Misc: Everything Else Updated Wiring Diagram for Safety Modernization using LED's

[Jim Bush]

Thanks for all the feedback and ideas.

I looked at adding a quick disconnect at the headlight, but found since all the wires run in one sleeve to the battery area, I have arranged the connectors to easily disconnect there. With all the extra wires I would have needed two plugs, maybe three at the headlight.

Good point on the fuses. I did consider adding a fuse block but found there is not a lot places to install it without running a lot of extra wires - probably the best is in the headlight. I did end up with two inline fuses - one at battery and one on the ign coil. I can always add a few more. Remember to carry spares.

So far only electrical issue was accidentally pulling a group earth to the LED idiot lights out when I had the headlight open - it just needed the extra push to click it in.

Having the LED running lights during the day has worked well - very visible even in sunshine. The turn signals are well worth it too - peace of mind - be seen.

The LED idiot generator light from the McDouglator works very well - I can see if the red light is on when I walk away, if I haven't turned the key off. The light also goes out when the engine is running/charging as designed.

 

[b'knighted]

I make a point of not putting a fuse at the ign coil. I really don’t want anything to switch my ignition off while I may be relying on the engine for my safety. Similarly I hard wire between belt drive alternator and battery as I am informed that if the generated power has no connection to the battery the voltage will exceed safe limits and burn out the alternator.

 

[timetraveller]

Also if you have one of the Iskra ones with the external regulator then if you do not have a connection to earth from the regulator is will charge flat out and either boil the battery or blow all the bulbs, or both.

 

[Oldhaven]

I used the headlight relays from Eastern Beaver in the shell. All prewired with socket and fuse.

Main

Eastern Beaver products and kits main page

www.easternbeaver.com

The loose LED is used for a daytime running light using the first position on the lighting switch.

I wish I was as organized as Jim. I didn’t make even a sketch to remind me what is where. . I am really impressed by his wiring diagram and may use it if/when I add turn signals

 

[Monkeypants]

Not sure which alternator b'knighted has, but I had the same concern about operating an Alton open circuit, as in burned fuse.
Here is Paul Hamons answer.
I kept the fuse in the Alternator output line.
"Your statement that « work being done whether a load is connected or not, so heat is produced » is wrong from my point of view.
A permanent magnet generator produces nothing when it is open. No current therefore no heat. The only « work » is to face the cogging effect of the permanent magnets but it is a low and purely mechanical load. Moreover it has no direct heating effect on coils.
This is basically why and how the switch type regulators such as SHINDENGEN SH775 are done. When you rev up the engine, they open the generator circuit to limit the voltage to the battery.
In opposition « shunt » (shorting) type regulators (the most common) shunt the circuit and regulate voltage that way (voltage drops down then) and « rewire » it normally to reach the requested charge voltage.

 

[b'knighted]

Having run a Fiat dynamo on the Knight I bought a very posh Mitsubishi alternator to be belt powered when an experienced VOC friend did a rebuild. Only when the time came to move the bike did he discover that the centre stand couldn’t be raised as there was an alternator was in the path of the linkage. A short 2CV alternator had to be fitted in its place.

 

[timetraveller]

Interesting!. Was it a genuine 'D' with two front heads? My alternators are also very close to the 'D' lifting handle if fitted to bikes with one front and one rear head. However, on bikes with the 'front' heads for and aft, the alternator has to be mounted to the right to clear the rear carb and is nowhere near the lifting handle.

 

[b'knighted]

It is a Knight but with earlier sandcast engine, hence B Knight, with front and rear heads. The alternator is not supported by the dynamo clamp but is probably bracketed off what would normally be the battery carrier tube. The battery is hung inside the rear cowl. This was done before Walkernators became available, but I do have one on a Comet and another ready to replace the home made belt drive system on the ex-Phil Primmer Shadow. Unbelievably the one for the Shadow was bought on eBay from someone who bought a rider's bike but was reverting to standard. If it ever got ridden, I’ll bet he then complained that the electrics weren't very good.