Hi, can anyone tell me how the stop valve works as my engine is filling the sump at least half a pint by the next day, my engine has only done just over 2 thousand miles. Ive put an anti sump valve on for now but dont like this set up looks terrible on a new bike Ash.
E: Engine stop valve assembly
- Thread starter ash1960
- Start date
If I understand the question then there is not a stop valve. The device which I think you refer to is there so that the front end can be taken away and the main oil feed disconnected without the oil tank draining out over the floor and/or the rear of the bike. The thing which should stop the sump filling up is the fit of the oil pump plunger in its housing. A very sloppy fitting pump can allow oil to drain past. That can be slop of the pump housing in the crank case or of the plunger in its housing. If that is not what you are referring to then please let us know which part, and or where it is, so that we can rethink a reply.
If it's not a rude question, who assembled the motor, and have you checked the operation of the oil pump? The fitting of the oil pump is something that must be done with care.
first thing is check the plunger fit in the pump.......I have found cases where the pump/plunger as not a matched set, so this will cause oil to readily bypass the pump........next up is usually damage to the pump sleeve bore.......not so easy to fix.
I was told that some of the Maughan's 2 start pumps would allow wet sumping fairly quickly. I have one like that on the 1360. Because they are expensive and can be difficult to change, I decided to add a valve with a safety. I knew that would solve the problem whereas installing another new 2 start pump might not make any difference, or could even make things worse.
The valve uses the ignition key to turn oil on and off so there is zero chance of starting the bike without oil flow.
As far as cosmetics, I don't even notice it on there.
Glen
The valve uses the ignition key to turn oil on and off so there is zero chance of starting the bike without oil flow.
As far as cosmetics, I don't even notice it on there.
Glen
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Over the past few years, I have purchased 4 new pumps. The clearance between the bronze sleeve and plunger definitely varies.
The Maughan's ones I've used for years are a perfect sliding fit.......like a Gudgeon pin in a piston......I'm not sure why one that is a sloppy fit is of any benefit at all.......Unless the sleeve is a tight fit in the bore of the case.......seen that a few times, but passing a one-inch reamer up the bore of the empty case first usually takes care of that......the new sleeve should in theory press into the case even cold........Also I use a good coating of Loctite Aviation 3.......that brown stuff in a small bottle with the brush in the cap.......a non hardening sealant perfect for oil pumps and water pumps........this helps not only with assembly, but helps to seal the sleeve against a damaged bore in the case which is very common on these engines.
Iirc there was a batch or two of the Maughans 2 start pumps that had the problem of allowing wet sumping. That situation may be rectified by now as Maughans is a very good company.
I believe the problem was only with the 2 start pumps. The standard pumps from Maughan worked fine.
Terry wanted the 2 start pump used with the big hot rodded engine to aid in cooling.
For a standard engine or even a somewhat hotrodded 998, the regular pump seems to be a better choice.
Glen
I believe the problem was only with the 2 start pumps. The standard pumps from Maughan worked fine.
Terry wanted the 2 start pump used with the big hot rodded engine to aid in cooling.
For a standard engine or even a somewhat hotrodded 998, the regular pump seems to be a better choice.
Glen