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Series D timing advice

macvette

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
I am running my bike in and decided to check the ignition timing. I have set the timing 34 degrees on full advance as per the books, holding the rotor arm against the advance stops and setting the distributor so that the points open at this point. Out of curiosity, I checked firing point of the rear cylinder with the plug earthed to the engine and ignition on. It appears to be 5 degrees ATD. Any sugestions?

Thanks Mac
 
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Albervin

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VOC Member
Are you not supposed to set the timing on No.1 cylinder i.e. the rear? Sounds like something does not line up properly. Are the ignition items new, used? Who installed the ignition? I assume that is 5º ATD on full retard, so are you using the correct distributor/rotor? Sounds like a real chance of a major kick back so watch the ankle.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hello Mac, I think your Dist' is worn, I have a D type, And when I was running 24 of advance on 5 star petrol and 12 to one pistons I put a bit of rubber tube over the shaft and under the bob weights, I think there is a bit too much retard on the standard setup, Still use it now with 36 advance, Good luck Bill.
 

macvette

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
Hi
Standard dizzy, standard points ignition. I hope it's not worn, it was rebuilt by Price productions and it is set using the rear cylinder and only has 700 miles on it.

Mac
 

John Appleton

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Mac, we had a rebuilt distributor that had a 15 degree difference!! If you split your 5 degrees between front and rear you will be closer than lots of mags. and, to be fair, 5 degrees of crank shaft is only 2 1/2 degrees of distributor cam which does not leave a lot of room for error.

John
 
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Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hello Mac.Maybe it's a bad Cam, Is it an old one or new? I still think a bit of tube will work. Cheers Bill.
 

macvette

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
The dizzy should be as new, it was the original, rebuilt as is the rest of the bike. I don't understand the rubber tube bit can you explain and how do I split the difference ? I've set the rear cylinder to fire at TDC just now.

Thanks Mac
 
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Deroberson

Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Mac

Interesting that you are going through this, I too am trying to get the timing set correctly on my D. When you say "34 degrees as per the books", just curious which book for reference?

I set mine for 38 degrees but something is still amiss, I have a little kickback at start up and have retarded the distributor fully. The bike will crank and run fairly smoothly but once at speed and under a little load, just is not running quite right.

Measured the points breaking with a ammeter and the distributor shaft, (as being looked at from the left side of the bike) fully advanced or rotated against springs counter clockwise. Does all this sound correct?

Dave
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
hello Mac, The rubber tube just stops the bob weights from closing all the way,If you take the back plate off, Remove the springs, pull the cam off and find a bit of thin tube to slide over the shaft, It won't make any differance to the advance, Only the retard, Make sure to mark everything so it go's back the same, Mine has been like it for 36 years, Cheers Bill.
 

Deroberson

Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
I have identified some wear issues in my distributor that may have prevented me getting back to full retard after advance, weak springs. The base was cracked as well. I will be looking at getting the distributor rebuilt.

Dave
 
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