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General Chat (Vincent Related)
Thinking about a 1952 Black Shadow
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<blockquote data-quote="peterg" data-source="post: 17320" data-attributes="member: 446"><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">Howdy Eric,</span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">You go DUDE, congratulations! As a short term realist but long term optimist, I was root'n for you all the way but with necessary reservation as machines at this level of desirability when tossed into that gladiator pit of <em>on offer/for sale</em> in this age of instant communication have less predictable outcomes now than ever.....and seem to rarely end up in the right hands from an enthusiast's point of view. </span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">Required transaction hyperventilation over, so here we go. I’ve gotten my titles over the last 20 years through Joe Holmes at <u><a href="http://www.its-titles.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue"><u>ITS</u></span></a></u>.So painless, I even get them for bikes for which titles were provided as I’d rather spend $100 and hold onto an original title issued 60 years ago. </span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">Anywho, you mentioned getting it up and running first over any leanings toward full blown resto/trailer queen, so I’d humbly suggest a few things. It’s been down so I’d put in on the lift and ensure it is completely straight. As a working bloke, whenever embarking on a project at this rarified monetary altitude, in the words of the bank robber in Dirty Harry, <em>I gots to know</em> - I’d do up a laundry list of the obvious missing/wrong parts and pieces even if you have no need/inclination of correcting them (carbs) now, so you’ll “know” what you got and can chart a path commensurate with your (in my case, invariably depleted post purchase) financial situation. It’s a cinch to get into mid 4 digits in parts on one even as complete as yours. Dave’s excellent .xls spreadsheet/factory spares list gotten <a href="http://www.vincent-hrd.co.uk/downloads/VinSparesHyperlinked.zip" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue"><u>here</u></span></a> is a superb platform to work from to which I added my task lists, notes, etc., and in a nod to Geeks, carried it around on jump drive in my pocket for quick consultation/modification/commiseration during my rebuilds. Our <u><a href="http://www.vincentspares.co.uk/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue"><u>VOC Spares scheme</u></span></a></u>will give you a pricing reference points and much can be conveniently sourced here from John Healey at Coventry Spares.</span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px">As for mechanical wear items, that missing kicker assembly , inherent motor/trans ills not withstanding and common sense tire/cable stuff, I’d reline the brake shoes with modern materials (bonded), plan on some clutch issues, steering head bearings, rebuilding/replacing your generator/regulator, certainly rebuilding that mag (or replacing with a BTH) and – your bravery a determinant here – disassemble your fork assembly for very close inspection/replacement of bushings/spindles where required for piece of mind and at a minimum disassemble your shocks and perform Richardson mod. John H makes a superb wiring harness which even if yours is seemingly a perfectly preserved original, I’d shelve it and use one of his. As that RFM has been changed, you may have some unresolved bearing setup issues, I’d disconnect both spring boxes/shock from it, check for free movement, but most importantly, excessive end play (with revitalized forks - tank slapper insurance). Same goes with the wheel bearings. If anyone’s removed a brake plate from the assembly and managed have a bearing fall off, invariably in a snit getting it all back together they may get their shims stacked incorrectly.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span style="font-size: 12px">From the standpoint of a quick semi good indication of general motor health beyond the usual determinants, removing the timing cover can be most revealing. With a small mirror you can view the usual culprits, cams/lifters, verify your idler gear (aluminum, likely original and possibly suspect), check for crank end play and with pistons restrained by stops in either spark plug hole check for any obvious lash in your rod bearings as you can view flywheel movement through a port at the bottom of the case. Removing the four inspection caps facing you will enable you to check your rocker condition with the adjusters slackened off, the least preferred discovery being the rocker bearings loose in the heads. If your motor proves healthy, for added insurance, I’d remove the clutch/primary cover to very closely inspect your chain tensioner for any cracks at the two mounting ears and the usual primary chain check as one