Splitting an o-ring for assembling and glue it with instant glue is a bit of a gamble, not easy to align ends perfectly. Also the glue is a bit harder than the NBR so I don´t do that for sealing jobs.
The through bolts don´t get sealant under heads - hate sticky fingers. Instead for those places and more so in the primary around the gearbox I tidied up the mangled recesses with a flat countersink for a nice finish. The nuts made from hexagon rods are loctited on 8 mm studs. Then the nuts got a flat taper on underside , around 5 degrees from flat. So they got sort of shallow taper seat on the countersunk through holes for sealing the lot. Maybe in the photo you can just see some taper. The stainless rods were replaced before fitting them by titanium rods with rolled M 8 threads - because I can - and some weight saving for my old age.
Alu pushrods were standard on postwar Horexes and from /5 series on BMW twins. Steel pushrods in an all alu engine are a bit off-logic as all you can do with cold engine is set it for zero clearance. You cannot have negative clearance without roller followers. So when hot the valves will have some clearance from engine heat growth - or rather more than what you´d like. With alu pushrods you start with a little clearance cold for safety and see if it is sufficient in hot condition. Else you do a bit more clearance, but as long as some valve ticker is there in hot engine it´ll be allright.
It is very unlikely that we will do lots of kilometers once the B Rapides will finally see the roads after more than 30 years when I started the reconstruction of Argentinian old iron. But my brain defect is once I see something I feel I could do better I cannot keep me from messing around on my machines.
Vic