be newer versions that are softer now, and perhaps more equal in strength.</p><p></p><p>The travel I am getting from the top of the G91 fork to abutment is 11/16" and the travel at the hand lever is 3/4", so I am getting some compression of the cable housing. I will try to fix that. Again from the V3 instructions:</p><p></p><p>"The clutch cable should be Bowden type outer casing as this does not compress the coils around the bends and hence eliminates the sponginess associated with some low cost inferior outer casings."</p><p></p><p>All in all, a pretty interesting exercise. Hopefully next summer will be trouble free.</p><p></p><p>Ron</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Oldhaven, post: 66229, member: 2879"] I put the bike away for the winter today after a short run. The clutch is behaving itself nicely, at least for the few miles I did. I ran it without oil in the housing, but the plates were quite wet from the summer it ran in oil. Here is a condensed version of the instructions V3 version 2.01 for the clutch plates: "The V3 clutch is designed to be run in oil and to be maintenance free.......However....the V3 clutch can be run dry like the Vincent unit. The disadvantage of this is that periodic maintenance at 3000 km intervals is recommended. This involves dismantling the V3 clutch, washing the plates in petrol or similar solvent, and then soaking them in Shell Advance Lightweight Gear Oil 10W/SAE10 (or equivalent for at least 3 hours prior to reassembly." I suppose much has been learned since this was written last century, but I think I will try it anyway. For my mileage this will just be an annual maintenance thing. Other things to note from work before I put it together; The tabs on the plates were not very consistent in size. They varied in distance across the tab from .525 to .519, though the majority of them were around .520 to .521. I "blueprinted" them all with a file, as Greg suggests, and settled on .520 as the target. I found that one stroke of a sharp file was equal to a .001 reduction, so this was pretty easy. (I did not figure out how to add material with a file....) I then stoned all the tabs to remove any sharp edges or the remains of the shearing marks from when they were made. This did improve the slide fit, at least they went in quite nicely by hand. The plates again lifted unevenly when I reassembled the clutch, despite my previous work. I carefully swapped springs around, but still got some cocking and eventually had to add three washers under each of three springs to get even lift. I may order a new set of springs this winter, since I probably have the heavy original type, and I think there may be newer versions that are softer now, and perhaps more equal in strength. The travel I am getting from the top of the G91 fork to abutment is 11/16" and the travel at the hand lever is 3/4", so I am getting some compression of the cable housing. I will try to fix that. Again from the V3 instructions: "The clutch cable should be Bowden type outer casing as this does not compress the coils around the bends and hence eliminates the sponginess associated with some low cost inferior outer casings." All in all, a pretty interesting exercise. Hopefully next summer will be trouble free. Ron [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
What was Mr Irving's Christian Name?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
V3 clutch drag
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top