thrown or dropping the tensioner blade can ruin your case. </span></span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="peterg, post: 17320, member: 446"] [SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]Howdy Eric,[/FONT][/SIZE] [SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]You go DUDE, congratulations! As a short term realist but long term optimist, I was root'n for you all the way but with necessary reservation as machines at this level of desirability when tossed into that gladiator pit of [I]on offer/for sale[/I] in this age of instant communication have less predictable outcomes now than ever.....and seem to rarely end up in the right hands from an enthusiast's point of view. [/FONT][/SIZE] [SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]Required transaction hyperventilation over, so here we go. I’ve gotten my titles over the last 20 years through Joe Holmes at [U][URL="http://www.its-titles.com/"][COLOR=blue][U]ITS[/U][/COLOR][/URL][/U].So painless, I even get them for bikes for which titles were provided as I’d rather spend $100 and hold onto an original title issued 60 years ago. [/FONT][/SIZE] [SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]Anywho, you mentioned getting it up and running first over any leanings toward full blown resto/trailer queen, so I’d humbly suggest a few things. It’s been down so I’d put in on the lift and ensure it is completely straight. As a working bloke, whenever embarking on a project at this rarified monetary altitude, in the words of the bank robber in Dirty Harry, [I]I gots to know[/I] - I’d do up a laundry list of the obvious missing/wrong parts and pieces even if you have no need/inclination of correcting them (carbs) now, so you’ll “know” what you got and can chart a path commensurate with your (in my case, invariably depleted post purchase) financial situation. It’s a cinch to get into mid 4 digits in parts on one even as complete as yours. Dave’s excellent .xls spreadsheet/factory spares list gotten [URL="http://www.vincent-hrd.co.uk/downloads/VinSparesHyperlinked.zip"][COLOR=blue][U]here[/U][/COLOR][/URL] is a superb platform to work from to which I added my task lists, notes, etc., and in a nod to Geeks, carried it around on jump drive in my pocket for quick consultation/modification/commiseration during my rebuilds. Our [U][URL="http://www.vincentspares.co.uk/"][COLOR=blue][U]VOC Spares scheme[/U][/COLOR][/URL][/U]will give you a pricing reference points and much can be conveniently sourced here from John Healey at Coventry Spares.[/FONT][/SIZE] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]As for mechanical wear items, that missing kicker assembly , inherent motor/trans ills not withstanding and common sense tire/cable stuff, I’d reline the brake shoes with modern materials (bonded), plan on some clutch issues, steering head bearings, rebuilding/replacing your generator/regulator, certainly rebuilding that mag (or replacing with a BTH) and – your bravery a determinant here – disassemble your fork assembly for very close inspection/replacement of bushings/spindles where required for piece of mind and at a minimum disassemble your shocks and perform Richardson mod. John H makes a superb wiring harness which even if yours is seemingly a perfectly preserved original, I’d shelve it and use one of his. As that RFM has been changed, you may have some unresolved bearing setup issues, I’d disconnect both spring boxes/shock from it, check for free movement, but most importantly, excessive end play (with revitalized forks - tank slapper insurance). Same goes with the wheel bearings. If anyone’s removed a brake plate from the assembly and managed have a bearing fall off, invariably in a snit getting it all back together they may get their shims stacked incorrectly.[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]From the standpoint of a quick semi good indication of general motor health beyond the usual determinants, removing the timing cover can be most revealing. With a small mirror you can view the usual culprits, cams/lifters, verify your idler gear (aluminum, likely original and possibly suspect), check for crank end play and with pistons restrained by stops in either spark plug hole check for any obvious lash in your rod bearings as you can view flywheel movement through a port at the bottom of the case. Removing the four inspection caps facing you will enable you to check your rocker condition with the adjusters slackened off, the least preferred discovery being the rocker bearings loose in the heads. If your motor proves healthy, for added insurance, I’d remove the clutch/primary cover to very closely inspect your chain tensioner for any cracks at the two mounting ears and the usual primary chain check as one thrown or dropping the tensioner blade can ruin your case. [/SIZE][/FONT] [/QUOTE]
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Thinking about a 1952 Black Shadow
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