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Thinking about a 1952 Black Shadow
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<blockquote data-quote="peterg" data-source="post: 17398" data-attributes="member: 446"><p>Howdy Eric,</p><p> </p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">I have an email out to John Healey at Coventry Spares already for quoting for the stuff I know I will need. Is email the best way or does Coventry prefer a call direct via Phone? </span></span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em>He may have an email address but rarely checks it. I’d call when you’ve got something firm to order and parse out your questions carefully…totally good chap, but with that North Eastern pragmatism mean he doesn’t suffer fools gladly. His son screens incoming calls.</em></span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">About relining the brakes, who is the USA do you recommend for that job??</span></span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em>I have done both my Vins and all my Indians at an old timey blacksmith looking operation here in Memphis called Laycook, they’ve been around since 46 and specialize in clutches and brakes for the commercial/industrial trans industry. Don’t even mention the application, just plunk my box on the counter and a week and $8-10 a shoe later I have back the bonded linings to the length and width I specify for radiusing for very good fit. Softer than any you’ll source, they stop better and preserve your drums. Will get info if you like but think they can be Googled.</em></span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">BTW the Tires/tubes seem to be original from the 50's and kinda still hold air. The bike only has 7k miles indicated on her so is there any reason to hold onto the old rubber after replacement? i.e. for collector value?</span></span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><em>With an RFM change and 7K on the clock rear’s probably not and looks like you’ve got a 20 inch front for which the 3.0x20 Speedmaster was it. No DOT date on sidewall means made prior to 80ish. Even if essentially NOS like I installed 1/09 on my machine, wouldn’t run them, with so little contact patch and far better hysteresis on new rubber would fit that, I peeled mine off and threw them in the attic. </em></span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">About Tires if I am interested in riding the bike EVENTUALLY is there any consensus as to the best tire for handling and performance that will fit the original wheels. I really do not care if it looks period or if they ware out quickly I want a tire I can have faith in when I lean the bike over..</span></span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em>If a stock 20 on the front, it’s essentially a 3.0X20 Avon Speedmaster now repop’d and very pleasant in context with how you’ll likely end up riding this machine. If the rear’s original, that’s a 3.50x19 and lots more offerings, just got to ensure a happy balance grip wise. Though the Avon SM is the tire generally paired in this combo, be advised, they have decided ledge as they roll off the face onto the sidewall. Search the forums here for more pontification on the matter.</em></span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">What is the best way to check for frame straightness?? </span></span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em>String it and rig up brackets for your wheels to check vertical alignment with an angle finder, remove your fuel tank and look for wrinkles/paint blistering around headstock mounts to UFM. Carefully release of both front springs, shock and check for free range of motion with no binding which may indicate bent upper and/or lower fork links (corrosion not withstanding), these appear to be yield point as blades and fork stem are quite resilient.</em></span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">If I want to rebuild my generator/regulator what is the recommended shop for the work or can this been done in by me?</span></span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em>Don’t’ know if you have an original Miller or a later Lucas E3L but I’d send it to Doug as recommended and setup to fit an electronic regulator (PODtronics) regardless of your voltage selection. With an LED tailight conversion and a decent AGM battery, unless you plan to tour/ride extensively at night, this slightly modified stock setup can be very satisfactory. May want to save your money for other more perplexing challenges, like a clutch.</em> </span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">If I want to replace my generator/regulator is there an updated or improved version? If so are they sourced from the already mentioned suppliers?</span></span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em>Lots, from old Citreon car alternators on. Google Alton and the McDougulator.</em></span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">If I want to rebuild my mag what is the recommended shop for the work?</span></span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em>Doug can do, but you’re really at the fork in the road with this one. The Lucas can be fine, but you’ll have fiddly points adjusting at some point and then there’s that ATD. Though we’ve heard of some BTH issues of late, they are a set and forget item with superior start up voltage and consistent spark on each pot as essentially you have a generator creating voltage for secondary amplification by the coils, a la capacitive discharge. Think I’d scratch my chin for a spell on this decision, have lots of other items to do first and a BTH can be installed and setup in less than an hour when you get to this point.</em></span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="color: #3e3e3e">If replacing with a BTH what are the long term benefits / detriments? Are there any other options out there other then BTH for replacement?</span></span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Tahoma'"><em>Hey, this a Vincent, there’s always gonna be something else out there. But, by fitting a BTH, it's a set and forget item and you have a stand alone system that’ll get you home, no charging system necessary like other electronic ignitions. And, as a mag, it frees your charging system of that load as really, within the range of stock looking items, you're looking at 10amps to divvy out.</em> </span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">What are the advantages of the John H superb wiring harness?</span></span></span></p><p><span style="color: #3e3e3e"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'"><em>Heavier gauge, newer with no concerns for bodges/insulation break down and (dim memory), Vin, like Indian and others only ground to the frame, not directly the battery. John runs a dedicated headlight ground back to the RFM post and then the battery.