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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
V3 clutch drag
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<blockquote data-quote="greg brillus" data-source="post: 65299" data-attributes="member: 597"><p>Even when you look at bikes that come originally with multi plates, they do not actually have that much travel themselves. This would therefore lead one to assume that the available travel you can get with the Vincent twin is enough. All things being equal, I feel this to be true, The first question I would ask, is the clutch being run wet or dry....? If it is dry, and of the original V3 setup then the clutch plates will overheat and cause the ultimate symptom you described. The available oil space is very limiting and requires frequent changing (annually) dependent on usage. Excess wobble in the chainwheel bushes will definitely NOT help, as a multi plate should run as true as it can, this is also why I suggested that you dress off all the ears on the friction plates as Ron Mentioned earlier, thus enabling the clutch pack to free off easier......I have discussed this issue with Neal Videan at length myself. A handlebar lever with 1 1/8 pivot centers is a must, and adjust the G 91/1 lever so it starts pushing with the lever closer to the RHS or nearest the inspection cap as possible, this with the cable adjuster. On some machines, I think very early ones, if the G 91/1 operates too far in, it can inhibit down shifting, as the G 66 lever can hit it with the clutch lever depressed. I think I have struck this one a couple of times before. One item that if available would definitely help, is a G91/1 lever with more length at the very bottom. This would ultimately change the leverage ratio in favor of more lift. Use a VERY THIN oil to lube the plates, like a semi synthetic 10W oil say for modern auto engines. ATF does work ok, but becomes dirty quite quickly. Finally adjust up the lift from a cold engine so there is minimal free play at the handlebar lever, this will increase as the engine warms up. Use a couple of freeing off kicks first start of the day, which will feel a bit draggy, after engine start, engage 2nd gear then down shift to first. After which, the centrifugal action will throw most oil out of the plates, and the clutch will act like a dry clutch with no more drag for the rest of the day. This action applies daily. I feel a twin with a multiplate would work best with a dry clutch, as the clutch on the racer works very well dry. But you MUST have plates that can run dry, as standard wet plates overheat very quickly, if run dry. Cheers for now...............Greg.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="greg brillus, post: 65299, member: 597"] Even when you look at bikes that come originally with multi plates, they do not actually have that much travel themselves. This would therefore lead one to assume that the available travel you can get with the Vincent twin is enough. All things being equal, I feel this to be true, The first question I would ask, is the clutch being run wet or dry....? If it is dry, and of the original V3 setup then the clutch plates will overheat and cause the ultimate symptom you described. The available oil space is very limiting and requires frequent changing (annually) dependent on usage. Excess wobble in the chainwheel bushes will definitely NOT help, as a multi plate should run as true as it can, this is also why I suggested that you dress off all the ears on the friction plates as Ron Mentioned earlier, thus enabling the clutch pack to free off easier......I have discussed this issue with Neal Videan at length myself. A handlebar lever with 1 1/8 pivot centers is a must, and adjust the G 91/1 lever so it starts pushing with the lever closer to the RHS or nearest the inspection cap as possible, this with the cable adjuster. On some machines, I think very early ones, if the G 91/1 operates too far in, it can inhibit down shifting, as the G 66 lever can hit it with the clutch lever depressed. I think I have struck this one a couple of times before. One item that if available would definitely help, is a G91/1 lever with more length at the very bottom. This would ultimately change the leverage ratio in favor of more lift. Use a VERY THIN oil to lube the plates, like a semi synthetic 10W oil say for modern auto engines. ATF does work ok, but becomes dirty quite quickly. Finally adjust up the lift from a cold engine so there is minimal free play at the handlebar lever, this will increase as the engine warms up. Use a couple of freeing off kicks first start of the day, which will feel a bit draggy, after engine start, engage 2nd gear then down shift to first. After which, the centrifugal action will throw most oil out of the plates, and the clutch will act like a dry clutch with no more drag for the rest of the day. This action applies daily. I feel a twin with a multiplate would work best with a dry clutch, as the clutch on the racer works very well dry. But you MUST have plates that can run dry, as standard wet plates overheat very quickly, if run dry. Cheers for now...............Greg. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
V3 clutch drag
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