</em></span></span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="peterg, post: 17398, member: 446"] Howdy Eric, [COLOR=#3e3e3e][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]I have an email out to John Healey at Coventry Spares already for quoting for the stuff I know I will need. Is email the best way or does Coventry prefer a call direct via Phone? [/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][I]He may have an email address but rarely checks it. I’d call when you’ve got something firm to order and parse out your questions carefully…totally good chap, but with that North Eastern pragmatism mean he doesn’t suffer fools gladly. His son screens incoming calls.[/I][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]About relining the brakes, who is the USA do you recommend for that job??[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][I]I have done both my Vins and all my Indians at an old timey blacksmith looking operation here in Memphis called Laycook, they’ve been around since 46 and specialize in clutches and brakes for the commercial/industrial trans industry. Don’t even mention the application, just plunk my box on the counter and a week and $8-10 a shoe later I have back the bonded linings to the length and width I specify for radiusing for very good fit. Softer than any you’ll source, they stop better and preserve your drums. Will get info if you like but think they can be Googled.[/I][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]BTW the Tires/tubes seem to be original from the 50's and kinda still hold air. The bike only has 7k miles indicated on her so is there any reason to hold onto the old rubber after replacement? i.e. for collector value?[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman][I]With an RFM change and 7K on the clock rear’s probably not and looks like you’ve got a 20 inch front for which the 3.0x20 Speedmaster was it. No DOT date on sidewall means made prior to 80ish. Even if essentially NOS like I installed 1/09 on my machine, wouldn’t run them, with so little contact patch and far better hysteresis on new rubber would fit that, I peeled mine off and threw them in the attic. [/I][/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]About Tires if I am interested in riding the bike EVENTUALLY is there any consensus as to the best tire for handling and performance that will fit the original wheels. I really do not care if it looks period or if they ware out quickly I want a tire I can have faith in when I lean the bike over..[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][I]If a stock 20 on the front, it’s essentially a 3.0X20 Avon Speedmaster now repop’d and very pleasant in context with how you’ll likely end up riding this machine. If the rear’s original, that’s a 3.50x19 and lots more offerings, just got to ensure a happy balance grip wise. Though the Avon SM is the tire generally paired in this combo, be advised, they have decided ledge as they roll off the face onto the sidewall. Search the forums here for more pontification on the matter.[/I][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]What is the best way to check for frame straightness?? [/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][I]String it and rig up brackets for your wheels to check vertical alignment with an angle finder, remove your fuel tank and look for wrinkles/paint blistering around headstock mounts to UFM. Carefully release of both front springs, shock and check for free range of motion with no binding which may indicate bent upper and/or lower fork links (corrosion not withstanding), these appear to be yield point as blades and fork stem are quite resilient.[/I][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]If I want to rebuild my generator/regulator what is the recommended shop for the work or can this been done in by me?[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][I]Don’t’ know if you have an original Miller or a later Lucas E3L but I’d send it to Doug as recommended and setup to fit an electronic regulator (PODtronics) regardless of your voltage selection. With an LED tailight conversion and a decent AGM battery, unless you plan to tour/ride extensively at night, this slightly modified stock setup can be very satisfactory. May want to save your money for other more perplexing challenges, like a clutch.[/I] [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]If I want to replace my generator/regulator is there an updated or improved version? If so are they sourced from the already mentioned suppliers?[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][I]Lots, from old Citreon car alternators on. Google Alton and the McDougulator.[/I][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]If I want to rebuild my mag what is the recommended shop for the work?[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][I]Doug can do, but you’re really at the fork in the road with this one. The Lucas can be fine, but you’ll have fiddly points adjusting at some point and then there’s that ATD. Though we’ve heard of some BTH issues of late, they are a set and forget item with superior start up voltage and consistent spark on each pot as essentially you have a generator creating voltage for secondary amplification by the coils, a la capacitive discharge. Think I’d scratch my chin for a spell on this decision, have lots of other items to do first and a BTH can be installed and setup in less than an hour when you get to this point.[/I][/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR] [SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman][COLOR=#3e3e3e]If replacing with a BTH what are the long term benefits / detriments? Are there any other options out there other then BTH for replacement?[/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Tahoma][I]Hey, this a Vincent, there’s always gonna be something else out there. But, by fitting a BTH, it's a set and forget item and you have a stand alone system that’ll get you home, no charging system necessary like other electronic ignitions. And, as a mag, it frees your charging system of that load as really, within the range of stock looking items, you're looking at 10amps to divvy out.[/I] [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]What are the advantages of the John H superb wiring harness?[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] [COLOR=#3e3e3e][FONT=Arial][I]Heavier gauge, newer with no concerns for bodges/insulation break down and (dim memory), Vin, like Indian and others only ground to the frame, not directly the battery. John runs a dedicated headlight ground back to the RFM post and then the battery.[/I][/FONT][/COLOR] [/QUOTE]
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Thinking about a 1952 Black Shadow
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